Sights in Central Highlands
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Baths
Baños means 'baths,' which is precisely what the town is famous for, and precisely what you should get into at least once while you're here. Most of them are fed by thermal springs burbling from the base of the active Volcán Tungurahua. The water in the pools is constantly being recycled and only looks murky because of its mineral content, which is touted for its restorative and healthful properties. Chlorates, sulfates and magnesium are among the principal chemicals found in the baths.
There are four municipal baths. Three are in Baños (only one is hot), and the fourth is out of town. All have changing rooms and clothing storage. Towels are available for rent, but gene…
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Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Agua Santa
Within the town itself, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Agua Santa is dedicated to the Virgin of the Holy Water (the same one with a shrine over by the waterfall). This illustrious lady is credited with several local miracles. Inside the church, paintings depict her wonders with explanations in Spanish along the lines of: ‘On January 30, 1904, Señor X fell off his horse as he was crossing the Río Pastaza bridge. As he fell 70m to the torrents below, he yelled “Holy Mother of the Holy Water” and was miraculously saved!’ Other paintings show people being spared from exploding volcanoes, burning hotels and other misfortunes. The Virgin is particularly good at warding off…
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Museo de Arte Religioso
Inside the beautifully restored, 16th-century convent of the Conceptas nuns, Riobamba’s Museo de Arte Religioso houses one of the country’s finest collections of 17th- and 18th-century religious art. Once upon a time, many upper-class girls were sent to this convent for confined education within its walls. The museum shows the nuns’ bleak cells and even the scourges they used to ‘punish’ themselves. The museum’s signature piece is a priceless, meter-tall monstrance inlaid with more than 1500 precious stones including emeralds, pearls, diamonds, rubies, amethysts and aquamarines. Made of solid gold with a solid silver base, it weighs over 360kg (making it incredibly diff…
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Volcano Watching
For a while, the attraction of watching the erupting Volcán Tungurahua practically dwarfed the town's baths. Although not as dramatic as it was, the volcano still puffs smoke and ash and seeing it is an unforgettable experience. The crater cannot be seen from the town itself. You have to walk either to Runtún, to the northern edge of town, near the Puente San Francisco, or to other spots outside town.
The tourist office provides free maps that pinpoint the best places. Tour companies offer night tours that are totally worthless unless the volcano is more active than it was in 2005 and 2006. Find out first.
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La Piscina de La Virgen
This is the best-known bath in Baños, the only hot pools in town. There are three altogether: one is cold, another is warm and a third reaches nearly 48°C (118°F), making it a truly scalding experience. The best time to hit the pools is in the early morning when there are fewer people. If you're curious, ask the basket woman to show you the ojo del agua, where the water, heated by the volcano, gushes from the earth at a scorching 50°C (122°F)!
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Laguna Quilotoa
About 14km north of Zumbahua, the famous volcanic-crater lake of Laguna Quilotoa is a gasp-inducing sight. A lookout on the precipitous crater rim offers stunning views of the mirror-green lake 400m below and the snowcapped peaks of Cotopaxi and Iliniza Sur in the distance. When you ask the locals how deep it is, they inevitably say it has no bottom, which seems entirely plausible given its awesomeness (the geologists say 250m).
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Church Museum
Above the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Agua Santa is a little museum with an eclectic, if somewhat haphazardly thrown together, collection of poorly kept taxidermic animals, religious paintings, church vestments and local handicrafts. A significant portion of the display contains donations by pilgrims to Nuestra Señora de Agua Santa, the local icon, including military attire and a surprisingly sizable collection of toy trucks.
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Museo de la Ciudad
If you're just trying to kill some time, pop into the Museo de la Ciudad. It occupies a beautifully restored building from 1910, once inhabited by a woman who was both Riobamba's best hair stylist and possessed by the devil. Slightly less interesting than its previous inhabitant, the museum's exhibits include a permanent national park display, historical photos of Riobamba and temporary visual-art exhibits on the 2nd floor.
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La Quinta de Juan León Mera
La Quinta de Juan León Mera is set on the banks of the Río Ambato in the suburb of Atocha, about 2km northeast of downtown. The estate, built in 1874, has period furnishing and is set in the Jardín Botánico La Liria, a lush garden with more than 200 plant species and a trail down to the river. To get there by foot, walk northwest on Montalvo, cross the river and turn right on Capulíes.
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Museo de Ciencias Naturales
Although a bit dusty, this natural history museum in the Colegio Bolívar houses Ecuador’s most thorough collection of stuffed birds, mammals and reptiles. The historical photograph collage and a gruesome display of farm freaks, such as two-headed calves and six-legged lambs, make great fun for the whole family.
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Piscina Gamboa
Numerous private baths have sprung up in town, though none of them are mineral baths. Still, they're relaxing. One of the best is Piscina Gamboa, which has an indoor lap pool, baños de cajón (steam boxes), hot tub, mud masks and massages. The basic around US$3 fee covers the pool only.
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Basilica
Parque La Libertad (Primera Constituyente at Alvarado) is anchored by its neoclassical basilica, famous for being the only round church in Ecuador. It was designed, built and decorated mainly by locals, making it a great source of civic pride. It's often closed; try Sundays and evenings after 18:00.
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Casa de la Cultura
The Casa de la Cultura, built on the site of a former Jesuit watermill known as Molinos de Monserrat, houses a small ethnography and art museum. The stone steps above the river are a nice retreat from Latacunga’s busy sidewalks.
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Mirador de la Virgen del Calvario
On a clear day, the Mirador de la Virgen del Calvario lookout offers views of several distant volcanic peaks. Follow Maldonado up the stairs, go left on Oriente and follow it up to the statue of the Virgin.
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Parque La Libertad
A few blocks southeast of Parque Maldonado (Primera Constituyente at Espejo), Parque La Libertad is anchored by its neoclassical basilica (Veloz near Alvarado), famous for being the only round church in Ecuador.
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Parque Acuático Los Elenes
Parque Acuático Los Elenes has swimming pools fed by natural mineral springs. The water is quite cool (22°C or 72°F) and the views of Tungurahua and El Altar are marvelous.
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Casa de los Marqueses de Miraflores
The Casa de los Marqueses de Miraflores, an archaeological and religious museum in a surviving colonial-era mansion, covers the Mamá Negra festivals.
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Casa y Mausaleo de Montalvo
The northwest side of the handsome Parque Juan Montalvo is taken up by Casa y Mausaleo de Montalvo, Montalvo’s pied-à-terre and where he is interred.
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Plaza 15 de Mayo
The markets on Saturday and Wednesday take place at Plaza 15 de Mayo, which has old adobe houses and a pleasantly quiet, forgotten colonial air.
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Museo Histórico Martínez-Holguim
Just on the north side of La Liria is the Museo Histórico Martínez-Holguim, a period quinta formerly owned by a famous mountain climber.
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Parque Maldonado
The handsome, tree-filled Parque Maldonado is flanked by Riobamba’s cathedral on the northeastern side.
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Parque 21 de Abril
Just north of downtown, the Parque 21 de Abril has an observation platform with views of the surrounding mountains.
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Museum
Near the main square is a museum holding the mummified remains of a Franciscan monk from the 16th century.
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Piscinas Santa Clara
Piscinas Santa Clara has two cooler pools (about 22°C or 72°F), which are higher in minerals than La Virgen.
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