Restaurants in Alexandria
-
A
Samakmak
Owned by Zizi Salem, the retired queen of the Alexandrian belly-dancing scene, Samakmak is definitely one step up from the other fish eateries in the neighbourhood. The fish is as fresh as elsewhere, but customers flock to this place for its specials, including crayfish, marvellous crab tagen (stew cooked in a deep clay pot) and a great spaghetti with clams.
reviewed
-
B
Mohammed Ahmed
Under no circumstances should you miss this classic, the undisputed king and still champion of fuul and ta’amiyya, filled day and night with locals downing small plates of spectacularly good and cheap Egyptian standards. From the English menu, select your type of fuul ( iskandarani is good), add some ta’amiyya, and choose a few accompanying salads, such as tahini, banga (beetroot) or pickles – then, sit back and wait for the magic to happen.
reviewed
-
C
Hood Gondol Seafood
When Alexandrians need a quick fix of delicious, fresh and ridiculously cheap seafood, they make a beeline for this local favourite near the Bibliotheca Alexandria. A massive plate of mixed seafood, including prawns, calamari, spicy clams and fried fish. There's no menu and little English is spoken here, just turn up, point to the trays of fresh fish lining the downstairs display and find yourself a seat. It's located down an unmarked alley; ask for directions as everyone knows it by name.
reviewed
-
D
Fish Market
Well-heeled locals will argue that this is the best place to eat in town, and who are we to argue with local knowledge? It's definitely the most upmarket fish restaurant in Alexandria, with prime views over the Eastern Harbour and flashy silver service where you can pick your own seafood and have it cooked to perfection in the way you desire. The same owners run the Tikka Grill, on the floor below, which offers a similar dining experience for the meat-atarians among you.
reviewed
-
E
Ahwa al-Hind
during summer the whole 20km length of the Corniche from Ras at-Tin to Montazah becomes one great strung-out ahwa (coffeehouse). You have to squeeze through a passageway almost blocked by clothes stalls to find this one in the central courtyard of the big, battered old building on the corner where Midan Orabi meets Midan Tahrir. It's scruffy, but the setting bristles with atmosphere and is the perfect place to while away a hot afternoon or lazy evening.
reviewed
-
Abo Faris
An excellent eatery specialising in Syrian shwarma, a mouth-watering concoction of spicy grilled lamb or chicken slathered in garlicky mayonnaise and pickles, rolled up inside roasted flatbread. A full menu is available, and seating is indoors or in a garden patio (you can also do takeaway). It’s about 500m before the Carrefour City Centre Mall, on the left as you’re coming from the city. Most taxi drivers will know it.
reviewed
-
F
Coffee Roastery
The hip young things that flock here to listen to MTV blaring on the telly don't seem to mind that the English proverbs around the place make little sense. It's one of the more ritzy places in town, bedecked in dark-wood trim and with a food menu that could have been lifted from an English pub: burgers, steak and fries dominate the choices among token references to Egyptian fare. It also does great coffee, milk shakes and fresh juices.
reviewed
-
G
Qadoura
This is one of Alexandria’s most authentic fish restaurants. Pick your fish from a huge ice-packed selection, which usually includes sea bass, red and grey mullet, bluefish, sole, squid, crab and prawns, and often a lot more. Food is served at tables in the narrow street. A selection of mezze is served with all orders (don’t hope for a menu). Most fish is around E£40 to E£80 per kilo, prawns E£180 per kilo.
reviewed
-
H
Malek es-Seman
By day this is a small courtyard clothes market, by night it’s an open-air restaurant doing one thing and doing it very, very well: quail. Birds are served grilled or stuffed; both ways are delicious, but we especially like the slightly charred and crispy flavour of the grilled. Orders come with bread and six different salads. It’s a bit hard to find, but look for a painted sign with a small bird. Serves beer.
reviewed
-
I
Awalad Abdou
With only minor concessions made to hygiene, this uber budget place is nonetheless a smashing find. In two shakes of a lamb’s tail, these guys will whip up micro sandwiches with a scrumptious, meat-centric filling of your choice. Just point to what looks good and quaff it down while standing at the counter. It can be a challenge to find – there’s no sign, so look for a small shop with hanging cured meats, near Sharia Attareen.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
J
Elite
Near the Cinema Metro, this is one of those Alexandrian time-warp affairs. Cut from the same cloth as an old US diner, it seems sealed in a 1950s bubble, now almost slipping back in time. The menu traverses from the oriental to the occidental and tries to cover everything in between, though it's best to stick to the simple things. The big, street-facing windows make it a great place for an afternoon beer.
