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Denmark Tips & articles

May 10, 2011 12:12:58 AM

Europe’s 8 best night trains

  • Tom Hall
  • Lonely Planet Author

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The midnight thump and clunk of railway carriages being uncoupled and shunted in a station somewhere in central Europe is not in itself romantic. But add in that this is the night train between Paris and Venice, and that you’re tucked up in bed six feet off the floor, and everything’s somehow more exciting. .

The opposite of fast daytime services, night trains chug at a relaxed pace, aiming to deliver passengers refreshed and ready for the day rather than getting from A to B in the shortest possible time.

These trains do more than save on a night’s accommodation. They’re often an adventure in themselves, transporting travellers, families and businessfolk all bundled in together on what can be a rolling party. Some are the finest train journeys you could ever be lucky enough to ride on. And all echo down the tracks from a time when trains were the only way to travel.

Most services offer a mixture of sleeper compartments with room for two or four passengers, six-person dormitory-style couchettes and seat accommodation. Go for the best one you can afford, and book ahead by at least a few days, especially at busy times. Berths go on sale between 30 and 120 days in advance, depending on where you’re travelling. Seat61 and national train operators can guide you through the booking process.

Here are eight essential night train journeys  – how many have you done?

Moscow to St Petersburg

The Red Arrow offers 75 years of history, comfy beds and its own theme song (which explains why it’s the best way to travel between Russia’s superpower cities). When the train, the pick of politicians, dignitaries and humble travellers splashing out on something special, pulls out of St Petersburg just before midnight each evening Reinhold Glière’s rousing Hymn to the Great City sounds out. Those on board settle down for a gentle ride through the night, snoozing in the grand style that Russians have been rightly proud of for generations.

You can do this journey in four and a half hours during the day, but remember:  you’ll get no comfy bed, no vodka nightcap, and no theme tune.

London to Fort William

Great Britain has only two sleeper trains. Both of them are crackers. The Night Riviera runs southwest from London’s Paddington Station and keeps going until it runs out of land at Penzance in Cornwall.

But it is the Caledonian Sleeper that gets Britons most excited. This legendary train leaves Euston Station each night and, via a series of carriage shuffles unnoticed by the snoozing passenger, reaches Glasgow, Edinburgh, Inverness, Aberdeen, Fort William and points in between. The Fort William service is the most spectacular, offering a night on the rails and a morning crossing wonderful Highland scenery before depositing fresh-faced passengers from the two carriages to have made it all the way at the foot of the path up Ben Nevis, the country’s highest peak.

Paris to Venice

Paris is the omphalos of Europe’s night train services. As Parisiens settle down to sleep, trains radiate out across the continent in all directions. This is the only way to leave the French capital, preferably on a balmy summer evening from Gare de Lyon or Bercy station. These termini always seem full of people, which adds to the sense of excitement once you board and find your spot on the train.

The pick of the Paris night trains is the route southeast to Venice. If you can’t sleep you can make out the Alps by moonlight and the Italian Lakes in the early morning before stepping off the train into a different kind of crowd and noise in the Lagoon City. As an added bonus you’ll get an hour or two before the crowds of day-trippers arrive.

Trondheim to Bodo

Under normal circumstances the jaw-dropping views offered by any Norwegian rail journey would mean taking a night train would be a wasted opportunity. But there are two factors in favour of taking the ten-hour Trondheim to Bodo service. Firstly if you do this journey during the summer you needn’t miss anything – the sun will hardly set. Secondly Norwegian trains are very pleasant places to hang out for a while, and a berth on a night train is an excellent deal in a country where bargains aren’t always obvious.

Amsterdam to Copenhagen

CityNightLine services are at the top of the pile for night-train standards in Europe. These carriages run on night services within Germany and connecting with other countries. These modern trains offer reclining seats and six-, four- and two-person berths. Best of all, thanks to Deutsche Bahn’s SparNight promotions you can travel for as little as €29 in a seat or €49 in a bed. Amsterdam to Copenhagen via Hamburg is one of the most useful service to travellers, and gives you a few hours of gawping at Denmark out the window before arrival.

Budapest to Split

Budapest’s Keleti Station is a wonderful place to start a great journey. Split, the gateway to Croatia’s central coast and islands, is a great town to arrive in. The station is over the road from the port and you can be on your way to Brac, Hvar or dozens of other sunny Adriatic rocks within minutes of arriving. In between the two you’ll rattle past Hungary’s Lake Balaton and pause in Zagreb, Croatia’s underrated capital. Note that this is a summer service only.

