Getting there & away
Buses to Ibarra (US$4, four hours) depart at 1pm and 3pm from the corner of Imbabura and Tácito Ortíz. Buses to Esmeraldas (US$5, five hours) and Borbón (US$1.20, one hour) depart hourly between 5am and 4pm from the central plaza.
Although boat traffic has dwindled with the completion of the road to Borbón and Esmeraldas, there are still departures at 8:30am and 11am for La Tola (US$6, 2½ hours), via Limones (US$3, 1½ hours). The ride through the coastal mangroves to these tiny, predominantly Afro-Ecuadorian fishing villages is quite an experience. Prepare for sun, wind and spray. The 8:30am departure connects in La Tola with buses to Esmeraldas (four to five hours).