Things to do in The Oriente
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Misahullí Tours
Carlos Lastra runs one- to four-day tours on the Upper Río Napo for $35 per day. He’s experienced and well respected. Located on the plaza.
reviewed
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Café Tortuga
A Swiss-run riverfront spot where tourists plan their next move. Start the day with pancakes and fruit, crepes or espresso. Post–river trip, try a house specialty: beer floated with vanilla ice cream and fresh pineapple.
reviewed
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Parque Omaere
Walk past the kids plunging from the bridge into Río Puyo (think twice about joining them, because of polluted water) to Parque Omaere, less than 1km north of the city center. The ethnobotanical park offers guided tours (free with admission) of rainforest plants and indigenous dwellings, by mostly indigenous guides. The park is run by Shuar plant expert Teresa Shiki and her husband, Chris Canaday, an American biologist, author of Common Birds of Amazonian Ecuador and a font of knowledge about everything from jungle plants to ecological dry toilets. Teresa helped found and plant the park and prepares natural medicine. Stomach troubles? Ask for a cure for parasites made fr…
reviewed
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River People
River People, run by English guide Gary Dent, his sons and one of his daughters, is a top-notch outfitter that consistently gets rave reviews. Day trips to the Jatunyacu are $50. Trips also run the Quijos (Class IV) for $70 per day, the spectacular Jondachi and the very remote Hollin (in Sumaco-Galera), Class III/IV. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, try the Upper Hollin (Class V) between September and January, a $100, two-day trip. Guides have a minimum of eight years’ experience and speak English. Jungle camping, kayaking instruction and tailor-made trips are possible. Check out the Dent family’s café, Sticky Fingers.
reviewed
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Parque Nacional Yasuní
Yasuní is Ecuador’s largest mainland park, a massive 9620-sq-km section of wetlands, marshes, swamps, lakes, rivers and tropical rainforest. Its staggering biodiversity led Unesco to declare it an international biosphere reserve and it was established as a national park shortly after, in 1979. Because this pocket of life was untouched by the last ice age, a diverse pool of species has thrived here throughout the ages, including more than 500 bird species, some previously unknown elsewhere. Resident animals include some hard-to-see jungle wildlife, such as jaguars, harpy eagles, pumas and tapirs.
reviewed
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Parque Nacional Sangay
Most access to the park is from the north and west; access from the south and east is difficult. If starting from Macas, make your goal the alpine lakes, including the scenic Lagunas de Tinguichaca or the popular Sardina Yaca lagoons, which are teeming with wildlife. The volcano itself is inaccessible from here. Buses from Macas go to 9 de Octubre and San Vicente, a good starting point for most hikes. The small settlement of Purshi is the official entrance. It’s best to enter with a guide as trails are faint and require acute navigation and machete skills. Trips here are not for the uninitiated outdoors person.
reviewed
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Ríos Ecuador/Yacu Amu
Ríos Ecuador/Yacu Amu is a popular outfitter that offers trips for all tastes. Its most popular one is a $59 day trip down the Upper Napo (Class III), which runs daily. Trips down the Misahuallí (November to March) promise more thrills, with Class-IV rapids and a waterfall portage for $69 per person. Ask about other rivers and multiday trips. If you’re itching to go solo, a four-day white-water kayaking school (suitable for beginners) costs $330. The company is owned by Australian Steve Nomchong, who has been rafting and kayaking since the mid-’80s. English and French are spoken.
reviewed
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Cuevas de Jumandí
About 4km north of Archidona, you’ll find Cuevas de Jumandí. This cave system, the best known in the area, has three main branches that remain partly unexplored. Forgo the sketchy waterslides that dump into a river-water pool, and tread slowly (with a flashlight) to see stalactites, stalagmites and odd formations. Rubber boots and old clothes will serve you well. For thorough exploration, you’ll need a guide from Tena or on-site – ask guide companies in Tena for a customized day trip to include a trip to the caves.
reviewed
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Papangu-Atacapi Tours
An indigenous-run agency with a focus on community tourism. Trips go to Sarayaku and Mango Wasi (Quichua communities) and Cueva de los Tuyos (Shuar). Sarayacu (www.sarayaku.com/tourism) requires a rural charter flight ($125 round-trip per person) and the cost is $63 per day for a two-night trip. Other trips start at $40 per day. Guides are indigenous and speak Spanish and Quichua, and some of the fees go to participating communities. Highly recommended by travelers.
reviewed
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Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno
This beautiful reserve is a unique flooded rainforest covering 6034 sq km around Río Cuyabeno. Seasonally inundated with water, the flooded forest provides a home to diverse aquatic species and birdlife. Macrolobium and ceiba treetops thrust out from the underwater forest, creating a stunning visual effect. The blackwater rivers, rich in tannins from decomposing foliage, form a maze of waterways that feed the lagoons.
