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Abdeen Palace
Begun in 1863 and employing Europe's most lavish architects and designers, Abdeen Palace was a centrepiece of Khedive Ismail's plan for a modern Cairo, inspired by Paris' recent makeover; the khedive even called in mastermind French planner Baron Haussmann as a consultant. He wanted the palace finished for the 1869 opening of the Suez Canal, to impress visiting dignitaries, but its 500 rooms weren't completed until 1874.
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Al-Azhar Mosque
Founded in AD 970 as the centrepiece of newly created Fatimid Cairo, the Al-Azhar Mosque is one of Cairo's earliest mosques and its sheikh is the highest theological authority for Egyptian Muslims. Its university was established in AD 988, and claims to be the world's oldest surviving educational institution (a claim disputed by the Kairaouine Mosque and University in Fez, Morocco). Students are now taught in various campuses around the country.
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Al-Fath Mosque
On the south side of Midan Ramses is Cairo's pre-eminent orientation aid, Al-Fath Mosque. Completed in the early 1990s, the mosque's minaret is visible from just about anywhere in central and Islamic Cairo.
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Bab al-Futuh
The square-towered Bab an-Nasr (Gate of Victory) and the rounded Bab al-Futuh were built in 1087 as the two main northern entrances to the walled Fatimid city of Al-Qahira. Walk along the outside and you'll see what an imposing bit of military architecture the whole thing is.
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Bab Zuweila
Built at the same time as the northern gates (10th century), beautiful Bab Zuweila is the only remaining southern gate of medieval Al-Qahira. Visitors may climb the ramparts, where some intriguing exhibits about the gate's history are in place. The two minarets atop the gate, also open to visitors, offer one of the best available views of the area.
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Beit el-Suhaymi
Islamic Cairo's finest example of the traditional family mansions built throughout the city from Mamluk times to the 19th century has a typically plain facade, but once through the tunnel-like entrance you emerge into a beautiful inner courtyard. If you only shell out for one Islamic monument, this should be it.
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Beit Zeinab al-Khatoun
Leaving the Al-Azhar Mosque, turn left and then left again to reach an alley squeezed between the southern wall of the mosque and a row of tiny shops housed in the vaults of a 15th-century merchants' building. At the top of this road lies Beit Zeinab al-Khatoun, a restored Ottoman-era house with a rooftop affording superb views of the surrounding minaret-studded skyline.
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Ben Ezra Synagogue
Egypt's oldest synagogue dates from the 9th century. In the 12th century, the synagogue was restored by rabbi Abraham Ben Ezra. Tradition marks this as the spot where the prophet Jeremiah gathered the Jews in the 6th century after Nebuchadnezzar had destroyed the Jerusalem temple. The adjacent spring is supposedly where the pharaoh's daughter found Moses in the reeds, and where Mary drew water to wash Jesus.
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Blue Mosque
The Blue Mosque, built in 1347, gets its popular name from the combination of blue-grey marble on the exterior and the flowery Ottoman tiling, not applied until 1652, inside. The minaret affords an excellent view of the Citadel, while over to the east, just behind the mosque, you can see the remains of Saladin's city walls, being excavated as part of the Al-Azhar Park project.
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Cairo Opera House
Off the west side of Midan Saad Zaghloul , the well-groomed Gezira Exhibition Grounds are dominated by the Cairo Opera House . Built in 1988 with money from Japan, the building is a modern take on traditional Islamic design.
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Cairo Tower
North of the Cairo Opera House and south of the Al-Zuhreya Gardens is the Cairo Tower. Completed in 1961 and resembling a 185m-high wickerwork tube, the tower was apparently built as a thumb to the nose at the Americans, who had given Nasser the money used for its construction to buy US arms. After the Pyramids it's the city's most famous landmark. The 360-degree views from the top are excellent; clearest in the early morning or late afternoon.
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Church of St Sergius
This church, the oldest inside the walls with 3rd- and 4th-century pillars, is said to be built over a cave where Joseph, Mary and the newly born infant Jesus sheltered after fleeing to Egypt to escape persecution from King Herod of Judea, who had embarked upon a 'massacre of the first born'. The cave (now a crypt) in question is reached by descending steps to the right of the altar, but it's been flooded for some time now.
