Things to do in Esmeraldas
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Reserva Biológica Bilsa
Rugged types should head to Reserva Biológica Bilsa. Crashing waterfalls and spectacular wildlife adorn this biological station. Set in the Montañas de Mache (a small range of mountains), the reserve spans 100ha (247 acres) and is administered by Fundación Jatun Sacha. Biodiversity is exceptionally high in these last vestiges of tropical wet forest. Visitors may see howler monkeys and endangered birds such as the long wattled umbrella bird.
This trip is not for the feeble or the frail: January to June requires hiking or mule-riding a mud-splattered 25km (15.5mi) trail. Contact Jatun Sacha for reservations and volunteer or research information.
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Reserva Ecolólogica Mache Chindul
Created in 1996, this reserve covers 70,000ha (172,974 acres) of tropical wet forest, one of the last to be found on the Ecuadorian coast. Set amongst rivers, waterfalls and swimming holes upon two small mountain ranges, it's heaven for green thumbs and tree huggers alike - see ancient species that are new to science, like Cinnamomum and Matayba.
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Centro Cultural Esmeraldas
The Centro Cultural Esmeraldas houses a museum, a library and a bookstore. Material ranges from recent local history to fine ceramics and gold work from the ancient Tolita culture. Some exhibit signs and documentary videos are in English, and the staff is very obliging.
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Oh! Mar
Out in Las Palmas, this casual open-sided beachfront restaurant serves delicious seafood dishes like encocado de langosta (lobster in coconut milk) and ensumacao (soup with coconut and peanuts).
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Las Redes
On the east side of the central plaza, this teeny café crammed with wooden benches serves almuerzos (set lunches). Bring your local inquiries to the owner, who enjoys chatting with travelers.
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La Tunda
One of several new cafés overlooking the Plaza Cívica, La Tunda has a large menu of ceviche, lasagna, pastas and hamburgers, as well as breakfast plates. There’s outdoor seating on the square.
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El Típico Esmeraldeño
This charming little spot in Las Palmas is a local favorite for its home cooking. Enjoy daily lunch specials (fish soup, plus chicken, beef or pork dishes) on the breezy fenced-in patio.
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Infynity
The concrete and thatch-roofed Infynity, with a tropical flavor, is one of the best discos in Las Palmas. Note: an unescorted woman may encounter serious hassles.
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Centro Artesenal
The Centro Artesenal is a new handicrafts center. Browse for tapestries, baskets, tagua carvings and other Chachi pieces.
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Parrilladas El Toro
Beyond the mafioso decor you’ll find a decent steakhouse specializing in beef and chops. The thatched courtyard seating is preferable.
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AKI Supermercado
AKI Supermercado is a good supermarket for stocking up on provisions.
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