Prague to Kraków

This classic European journey features on most Inter-Railers itinerary, connecting two of central Europe’s essential destinations. The nine-hour trip allows for plenty of sleeping off all that delicious Czech lager before arriving in Kraków ready for the Polish take on royal castles, imposing squares and atmospheric cellar bars.

Sofia to Istanbul

Services from Greece to Turkey (and elsewhere) may have been recently axed, you can still reach Istanbul by train from Sofia, Bulgaria’s underrated capital. The only downside of this train, is that you have to disembark at the Turkish frontier at one in the morning to get your visa. But you’ll forget that with the thrill of arriving at Sirceki Station, what was the terminal for the Orient Express.

This needn’t be the end of the journey. While the Toros Express service from Istanbul to Aleppo may be out of action, you can cross the Bosphorus to pick up the Trans-Asia Express to Tehran. This is a night train too. In fact, it takes four nights to travel across Turkey and into Iran by way of the Lake Van ferry.

One final word of warning. While the occasional night on a train is the stuff travel dreams are made of, using them as a nightly means of getting a cheap sleep while riding the rails around Europe can send you a little whacko. Prague to Barcelona is best done as a journey of a week or more, not a two-night sprint past some of Europe’s loveliest scenery.

Got any other train journeys to share? Let us know.

Comments

  1. 19 November 2009 3:28AM vasenka Report this comment

    I found the night train from Bucharest to Budapest to be a total nightmare... Sitting upright at a table all night packed in four to a table... Eventually, people were laying on the floor...and in the spaces between carriages. After the first hour or two...night closes in...and you cross the Transylvanian Alps in total darkness...with only your ears popping to tell you that you are in the mountains... As a minimum I'd go for a 4 bed berth...I'll never sit at a table all night again...no sleep...saw nothing all night. Exhausted the next day... I'd rather do two short day trips...or fly.

  2. 19 November 2009 5:01AM mrpierce1 Report this comment

    Rome to Nice. I got a seat - they pull out to recline; and I had the whole compartment to myself so slept very well. The rails hug the mediteranean coast, and the moonlight on the water was enchanting. You see Monte Carlo in the early morning sun and arrive as the city is waking up.

  3. 19 November 2009 5:40AM sputnikboy Report this comment

    I would add the Euronight from Venice to Budapest, you leave Venice in the evening, get through Slovenia and Croatia in the late night, have the chance to see the Balaton lake in the early morning (very good choice to get off in Siofok in the summer) and arrive in Budapest Keleti station in the morning. With the same train you have carriages for Timisoara in Romania, Belgrad in Serbia and, on wednesday for Moscow!

  4. 26 November 2009 8:29PM megsykins Report this comment

    The 'Coast Starlight' from LA / San Francisco to Seattle - not the quickest way, or the cheapest, but waking to the snow-covered Mount Shasta glowing pink in the sunrise was pretty awesome.

    Also, the Indian Pacific - we only did Perth - Adelaide but 42 hours of fun and drinking across the Nullabor! Drinking yourself unconcious was the only way to get any sleep though, those seats were not comfy! Didn't envy the people carrying on another 24 hours to Sydney!!

  5. 26 November 2009 8:42PM mj42 Report this comment

    The only one of those listed which I've been on was Istanbul - Thessaloniki (the opposite direction), but I agree with Sputnikboy on Venice - Budapest although I missed the last bit because I got off in Ljubljana at 3.30am! Some more favourites...

    Strasbourg -> Marseille/Nice Are/Ostersund -> Stockholm/Gothenburg/Malmo Krakow -> Bratislava -> Budapest

  6. 27 November 2009 12:36AM markbek Report this comment

    Mashhad to Tehran in one of the better class new trains is utterly superb. Almost feels like you're in a hotel room and a really good dinner is included in the minuscule fare. Must be one of the best bargain rides in the world.

  7. 27 November 2009 2:03AM paulomb Report this comment

    The overnight sleeping train from Cairo to Aswan in Egypt. Abela trains carry this trips. For 60 USD per person one way and dinner and breakfast included its a nice way to travel to the south of Egypt.

  8. 27 November 2009 3:12AM sel_shah Report this comment

    Moscow to St Petersburgh: Legendary!! Loads of Vodka, friendly locals (For the first time since we boarded the Trans Mongolian!) Great food, and even a special little pack of 'stuff' like a toothbrush, slippers etc. A trip to remember without a doubt!

