Things to do in Helsingør (Elsinore)
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Sankt Mariæ Kirke
The medieval church of Sankt Mariæ Kirke contains some spiffy 15th-century frescoes. Alongside standard biblical scenes are bizarre faces from whose mouths spring frogs, foxes, bulls and rams; while in the southern aisle pipers and lute players burst from giant flowers. There’s also an ornate rococo gallery and a 17th-century organ played by Dieterich Buxtehude (1637–1707), a Baroque composer who greatly influenced Bach; frequent organ concerts are attended by aficionados.
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Kronborg Slot
The monstrous military bulk of Kronborg Slot is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and top of the town’s sightseeing list. Despite the attention it has received as the setting of Hamlet, the castle’s real function was far less romantic – it acted as a formidable tollhouse. Imagine sitting in the Øresund with the cannons of Kronborg aimed squarely at your creaking ship, and you can understand how wonderfully effective the castle was in its tax-gathering purpose.
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Danmarks Tekniske Museum
Southwest of the centre on an industrial estate, Danmarks Tekniske Museum displays innovative technological inventions from the late 19th and early 20th centuries: early gramophones, radios, motor vehicles and aeroplanes. The latter includes a 1906 Danish-built aeroplane that, it’s claimed, was the first plane flown in Europe (it stayed airborne for 11 seconds!). The museum is a 15-minute ride away on bus 805, in the direction of Espergærde.
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Helsingør Bymuseum
One block north of Sankt Olai Kirke is Helsingør Bymuseum, built by the monks of the adjacent monastery in 1516 to serve as a sailors’ hospital. There’s a detailed model of 19th-century Helsingør, with an interesting 15-minute recording about the town’s history in Danish, Swedish, German and English; and a hotchpotch of exhibits (old chemists’ bottles, medieval pottery finds, 200 dolls) labelled mainly in Danish.
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Handels- og Søfartsmuseet
Tracing Denmark’s maritime past and overseas colonies, Handels- og Søfartsmuseet, running round three whole sides of the courtyard, is worth a visit. This collection of model ships, paintings, nautical instruments and sea charts helps one to appreciate the impact of the sea on Danish culture and history. It also contains the world’s oldest ship biscuit, c 1852 – which looks peculiarly edible.
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Rådmand Davids Hus
We loved this place, a popular café with sunny staff contained within a lopsided 17th-century half-timbered house. Traditional Danish food (nothing for veggies) is served up either in the cosy, crooked interior or the cobbled courtyard, bursting with greenery. The special is the ‘shopping lunch’ (75kr), typically a generous plate of salad, salmon pâté, and slices of lamb, cheese and homemade ryebread.
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Museet Skibsklarerergaarden
The higgledy-piggledy Museet Skibsklarerergaarden, the shipping agent's house, is steeped in seafaring history: while the agent checked cargo and filled out paperwork in the office, ships' captains could stock up on supplies, have a meal, or catch forty winks in the attic. Unfortunately the 50-minute tours are in Danish only; but pop into the spicy-smelling 18th-century shop, and buy a beer brewed in the tiny backyard.
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Sankt Olai Kirke
Surrounded by lime trees, Sankt Olai Kirke is a handsome red-brick Gothic cathedral built in 1559. Unusual features include an over-the-top white-and-gold altarpiece (one of Denmark’s largest at 12m high), an ominous black stone slab where the names of wrong-doers were written, and, wedged in an archway, an English cannonball fired on route to the Battle of Copenhagen (1801).
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Hammermøllen
If you don’t have a pressing itinerary, consider cycling to Hammermøllen, five kilometres west in Hellebæk. This picturesque old smithy was founded by Christian IV in 1765 to hammer out cannons for his battleships, and has also served as a copper mill and textile mill. Admire the thatched roof and water-wheels, and relax over coffee and cake.
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Marienlyst Slot
About 1.5km northwest of town is Marienlyst Slot, a stately neoclassical manor house built in 1763, set back in a manicured garden ablaze with rhododendrons. Inside there’s a small collection of silverware and 19th-century paintings of Helsingør and Hornbæk, including one on the 2nd floor that’s half Venice and half Copenhagen.
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Hamlet's Grave
'Hamlet's grave' Marienlyst Slot can be found in the parkland behind the manor house Marienlyst Slot, added because every good romantic garden should provoke melancholic thoughts; and as a tourist attraction for visiting English merchants convinced that Hamlet was real.
The Hornbæk-bound train stops at Marienlyst station, 100m north of the manor house.
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Hispania Restaurant
For a change from open sandwiches, try this authentic Spanish restaurant. Indecisive eaters can nibble on tapas dishes, or go for meat and fish mains such as albondigas (Spanish meatballs), paella or stewed lamb, washed down with a bottle of Spanish wine. Eat in the snug, modernistic interior, or at one of the garden tables in summer.
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Café Vivaldi
This popular, relaxed café is decorated in mock ‘French bistro’ style. The coffee’s good, and the food tasty and modern. It ranges from nachos, omelettes, salads and quiches to more substantial evening mains – steaks, burritos and pasta dishes. Live music adds to the buzz at weekends.
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Madame Sprunck
A great old building, with seating in a candlelit wooden interior or charming mustard-yellow courtyard. Food is a mixture of Danish, French and Italian – everything from burgers to more sophisticated dishes such as salmon roe with red onions – and there’s usually one vegetarian choice.
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Karmeliterklostret
Sankt Mariæ Kirke is attached to one of Scandinavia’s best-preserved medieval monasteries, Karmeliterklostret, a soothing place of red brick and whitewash. Christian II’s mistress, Dyveke (c 1490–1517), is thought to have been buried here.
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Møllers Conditori
Denmark’s oldest konditori has outdoor seats on bustling Stengade, a prime site for people-watching. Nibble on succulent pastries, fresh bread rolls or sandwiches as you watch the passing crowds.
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Axeltorv
There's a cluster of restaurants and beer gardens around the main square, Axeltorv.
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Gæstgivergården
A pub-like atmosphere with everything from burgers and salads to traditional Danish fare, including some good-value specials. There’s often live music on Friday and Saurday nights.
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