Things to do in Northern Highlands
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Craft Market
Vendors hock an astounding array of wares at the crafts market on Plaza de Ponchos each and everyday, but Saturday is the principal market day, when the roads jam with visitors and the food market and household goods stalls overflow into adjacent streets.
Plaza de Ponchos is the nucleus of tourist activity, with its staple of woolen goods - such as tapestries, blankets, ponchos, thick hooded sweaters, scarves, gloves, hats and alpaca goods from other regions - in addition to embroidered blouses, hammocks, carvings, jewelry, original paintings and struggling Guayasamín imitations, knit finger puppets, clay pipes, fake shrunken heads, handbags and woven mats. The mostly fem…
reviewed
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Diceny Viajes
Travelers give kudos to this guide service run by native otavaleña Zulay Saravino, who helped start Otavalo’s first tour agency. Knowledgeable, bilingual guides lead tours to various villages to learn about crafts, music and local traditions. Stay in guest rooms (rooms per night $14) in Zulay’s own home in the small village of Quinchuquí.
reviewed
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Café Sol y Luna
A small Belgian-owned café with a cozy dining patio and warm interior. Food is more healthy than exciting; the slim menu board offers crisp organic salads, home-style pastas and veggie burgers.
reviewed
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Food Market
The food market sells produce and household goods for the locals. While you might have little use for an enormous cauliflower, it's an interesting place to visit.
reviewed
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Ecomontes Tour
Offers day trips on Saturdays and Wednesdays. Trips include visits to a bizcocho (biscuit) factory in Cayambe and the Peguche Falls.
reviewed
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Instituto Superíor de Español
Instituto Superíor de Español receives high marks from travelers. It can also arrange family homestays.
reviewed
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Fauno
A slick three-level club attracting the younger crowd with Latin rock on weekends.
reviewed
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Plaza de Ponchos
Vendors hock an astounding array of wares at the crafts market on Plaza de Ponchos each and every day, but Saturday is the principal market day. Roads are jammed with visitors perusing its staple of woolen goods such as tapestries, blankets, ponchos, sweaters, scarves and hats, as well as embroidered blouses, hammocks, carvings, jewelry, paintings and fake shrunken heads.
Bargaining is expected, especially with multiple purchases, so don't be shy. The action peters out around mid-afternoon as groups of men gather in corners to drink, and vendors begin chatting amongst themselves while their toddlers nap under piles of sweaters. Food stalls set up at the northern end proff…
reviewed
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Heladería Rosalía Suárez
Teenage boredom inspired Rosalía Suárez to invent ice creams in the kitchen back in 1897, when she was just 17. Her experimentation led to a discovery – the best ice cream had no cream at all. Rosalía decided to share the sweet treat, and her shop Heladería Rosalía Suárez has been a sensation for more than a century. Helados de paila are actually sorbets stirred with a wooden spoon in a large copper bowl (the paila ) and cooled on a bed of straw and ice. The shop, now run by her grandson, claims the recipe requires pure juice from tropical fruits and egg whites. It’s not entirely possible to imitate – ice from the first versions was brought down from the glacier o…
reviewed
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Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas
This reserve protects a huge swath of the western Andes. The range of altitudes, from Volcán Cotacachi to the coastal lowland rainforests, means an abundance of biodiversity. Travel from the highland to lowland areas of the reserve is nearly impossible – how’s your bushwhacking? Most visitors either visit the lowlands from San Miguel on Río Cayapas or the highlands around Laguna de Cuicocha. From Cotacachi, just before arriving at Laguna de Cuicocha, a rangers’ booth serves as the entrance to the reserve.
reviewed
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Animal Market
Visitors who get up before the sun are rewarded with Saturday morning’s animal market. While you might have little use for screaming piglets or a lethargic cow, it’s certainly worth visiting. Observe the subdued bargaining over a fresh empanada de queso (cheese turnover) from a hillside vendor. Cross the bridge at the end of Colón and follow the crowds to get to the market, which is a kilometer out of town, west of the Panamericana in the Viejo Colegio Agrícola.