  9. 27 November 2009 3:38AM greg28 Report this comment

    Night trains sound romantic, and if you manage to sleep they can be a good way to cover a long distance in a hurry.

    The biggest downside though is that if (in Europe at least) you're going 8 or 10 hours in one burst you're missing out on four or five great places in between...

  10. 27 November 2009 4:48AM timtraveler Report this comment

    Stockholm to Narvik in the north of Norway is a fine overnight trip for much of the year. The best scenery comes towards the end between Kiruna and Narvik, so you catch it in daylight except for the depth of winter (overnight you mostly miss the forest and rolling farm lands of southern and central Sweden). At the far end Narvik is gateway to the breathtaking Lofoten Islands. Plus you get to cross the Arctic circle and if it's your first time then you buy your cabin-mates a beer... ;)

  11. 24 June 2010 6:29AM superclusters Report this comment

    I thought Eurostar was also a night train. It probably has a different time table than most of the other European rail companies. Eurostar from London to Paris Train is a big help for all customers but probably the last train around midnight. You can book Eurostar London Paris train at http://www.londonparistrain.com

  12. 9 August 2010 9:59PM derekhoughton Report this comment

    On a journey from Telford UK to Kyiv (Kiev) the Brussels to Berlin was overnight and Berlin to Kyiv. Have also journeyed Glasgow to Athens on a separate expedition. The Kashtan Express(Berlin - Kyiv) is a one way booking only - arrived in Kyiv and had to book the return journey from there (which was quite exciting). A remarkable trip where the train wheels are changed at the Ukrainian border, the train is lifted up while you are aboard to change the wheels. The return trip was like quite exciting in that a lot of shady characters with shopping bags finding any space they could to hide cigarettes and vodka into Poland. All very safe and generally very friendly - carriage comes complete with Ukrainian hostesses who make a lovely cup of tea. www.seat61.com is essential for all info on worldwide train travel . see pics of the trip here http://www.shropshire-images.com/Landscapes/Travel

  13. 13 August 2010 5:28PM babysun Report this comment

    May be it is not the best train - but you will have beautiful views:Basel-Frankfurt-Warsaw and back. It is night train known as "Jan Kiepura",views? - river Rhein with castles at sunset and sunrise.

  14. 15 August 2010 4:44PM altim Report this comment

    I traveled from Guangzhou to Lijiang this spring. A pretty comfortable ride of about 30 hours with a transfer in Kunming. The hardsleepers were fair and with earplugs you're able to get some sleep. They serve good food in the restaurant, but you can get a quick meal (fried rice with a fried egg, of noodle soop) in the compartments for only 2 RBM. I think that was the cheapest breakfast I ever had.

  15. 15 August 2010 6:46PM berg5080 Report this comment

    Really interesting. I'm considering doing a train trip across a couple EU countries so this is helpful. Can anyone suggest some nice side-trips if I'm taking the train from Geneva to Paris?

  16. 16 August 2010 9:16AM awstevenson Report this comment

    I once took a night train from Split to Zagreb which was great fun. You board at 10pm (roughly) in a cosy compartment - there were six of us altogether, my friend and I plus four Spaniards. Eventually we all got talking and playing cards until the lights went out, the seats reclined and we were gliding across to Zagreb.

    Another one I definitely recommend is Rome - Bern, leaving Rome around 9pm. After a busy day in the city you can settle down to a cosy bed, fly through Bologna and Milan Centrale and through the Loschtberg (I think) and wake up refreshed with views of the Thunersee, Bernese Oberland and Bern's wonderful old town. A brilliant way of getting back to Central Europe after spending a week travelling south through Italy!

  17. 16 August 2010 7:50PM lauradenoves Report this comment

    I know it's meant to be European train joiurneys - some of the above sound amazing, and will definitely be going on my inventory for later this year - but the Australian train journeys, although obvious, are worth a mention! @megsykins is right, they are NOT comfortable! Staying up is one option, and usually much hilarity ensues; (we ended up sticking paper eyes to our eyelids to try and fool the night manager). I travelled the 26 hours on the Indian Pacific from Sydney to Adelaide (stopping at Broken Hill) then, after a few days exploring, carried on to Alice Springs (another 26-odd hours) then a week later, onto Darwin (24 and a half hours!) It's long, it can be pricey, but there is something about the vast expanse of red dust flying past, studded with flat-topped mesas and animal skeletons which is both harsh, remarkable and surprising...

