Plaza de Ponchos

Lonely Planet review

Vendors hock an astounding array of wares at the crafts market on Plaza de Ponchos each and every day, but Saturday is the principal market day. Roads are jammed with visitors perusing its staple of woolen goods such as tapestries, blankets, ponchos, sweaters, scarves and hats, as well as embroidered blouses, hammocks, carvings, jewelry, paintings and fake shrunken heads.

Bargaining is expected, especially with multiple purchases, so don't be shy. The action peters out around mid-afternoon as groups of men gather in corners to drink, and vendors begin chatting amongst themselves while their toddlers nap under piles of sweaters. Food stalls set up at the northern end proffer vats of chicken or tripe soup roiling on portable stovetops, whole flop-eared suckling pigs served with mote (maize) kernals, and scoops of chicha (a fermented corn drink) from plastic buckets.