Sharia as-Souq

Starting from the southern end, Sharia as-Souq appears very much like the tourist bazaars all over Egypt, with persistent traders trying to lure passers-by into their shops to buy T-shirts, perfume, spices, beaded galabiyyas (robes) and roughly carved copies of Pharaonic statues. But a closer look down side alleys and walking further north reveals more exotic elements, hinting at the markets south in Sudan and Africa.

Here traders sell Nubian talisman for good luck, colourful Nubian baskets and scull caps, Sudanese swords, African masques, and enormous stuffed crocodiles and desert creatures. This is also very much a living market, where Nubians from Elephantine Island and around Aswan shop for food and live produce, including fruit, vegetables, chickens and pigeons. Aswan is famous for the quality of its peanuts (fuul sudan), henna powder (sold in different qualities) and dried hibiscus flowers, used to make the much-loved local drink karkadeh. The pace is slow, particularly late afternoon, the air has a slight whiff of sandalwood and, as in ancient times, you may feel that Aswan is the gateway to Africa.