Entertainment in Cairo
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Al-Tannoura Egyptian Heritage Dance Troupe
Egypt’s only Sufi dance troupe – far more raucous and colourful than white-clad Turkish dervishes – puts on a mesmerising performance at the Wikala of Al-Ghouri. It’s a great opportunity to see one of the medieval spaces in use; arrive about an hour ahead to secure a seat.
reviewed
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Simonds
The recent overhaul of this century-old French-style cafe has divided locals: some say that all the faded charm has been thoroughly sterilised, while others welcome the fresh coat of paint and bold new look. Whatever your opinion, at least the coffee is still good.
reviewed
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Makan
The Egyptian Centre for Culture & Art runs this intimate space dedicated to traditional music. Don’t miss the Mazaher ensemble, performing the traditional women’s zar, a sort of musical trance and healing ritual (usually Wednesday, 9pm; E£20).
reviewed
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Topkapi
Tucked below the street opposite the Four Seasons Nile Plaza and behind a moored restaurant boat, this mellow Nileside hangout is easy to miss. Once down here, though, parked at a picnic bench and enjoying a sheesha and beer, it's easy to forget the traffic on the corniche. Inside the tentlike main room, a DJ spins hip international and Arabic tunes, and the menu (mains around £E25 to around £E42) is a quirky mix of local and Turkish flavours, with nightly specials.
It occasionally hosts special, ticket-only parties.
reviewed
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Horreyya
The Horreyya (there’s no real sign outside – look for a pale-pink facade and plywood over some of the windows) is one of the city’s classic ahwas. Here you stare dreamily through the sheesha smoke up at the high ceilings, down at the sawdust-strewn floor and out across a great cross-section of customers. Bonus: there are regular, ongoing chess matches here that attract some truly gifted players. Another bonus: beer is also available, but it’s only allowed to be quaffed in designated areas, far away from the boards.
reviewed
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Groppi’s
Distinctly not part of the new coffee wave, Groppi’s high point was more than 50 years ago when it was one of the most celebrated patisseries this side of the Mediterranean, as well as the preferred venue of ritzy society functions and concert dances. Today, the offerings are sadly poor and overpriced, and the tearoom reeks of cheap tobacco. The only hint of glitter remaining is in the beautiful mosaics around the doorway, but it nevertheless continues to appeal to hardcore nostalgia buffs.
reviewed
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Cairo Opera House
The opera complex has five halls. Performances by the Cairo Opera and the Cairo Symphony Orchestra tend to be held in its Main Hall while recitals, theatre and dance from Egypt and the rest of the world in its Small Hall, Gomhouria Theatre, Arab Music Institute and an open-air theatre. Jacket and tie are required by males for Main Hall performances (travellers have been known to borrow them from staff). Programs are available at the information window (right of the main entrance) .
reviewed
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Palmyra
The furthest on the ‘other end of the scale’ is Palmyra, a cavernous, dilapidated 1950s dancehall in an alley off Sharia 26th of July. It has a full Arab musical contingent, belly dancers who get better the more money is thrown at them, and an occasional singer or acrobat. In addition to the entrance fee, there’s a minimum charge of E£30, which basically covers a beer and a sheesha.
reviewed
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Sound and Light Show
The Sphinx narrates the somewhat cheesy sound and light show, but it’s neat to see the Pyramids so dramatically lit. Though there’s officially no student discount, you may be able to negotiate one. Schedules were as follows at the time of writing, but check the website for the latest. Note that this is the winter schedule; in summer shows start two hours later.
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After Eight
A funky, poorly ventilated venue that gets packed for everything from jazz trios to a Frank Sinatra impersonator to the wildly popular DJ Dina, who mixes James Brown, ’70s Egyptian pop and the latest cab-driver favourites; the clientele is equally eclectic. Reserve online (the website’s style in no way reflects the club’s).
reviewed
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Nile Pharaoh Dinner Cruises
A touristy but quite enjoyable option is to join the package tourists on one of the Nile cruises that are operated by the Mena House Oberoi hotel. These feature a floorshow with belly dancer and Egyptian singer. The meal is buffet-style international cuisine and the cruise takes two hours, from Giza to Downtown and back. Bookings are essential.
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Kaab Aaly
Formerly named High Heels (Kaab Aaly is the Arabic translation), this place is where local fashion victims come to strut their stuff. Occupying one of the hotel's Nileside outdoor terraces, it's a great place to enjoy a few drinks before heading out for the night. Its popular dining area has a decent Lebanese menu and juice bar.
reviewed
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Latex
The grande dame of Cairo’s club scene, the Nile Hotel’s basement party zone has changed hands several times over the years, but it still manages to keep up with the times. The music is always some variation on house, with the occasional Arabic pop hit thrown in, and the crowd is largely 20-somethings.
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Ash-Shams
Decorated with gilt stucco and kitschy faux-classical paintings, this colourful ahwa, in the courtyard alleyway between Sharia 26th of July and Tawfiqiyya Souq in Downtown, is busy with people from the nearby market and travellers from neighbouring hotels. Check your bill before paying.
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Le Grillon
Nominally a restaurant, this bizarre faux patio is all about beer, sheesha and gossip about politics and the arts scene. The illusion of outdoors is created with wicker furniture, fake vines and lots of ceiling fans. The entrance is in the back of a courtyard between two buildings.
reviewed
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Rive Gauche
Above the faded Zamalek Hotel, this newly refurbished club has a large dance floor and different DJs each night. There's also a very pleasant outdoor terrace to catch your breath after boogying. With less attitude than many other venues around town, it's a great spot to party.
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Beano's
This branch of an extremely popular chain serves good coffee, fresh juice and a range of snacks to scores of young Cairenes who come to catch up on the gossip, use the wireless Internet provided and listen to music videos. There's another branch in Heliopolis.
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Marriott Garden Café
The Marriott’s garden terrace is one of the most comfortable spots in town to relax over a drink. Big cane chairs, fresh air and good-quality wine and beer make it deservedly popular. You can eat here, too. The only downside is that it’s pricey.
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Le Tabasco
Perennially chic, Le Tabasco is a basement grotto with good electronica and moody lighting – most of the well-dressed, slightly older patrons are here to air-kiss and nibble on assorted international snacks. Reservations are a good idea.
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Club 35
If you go before midnight, the place doesn’t look all that promising, as it’s still in soft-jazz Asian-fusion-bistro mode. But later, the light show gets livelier, as does the music, and it rivals Latex for weekend crowds.
reviewed
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Bull's Eye
This faux-English pub is a big stop on the nightlife circuit - an unpretentious place to rest up on non-clubbing nights. It draws a mix of expats and Egyptians, with darts, karaoke Wednesdays and, if you're inclined, steak on the menu.
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Pub 28
The ex-pats in Zamalek are always coming and going, though this wooden, Brit-inspired drinking den has been serving up cold pints and whiskey on the rocks for quite some time, and certainly isn’t in danger of packing up anytime soon.
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Revolving Restaurant Lounge
Cheesy, yes, but there's a lot to be said for comfortable seats and knock-out views from the tallest structure for miles around. There's a pianist and you'll need to frock up. (The adjacent restaurant doesn't merit the money.)
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Nile Maxim
The best of the Nile cruise boats, run by the Marriott, is a relatively economical way to see a big-name star such as Randa or Asmahan, along with an à la carte menu. Go for the later sailing, as the show is less rushed.
reviewed
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Cairo Jazz Club
The city’s liveliest stage, with modern Egyptian folk, electronica, fusion and more seven nights a week, usually starting around 10pm. You must book a table ahead (online is easiest), and no one under 25 is admitted.
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