Dahshur

Lonely Planet review

South of Saqqara in a quiet bit of desert, Dahshur is an impressive field of 4th- and 12th-dynasty pyramids. The site was an off-limits military zone until mid-1996, remains free of large tour buses. Although the rhomboidal Bent Pyramid can only be admired from outside, the interior of the wonderful Red Pyramid is open to visitors.

Many cluey travellers are choosing to visit Dahshur instead of the Giza Plateau for three reasons: the pyramid is just as impressive as its counterparts at Giza, the site is much more peaceful and the entry fee here is significantly cheaper.

There were originally 11 pyramids at Dahshur, although only the two Old Kingdom ones (the Bent and Red Pyramids) remain intact. Of the three Middle Kingdom pyramid complexes built by Amenemhat II (1922-1878 BC), Sesostris III (1874-1855 BC) and his son Amenemhat III (1855-1808 BC), only the oddly shaped Black Pyramid of Amenemhat III is worth a look.

The simplest way to visit Dahshur is as part of a tour to Saqqara and Memphis. Alternatively, you could hire a taxi and cover Abu Sir, Memphis and Saqqara on the way.