    Newquay to London Paddington (during the daytime also) is always a great service for meeting new friends and interesting people!

  18. 6 September 2010 10:07PM kristain77 Report this comment

    Excellent article. Its great pleasure to read this. Content is very nice information is also fantastic. There are number of trains are available thats provides direct and comfortable travel to locations in Europe, and most of the station are located near by city centers. Thats why Train is a better option compair to flight for Traveling in Europe. Interesting Facts About Europe - http://www.europevoyage.net/

  19. 8 April 2011 7:22AM mostinterestingman Report this comment

    @Berg5080-suggest Strasbourg. An easy ride from Paris. Short trip from their to Bern.

  20. 13 April 2011 6:24PM marios1st Report this comment

    There are two night trains from Thessaloniki (Greece) to Belgrade and Sofia. I have travelled with both trains and the experience was fantastic. The compartments are clean and cozy although the carriages are quite old. We travelled to Belgrade in mid-winter and the compartment was so hot that we had to open the window although it was snowing outside. The same happened when we travelled to Sofia. The heating in our carriage ran on coal and a train employee had to shovel coal to keep it going. For train lovers who believe that modern trains are a bit characterless, it was a great experience! We booked a two-berth compartment so that we could get some sleep, but there were compartments with up to six berths. Fantastic way to travel!

  21. 14 April 2011 8:57PM finn_nl Report this comment

    Rail travel in my family goes back a few generations so it's always been the most exciting way of travelling for me.. I've been on numerous CityNightLines, some night trains throughout Europe like a memorable one from Zagreb to Sarajevo - no beds but a host of friendly fellow backpackers armed with vodka and pear juice (of all things!) more than made up for that! And most recently Moscow to Saint Petersburg - not, i might add, your fancy schmanzy Red Arrow train, dear LP, cos we're students here: 3rd class platskartniy and it was a great adventure (though a comfortable one!)...

    I've always wondered why LP never decided to publish a special train guide to Europe? I'd buy it for sure..

  22. 16 April 2011 6:44AM ashleyjts Report this comment

    I have heard bad things about the train from Venice to Paris? Are there different trains? If so, which ones are better?

  23. 26 July 2011 10:21AM pontex Report this comment

    Amsterdam to Rome, starting by going down the Rhine by daylight, then across the Alps and to Rome in time for lunch the next day.

  24. 17 January 2012 8:57PM zwitserlaan Report this comment

    @Euroclusters: Eurostar (channel tunnel train between Brussels/Paris and London) has no overnight services, only daytime.

    The post is not entirely correct in stating that the UK has only two overnight trains. In fact, there are two Caledonian Sleepers. One departs shortly before midnight (no Saturday departures, and on Fridays and Sundays, departure time may be earlier) and has coaches for Glasgow (Central) and Edinburgh (Waverley), arriving around 7am the next morning. The second departure is earlier (usually around 9pm) and has coaches for Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William. The posting is correct as that the Fort William Sleeper is most definitely the most spectacular one (and it can be sold out quite early, so booking in advance can be useful). By the way, both Caledonian sleepers have a bar with a wide choice on single malt whiskies - as far as I know: unique in Europe.

  25. 17 January 2012 9:00PM zwitserlaan Report this comment

    I'm missing some of the Paris-Italy and Zürich/Paris-Spain sleeper services, being some of the few with full restaurant services (together with most of the CNL CityNightLine services). On the Paris-Barcelona/Madrid sleepers, dinner and breakfast is included in the "Gran Classe" sleeper accomodation and this may make "Gran Classe" well worth the extra cost (though still not particularly cheap).

  26. 19 March 2012 11:52AM wkaemena Report this comment

    The Caledonian Sleeper from London to Fort William can be visited here in full and 360º interactive splendor.

    http://www.kaemena360.com/home/caledonian-sleeper.html

    or search on Google for " caledonian sleeper kaemena360"

  27. 19 March 2012 11:57AM wkaemena Report this comment

    here you can visit in interactive 360º panoramas the Talgo night trains running between Paris and Madrid / Barcelona, and between the french spanish border at Irun to Lisbon or between Lisbon and Madrid . or between Barcelona and Milano / Zurich

    http://www.360cities.net/search/talgo-kaemena-hotel

  28. 19 March 2012 11:58AM wkaemena Report this comment

    CNL Nighttrain http://www.360cities.net/search/kaemena-cnl as interactive 360º panoramas

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