Zealand’s North Coast

Introducing Zealand’s North Coast

There is an innocence and a simplicity to the north coast of Zealand that evokes childhood seaside holidays from decades past with its pretty half-timbered fishing villages, wooded camp sites and miles and miles of excellent sandy beaches. Come July, half of Copenhagen decamps to the north coast for their monthly holiday, however in June and August there is a much smaller crowd.

Hornbæk, the next main town west of Helsingør, has the best and most easily accessible beach on the north coast. The beach is a vast expanse of silky white sand and grassy dunes that run the entire length of the town. From the train station, it’s just a five-minute walk directly down Havnevej to the harbour where you’ll find a great seafood kiosk and the yacht marina. Simply climb the dunes to the left and you’re on the beach. The library doubles as the tourist office (49 70 47 47; www.hornbaek.dk; Vestre Stejlebakke 2A; 2-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am-5pm Wed & Fri, to 2pm Sat).

Zealand’s northernmost town, Gilleleje, has the island’s largest fishing port. Visitors usually head straight for the harbour and adjacent sandy beach. The harbour has several wonderful seafood kiosks, selling fresh caught crayfish platters, fish and chips and even sushi. The picnic benches are packed when the sun shines. There is a fish smoking house here too. In the town itself are a smattering of shops and restaurants, but the chief pleasure is simply walking around taking in the characterful thatched houses. The tourist office (48 30 01 74; www.gilleleje.dk; Hovedgade 6; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat mid-Jun–Aug, to 4pm Mon-Fri & to 3pm Sat Augmid-Jun) is in the centre. There are excellent beaches either side of the town and others along the coast to the west, especially at Rågeleje, Dronningmølle and at Smidstrup Strand, where conditions are often good for windsurfing.

Tisvildeleje is a pleasant seaside village with a long, straggling main street that leads to an even longer beach. The tourist office (48 70 74 51; www.helsinge.com; Banevej 8; noon-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat mid-Jun-Aug) is in the train station. Behind the beach is Tisvilde Hegn, a windswept forest of twisted trees and heather-covered hills laced with good paths.

Last updated: Mar 24, 2009