Things to do in Jutland
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Grenen
Appropriately enough for such a neat and ordered country, Denmark doesn't end untidily at its most northerly point, but on a neat finger of sand just a few metres wide, known as Grenen. You can actually paddle at its tip where the waters of the Kattegat and Skagerrak clash and you can put one foot in each sea - but not too far. Bathing here is strictly forbidden because of the ferocious tidal currents and often-angry seas that collide to create mane-tossing white horses.
The tip is the culmination of a long, curving sweep of sand at Grenen, about 3km northeast of Skagen along Rte 40. Where the road ends there's a car park, restaurant and small art museum. From the car par…
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Night Watchman Tour
One of the best free activities in Denmark is Ribe's 45-minute night watchman tour, which departs from out the front of Weis Stue, on Torvet, once or twice a night in the warmer months.
Nowadays, it's a stroll through the town's historic streets, designed to entertain and educate visitors to Ribe, but the night watchman's walk was originally born of necessity. As early as the 14th century these watchmen made their nightly rounds in Ribe, making sure the streets were safe for locals to walk. They were also charged with being on the lookout for fires or floods threatening the town. The job was abolished in Ribe in 1902, but reinstated in 1935 as a tourist attraction. These …
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Silkeborg Museum
Silkeborg Museum is housed in the oldest building in Silkeborg (dating back to 1767). Speaking of old, inside the museum you can check out the amazingly well-preserved body of the Tollund Man, the central (albeit leathery) star in an otherwise predictable collection. Like the Grauballe Man at the Moesgård Museum outside Århus, the life (and death) of the Tollund Man remains a mystery. His intact remains were found around the outskirts of Silkeborg in 1950, and have been carbon dated to around 220 BC. The autopsy suggests he had been hanged, yet he was placed as though lying asleep with only a leather hat over his face and a thin leather noose around his neck. Was he an ex…
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Danfoss Universe
Als’ big-ticket drawcard is the new Danfoss Universe, off Rte 405 en route north to Nordborg. It’s an ‘experience park for the curious’, according to its marketing; it opened in mid-2005 and is proving a popular attraction for families and schools. One local pithily summed it up as ‘brain gymnastics’ and the country’s minister for education has given it a shiny gold star, encouraging all Danish Grade 7s (12 to 13 year olds) to visit. There are more than 200 attractions enabling you to discover how nature and technology work. But education while you’re on holidays? Well, yes. It’s all well-designed, superinteractive fun and will stop the kids bothering you with questions…
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Jomfru Ane Gade
Tourist brochures give Aalborg the moniker 'the Paris of the north'. Danish folk describe the scene as the only place in Denmark where you're likely to see a good, old-fashioned bar fight. The truth lies somewhere in between, but if it's a flirt, a drink or loud repetitive beats in the form of thumping techno, Euro-rock or house music you're after, trawl Jomfru Ane Gade, Aalborg's take-no-prisoners party street.
The venues themselves are pretty homogenous, so it's best to explore until you hear your kind of music or spy your type of crowd. Things are pretty tame early in the week (when the crowd of middle-agers dining along the strip may take you by surprise), but things…
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Ribe VikingeCenter
Embrace your inner Viking (well, leave aside the raping and pillaging part) at the Ribe VikingeCenter, a much more hands-on experience than the museum. It attempts to re-create a slice of life in Viking era Ribe using various reconstructions, including a 34m Fyrkat-style longhouse. The staff, dressed in period clothing, bake bread over open fires, demonstrate archery and Viking era crafts such as pottery and leatherwork, and offer falconry shows (at 1pm and 3pm in July and August, 12.30pm in May, June and September). All of which you can actively partake in (and you’ll no doubt learn more about Viking life than you could from a textbook). The centre is about 3km south of …
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Lindholm Høje
The atmospheric Lindholm Høje is a Viking burial ground where nearly 700 graves from the Iron Age and Viking Age are strewn around a hilltop pasture ringed by a wall of tall beech trees. Many of the Viking graves are marked by stones placed in the oval outline of a Viking ship, with two larger end stones as stem and stern. At the end of the Viking era the whole area was buried under drifting sand and thus preserved until modern times.