reviewed
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Amarongachi Tours
Offers various good-time jungle excursions. During its tours ($45 per person per day) you can stay with a family in the jungle, eat local food, go for hikes, climb up waterfalls, pan for gold and swim in the rivers. Amarongachi also operates the lovely Amarongachi and Shangrila cabins; the latter are on a bluff 100m above Río Anzu (a tributary of Río Napo) and feature great views of the river and more-mellow activities.
reviewed
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La Choza de Don Wilson
Almost everyone comes to this honky-tonk restaurant for an excellent fillet of trout and shots of aguardiente (sugarcane alcohol) to beat off the chills. You’ll find it at the juncture with the road to Termas de Papallacta. Cement-floor rooms out back are plain but clean (per person $15), with views of the village below. An enclosed hot pool is a bonus. Situated 40km along the Quito–Baeza road.
reviewed
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Otobo’s Amazon Safari
Operated by indigenous Huaorani Otobo and his family, this remote site on the Río Cononaco has platform tents and a thatched-roof lodge. Visitors hike in the Parque Nacional Yasuní with a native English-speaking guide, visit lagoons and a local village. The site can be reached by small plane from Shell/Puyo and motorized canoe, from Coca and the Vía Auca or by canoe only at a reduced price.
reviewed
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El Arca Rescue Center
Outside of the town of Cotundo, the El Arca Rescue Center houses a myriad rehabilitated animals in well-kept cages. Walk with a guide on the winding pathway to see hawks, parrots, anacondas, turtles, caiman and monkeys. For $1 more, swim in the tiny blue pool by the river. Travelers recommend El Arca over other animal-rescue centers in the area.
reviewed
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Kem Pery Tours
Leads tours to Bataburo Lodge, on the edge of Huaorani territory, about nine hours from Coca by boat and bus. Canoes motor into the remote Ríos Tiguino and Cononaco and tours combine wildlife viewing with cultural visits. There is a $20 fee to enter Huaorani territory. Guides are both bilingual and native. The agency also runs longer trips in the same area that involve camping.
reviewed
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Ricancie
Ten Quichua communities have joined to improve life for their 200 families through ecotourism. They offer adventure tours, bird- and animal-watching, demonstrations of healing plants, handicrafts and cooking for $45 per day. Guides speak Quichua and Spanish, but little English. The staff can arrange stays in local villages and know the local caves and petroglyphs. Recommended.
reviewed
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Marquis Grille
With white tablecloths, classical music and attentive service, this is the most formal restaurant for miles. Browse the Chilean wine list then choose from steamed tilapia, rich pastas and lobster. The ocelot skin, which offended many patrons, has been replaced by murals depicting regional mythology. If you’re lucky, the resident sloth will be ‘active.’
reviewed
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Maytos
Serves maitos (fish grilled in palm leaves) Huaorani-style, but with a garlicky twist. Wrapped in banana leaves and steamed over hot coals, the flavors steam into the moist, flaky fish, served alongside patacones (plantain fritters) and rice. Perfect with a tall, cold brew. Next to the Texaco station, just over 3km out of town.
reviewed
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Agua Extreme
Agua Extreme offers trips on the Jatunyacu for $70 per person, the Misahuallí for $75, and more. Travelers recommend river trips and the kayaking school. The company also guides day trips for horseback riding, caving and biking from Cotundo to Tena (bikes are available to rent). Guides speak Spanish and English.
reviewed
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Café bar Maravilla
This blue casita is all ambience, from the twinkling porch lights to the stuffed red-leather armchairs. It is a great place to chill, with tablas (cutting-boards) of meat and cheese and yuca fries. The drink menu gets creative, with herbal aphrodisiacs and hueso de chuchuguazo (a root mixed with rum).
reviewed
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Tropic Ecological Adventures
Provides tours to an ecologically sound lodge in Huaorani territory that is run by the Ecotourism Association of Quehueri’ono, which represents five communities on the upper Shiripuno River. The group also runs day trips, as well as one- and two-day tours into Secoya territory from Coca.
reviewed
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O’Sole Mio
A new, modern Italian restaurant, with outdoor patio overlooking twinkling town lights, that serves uncommonly authentic pizzas. Lightly charred crusts are topped with tasty ingredients such as spinach, salami and ricotta. Pastas also make the grade. Ask the owners about upstairs suites.
reviewed
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Jardín Botáncio las Orquídeas
Visitors rave about the Jardín Botáncio las Orquídeas, located 15 minutes south from Puyo on the road to Macas. Enthusiastic owner Omar Taeyu guides visitors through hills of lush foliage and fishponds to see gorgeous plants and countless rare orchids. Call ahead.
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Ecoselva
Pepe Tapia González takes visitors on fun one- to 10-day tours with overnight stays at his rustic lodge or jungle camps. He speaks English, has a biology background and is knowledgeable about plants and insects. Tours cost about $45 per person per day. Located on the Plaza.
reviewed
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La Carihuella
Missionaries converge in large groups here, but even nonbelievers are welcome for meaty meals cooked over an open grill. Hungry? The two-person barbecue plate ($12.50) has two kinds of sausage, chicken, pork chop, sirloin, tripe and kidney. Close to the bus station.
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