reviewed
-
K
Abu Ashraf
One of this street’s fish specialists. Make your selection from the day’s catch then take a seat under the green awning and watch it being cooked. Sea bass stuffed with garlic and herbs is a speciality, as is the creamy prawn kishk (casserole). Price is determined by weight and type of fish, ranging from grey mullet at E£40 per kilo to jumbo prawns at E£150 per kilo.
reviewed
-
L
Gad
Egypt’s answer to (although a vast improvement on) McDonald’s, this chain of absurdly popular takeaway joints has people flocking (think gadflies) day and night. It serves a huge range of filled sandwiches, kebabs, ta’amiyya and mouth-watering shwarma. There’s another branch on Sharia Mohammed Azmy Tossoun.
reviewed
-
M
Abu Nasr
This unusually tidy place serves good, filling kushari. If you find it lacks mojo, throw in a dash of the vinegar and spicy red sauce it’s served with. If it’s still a bit plain for your taste, order sides of tahini and banga and chuck them in too. There’s no sign in English, so look for the gleaming gold bowls.
reviewed
-
N
Athineos
As good a place as any to start. Grab your first coffee of the day at Athineos. This place lives and breathes nostalgia. The cafe part on the Midan Ramla side still has its original ’40s fittings, and pastries that taste like they’ve been sitting around since then. Come for the period character, skip the food.
reviewed
-
O
China House
Atop the Cecil Hotel, this highly recommended restaurant serves scrumptious Asian food beneath a tent with dangling lanterns and stunning views over the harbour. The ambience is breezy, the chicken dumplings and grilled beef with garlic first-rate, and the banana fritters unmissable. Beer and Egyptian wine are served.
reviewed
-
P
Al-Shark
Extremely popular Egyptian eatery with traditional dishes, such as Egyptian baked macaroni, rice with gizzards, fatta (dish involving rice and bread soaked in a garlicky-vinegary sauce) with mutton and grilled kebab by the kilo. Simple surroundings and quick service. There's a takeaway and sit-down area.
reviewed
-
Cordon Rouge
Lively bar-restaurant in a contemporary setting, popular with Alexandrians and expats who prop up the bar and chat to the cool barman, or grab a bite at the Mediterranean-style restaurant. The international menu focuses on salads, pasta dishes and grills. A live DJ pumps up the volume on Thursday night.
reviewed
-
Q
El-Sheikh Wafik
This unassuming and breezy corner cafe has a secret – the best dessert in town. You can get the usual ice cream in several flavours, but the real treats are Egyptian classics such as couscousy (E£8) – a yummy mix of couscous, shredded coconut, nuts, raisins and sugar, topped with hot milk.
reviewed
-
R
Abaza Restaurant
This hole-in-the-wall serves straight-ahead kofta (mincemeat and spices grilled on a skewer) and other grilled meats in a little upstairs room with a red carpet and single table. There’s no sign in English, so look out for the chickens spit-roasting in a metal grill at the front.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
S
Trianon
Trianon was a favourite haunt of the Greek poet Cavafy, who worked in offices on the floor above. Stop here to admire the 1930s grandeur of its sensational ornate ceiling and grab one of its decent continental-style breakfasts.
reviewed
-
T
Housnay Grill
If you're a little fished out in Anfushi, Housnay Grill, opposite Abu Ashraf, is a semi-outdoor restaurant specialising in tasty grilled chicken, kebabs and other meats, served with the usual triumvirate of vegetables, salad and rice.
reviewed
-
Hosny Grill
If you’re a little fished out in Anfushi, Hosny Grillhraf, is a semi-outdoor restaurant specialising in tasty grilled chicken, kebabs and other meats, served with the usual triumvirate of vegetables, salad and rice.
reviewed
-
U
Vinous
Vinous is an old-school patisserie with more grand art deco styling than you can poke a puff pastry at, but secretly we love it for the period scales labelled with the ‘Just’ brand.
reviewed
-
V
Sultan Hussein
One of our favourite Alexandrian ahwas, this is a good, no-nonsense place with first-rate sheesha. It's popular with chess players and has a separate family area where women can sit unharassed.
reviewed