Adjoining the site is Lindholm Høje Museet, which explains the history and has displays on archaeological finds made during its excavation. Huge murals behind the exhibits speculate on what the people of Lindholm looked like and how they li…
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Esbjerg Kunstmuseum
The Utzon-designed Musikhuset Esbjerg is home to the small but eye-opening modern art collection of Esbjerg Kunstmuseum, which has notable works by Richard Mortensen, Robert Jacobsen and Per Kirkeby – also look out for work from Svend Wiig Hansen (he of Mennesket ved Havet). In quite a magnificent display of openness (and a nod to restricted space), the Åbne Magasiner (Open Stores) downstairs allows you to look up and admire undisplayed works from the museum’s collection. The other benefit to a visit is that from the museum it’s easy to admire the angles and details (especially the mushroomlike columns) of the Utzons’ architectural prowess.
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Tilsandede Kirke
The Tilsandede Kirke, or Buried Church, was erected during the late 14th century and was once the biggest church in the region, but in time it fell victim to a sand drift that began in the 17th century and became progressively worse - so much so that churchgoers eventually had to dig their way into God's sacred building. In 1795 the relentless sand drift broke the will of the congregation and the church was closed by royal decree.
The main part of the church was torn down in 1810 but the whitewashed tower still stands. It was used as a navigational tool for sailors back in the early days.
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Hjejlen
The Hjejlen, the world’s oldest operating paddle steamer, has been faithfully plying the waters of the Lake District since it was first launched in 1861. These days the boat shuttles tourists from Silkeborg to the foot of Himmelbjerget during the summer season (10am and 2pm daily, July to mid-August). The operators have other boats regularly plying the same route during this period, and from May to September. The route (adult one way/return 75/105kr, 1¼ hours) takes in a wealth of river and lake scenery and is one of the most popular outings in the Lake District.
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Djurs Sommerland
If you’re travelling with hyperactive kids, let them drag you to one of Djursland’s biggest drawcards, Djurs Sommerland. It’s a much-hyped amusement park with arguably the best outdoor rides in Jutland (more than 60) and a waterpark, with pools and waterslides for all ages. Your wallet may feel the sting, however, when you realise that everyone over the age of three pays the same entrance fee; once this is paid, though, you’re free to play to your heart’s content. Closing hours vary (from 5pm to 9pm in July and August).
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Bangsbo Museum
The Bangsbo Museum is an old country estate with an interesting mix of exhibits. The manor house displays antique furnishings and collectibles, while the old farm buildings house military paraphernalia and exhibits on WWII Danish Resistance. The most intriguing exhibit is the Ellingå ship, reconstructed remains of a 12th-century Viking-style merchant ship that was dug up from a nearby stream bed. Bus 3 from central Frederikshavn stops near the entrance to the estate, from where it's an enjoyable 500m walk through the woods to the museum.
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Pingvin Tapas & Vincafé
Definitely one of our favourites and it seems we’re not alone. This warm restaurant-bar offers a brilliant selection of 30 ‘tapas’ (it’s not so much a place to order dishes to share among a group, but more an individual tasting-plate approach). Make your selection and sit back to enjoy taste sensations such as figs wrapped in Parma ham, smoked duck breast on coleslaw or prawns cooked with sun-dried tomatoes and chilli. There’s a superb wine list, plus lunch-friendly one-stop dishes such as soup, sandwiches and burgers.
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Skandinavisk Dyrepark
It’s true, animals in captivity can be a tad confronting for sentimental adults. Still, if you were to be a caged bear, Skandinavisk Dyrepark is where you would want to be, with endless space and plenty of playmates to fill in the days. The biggest attraction here is the very impressive polar bear facility, which opened in 2006 and allows you a unique chance to check out these icy babies up close. Other star performers include brown bears, moose and wolves. Fallow deer, reindeer and goats can be fed by hand.