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Citadel
Sprawling over a limestone spur on the eastern edge of the city, the Citadel was home to Egypt's rulers for some 700 years. Their legacy is a collection of three very different mosques, several palaces (housing some underwhelming museums) and a couple of terraces with city views. Admission includes entry to all the museums within the Citadel.
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Dahshur
South of Saqqara in a quiet bit of desert, Dahshur is an impressive field of 4th- and 12th-dynasty pyramids. The site was an off-limits military zone until mid-1996, remains free of large tour buses. Although the rhomboidal Bent Pyramid can only be admired from outside, the interior of the wonderful Red Pyramid is open to visitors.
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Gami' al-Azhar
Founded in AD 970 as the centrepiece of newly created Fatimid Cairo, the Al-Azhar Mosque is one of Cairo's earliest mosques and its sheikh is the highest theological authority for Egyptian Muslims. Its university was established in AD 988, and claims to be the world's oldest surviving educational institution (a claim disputed by the Kairaouine Mosque and University in Fez, Morocco).
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Giza Plateau
It can be a bit of a shock to visit the Giza Plateau and realise that the sandy mound that's home to the pyramids is actually plonked in the middle of the congested city suburb of Giza. There are currently two entrances: the main entrance is via a continuation of Pyramids Rd (Sharia al-Haram) at the foot of the Great Pyramid of Khufu and the secondary entrance is via the village of Nazlet as-Samaan, below the Sphinx.
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Great Pyramid of Khufu
The oldest pyramid in Giza and the largest in Egypt, the Great Pyramid of Khufu stood 146m high when it was completed in/around 2570 BC. After 46 centuries its height has been reduced by 9m. About 2.3 million limestone blocks, reckoned to weigh on average about 2.5 tonnes each, were used in the construction.
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Hanging Church
Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Hanging Church, which is still in use, is called the Hanging or Suspended Church as it is built on top of the Water Gate of Roman Babylon. Steep stairs lead from the forecourt to a 19th-century façade topped by twin bell towers. Beyond is a small inner courtyard, usually filled with sellers of taped liturgies and videos of the Coptic pope, Shenouda III.
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Italian Insurance building
Sharia Qasr el-Nil boasts some particularly fine architecture, notably the Italian Insurance building .
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Khanqah of Sultan Inal
The 1456 Khanqah of Sultan Inal is beautiful, thanks to restoration work, but not always open.
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Khanqah-Mausoleum of Farag Ibn Barquq
Built by a son of Sultan Barquq, whose great madrassa and mausoleum stand on Bein al-Qasreen. Completed in 1411 the khanqah is a fortresslike building with high, sheer façades and twin minarets and domes. In the courtyard, monastic cells lead off the arcades. Two tomb chambers - one for women, one for men - are each topped with domes; their ceilings are painted in mesmerising red-and-black geometric patterns.
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Madrassa & Mausoleum of An-Nasir Mohammed
Built in 1304 by a Mamluk sultan both despotic and exceedingly accomplished. The Gothic doorway was plundered from a church in Acre (now Akko, Israel) when An-Nasir and his army ended Crusader domination there in 1290 - note how the word 'Allah' has been inscribed at the point of the arch. The lacy pattern on the carved stucco minaret, a North African style, reveals more foreign influence.
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Madrassa & Mausoleum of Barquq
Barquq seized power in 1382, when Egypt was reeling from plague and famine; his Sufi school was completed four years later. Enter through the bold black-and-white marble portal into a vaulted passageway. To the right, the inner court has a colourful ceiling supported by four porphyry Pharaonic columns. Barquq's daughter is buried in the splendid domed tomb chamber; the sultan himself preferred to rest in the Northern Cemetery, surrounded by Sufi sheikhs.
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Madrassa & Mausoleum of Qalaun
Built in just 13 months, the 1279 Madrassa & Mausoleum of Qalaun is both the earliest and the most splendid of the three buildings on this street. It was still closed for restoration at the time of research. The mausoleum, on the right, is a particularly intricate assemblage of inlaid stone and stucco, patterned with stars and floral motifs and lit by stained-glass windows.
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Midan Tahrir
With half a dozen major arteries converging, Midan Tahrir is the fulcrum of modern-day Cairo, and as a result the site of some serious traffic and pedestrian jams. But the square is one of the few central spaces that isn't hemmed in by buildings and overpasses, making it an excellent spot to have a look around and orient yourself.