reviewed
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Zulaytur
Anthropologist Rodrigo Mora is an invaluable source of local information and his company Zulaytur has many reader recommendations. Guided bilingual tours to village indigenous homes offer a rare opportunity to glimpse the conditions of working artisans and interact with them while learning about the weaving process. Tours cost around US$16 per person. Zulaytur also offers trips to hike to Lagunas de Mojanda and Laguna de Cuicocha. Don't mistake similarly named operations.
reviewed
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Runa Tupari Native Travel
Renowned for its approach to community tourism, Runa Tupari has partnered with 44 indigenous, mestizo and Afro-Ecuadorian rural communities to offer sightseeing, hiking, horseback riding and biking trips. Rural homestays are $25 per night. Offbeat options include a bumpy 2000m mountain-bike descent into the Intag’s tropical cloud forest, a round-trip 10-hour hike up ‘Mama’ Volcán Cotacachi (4939m) and some culinary adventuring. It also sells Intag coffee and local crafts.
reviewed
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El Lechero
The Lechero is a famous tree known for its magical healing powers. It's well worth the invigorating hike - there's nothing like some fresh air, great views and, of course, a little magic! On the road out of town, follow the painted arrows on the ground until you pass a fragrant Eucalyptus grove - continue on to the crest of a hill until a lone, stubby tree appears...and be healed.
reviewed
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Yolanda’s Chicha de Yamor
Yolanda Cabrera has become famous for delicious local fare such as tortillas de maiz (corn tortillas), mote (hominy), empanaditas (Spanish pies) and the local favorite of fritada (fried pork). Of course, the real attraction is her chicha de yamor, which Yolanda stirs out back in large bubbling cauldrons over smoky fires.
reviewed
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Yolanda's Chicha de Yamor
Open from late August to mid-September during festival time, Yolanda Cabrera serves delicious local fare such as tortillas de maiz (corn tortillas), mote (hominy), empanaditas (Spanish pies) and the local favorite of fritada (fried pork). Of course, the real attraction is her chicha de yamor.
reviewed
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Hotel Ali Shungu
Food with gourmet touches (and higher prices) is served up in a greenhouse-like setting decorated with Andean crafts. The menu caters to homesick visitors, with waffles in raspberry syrup, roast-beef sandwiches, curries, enchilada casserole and New York cheesecake all on offer. Check out the impressive jewelry case while you wait.
reviewed
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Antojitos de Mi Tierra
The place for traditional snacks such as chicha de arroz (a sweetened rice drink), tamales, humitas (small tamales wrapped in corn husks), morochos (meat turnovers) and quimbolitos (corn dumplings steamed in corn husks or leaves). Owner Marta Jduregi is a well-known local historian and chef.
reviewed
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Market
The daily market is stuffed with everything from exotic highland fruits and baggies of ground spices to mops, weaving tools and bootleg CDs. On Saturdays, this market also explodes with even more raw foods. There’s also an indoor ‘food court,’ a chance to belly up alongside locals and slurp soups.
reviewed
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Galería Luís Potosí
This small village near Ibarra specializes in woodcarvings. The most renowned gallery in San Antonio de Ibarra is Galería Luís Potosí. Potosí has achieved fame throughout Ecuador and abroad. Ask to see the workspace he shares with other woodworkers when you visit the gallery.
reviewed
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El Patio
The dust has settled on the stables decor, but the Colombian food is delicious. Try the bandeja paisa, which includes no less than four fried foods (pork skins, sausage, egg and banana) plus rice, tender smoky beans and avocado. Portions are enormous and service is good.
reviewed
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Siempre Verde
Get off just before Santa Rosa for the two hour walk into Siempre Verde a small community-run research station supporting tropical conservation education with excellent hiking and bird-watching. Students and researchers are welcome with prior arrangement.
reviewed
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San Francisco
This new, modern restaurant is very popular. Check the chalkboard menu before you order at the counter for the reliable plato del día (daily special; $3.50). Don’t miss the fresh berry desserts and ice creams.
reviewed
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Degloria
Happy cooks in white chefs hats create sweet treats in this dessert café’s open kitchen. Creamy tres leche (butter cake) and fruit pies are the main event, but crepes and salads shouldn’t be ignored.
reviewed
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Centro Cultural
The Centro Cultural houses an archaeology museum featuring prehistoric ceramics and gold artifacts from Pimampiro with signs in English. There’s also a local historical archive and library.
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