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Mortens Kro
Hands down both the best and priciest place to eat in town, Mortens Kro is owned by celebrity chef Morten Nielsen, Denmark’s answer to Gordon Ramsay (minus the swearing, possibly). It’s a superstylish, well-hidden setting for the immaculately prepared food – you’re best to go with a menu of plentiful courses in order to experience the full ‘Morten magic’. This place is always hot, so advance booking is a good idea. Mølleå Arkaden is accessed from Danmarksgade or Peder Barkes Gade.
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Gammel Skagen
There's a touch of Cape Cod in refined Gammel Skagen, also known as Højen. Renowned for its gorgeous sunsets, upmarket hotels and well-heeled summer residents, it's a fine place to head late in the afternoon. It was a fishing hamlet before sandstorms ravaged this windswept area and forced many of its inhabitants to move to Skagen on the more protected east coast.
It's a pleasant bike ride 4km west of Skagen: just head towards Frederikshavn and turn right at Højensvej, which will take you to the waterfront.
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Dronning Louise
The Queen Louise commands a great position on Torvet and entertains her loyal subjects with something-for-everyone panache: she’s a café, restaurant, pub and even a nightclub (until the wee hours on Friday and Saturday). There’s also live music each Thursday. You can dine from the wonderfully broad all-day menu on the square, inside or in the rear courtyard. The brunch plate (95kr) offers serious bang for your buck, or try local boutique brews at the pub. You may not need to venture elsewhere.
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Nordsømuseet
The impressive Nordsømuseet is home to the largest aquarium in northern Europe. Here, 4.5 million litres of seawater is the home of thousands of elegantly balletic North Sea mackerel and herring in a huge, four-storey tank. Every day at 1pm a diver enters the tank to feed the marine life (in July and August there’s an additional feeding at 4pm). The seal pool outside comes alive during feeding time at 11am and 3pm daily. Touchpools and playgrounds make this a good family excursion.
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Skagens Museum
This wonderful museum showcases the outstanding art that was produced here between 1830 and 1930, much of it kitchen-sink portraits of the lives and deaths of those in the fishing community. PS Krøyer’s work is quite incredible, particularly his efforts to ‘paint the light’. He was particularly transfixed by the ‘blue hour’, the transition between day and night, when the sky and the sea seem to merge into each other in the same shade of blue.
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Brygger Bauers Grotter
Follow the candlelit passageway for a fine-dining experience inside ‘cave rooms’ that date back more than 100 years. Service is polished and the menu is nicely upmarket, with traditional touches – we’re talking venison with redcurrant sauce and mushroom roulade, or maybe fried plaice. There’s an excellent beer and wine selection, including local boutique brews. Lunch is considerably more casual. You can also enter from Domkirkestræde, behind the cathedral.
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Pakhuset
Best for seafood, atmosphere and for late-night summer drinks (often accompanied by live music). The discerning seafood-lover will feel at home upstairs at Pakhuset, where fresh fish dishes are meticulously prepared and served on white linen. Downstairs is the more relaxed café, with easier-on-the-wallet prices and appetising meals such as fish soup or steamed mussels. We give Pakhuset the nod over its downstairs café solely for the cheerful wooden ship mastheads it displays inside.
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Gourmet
If you name a restaurant Gourmet, you better be pretty certain you can back it up. This new place at Rømø Golf & Wellness has certainly got the setting and the décor right, and is home to the island’s loveliest terrace. The lunch menu holds few surprises but plenty of smørrebrød and seafood. The kitchen really struts its stuff of an evening, with high-class Rømø produce aplenty (local lamb, organic chicken, Rømø shrimps). Top stuff.
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Skagen By- og Egnsmuseum
Evocatively presented, the open-air Skagen By- og Egnsmuseum, 200m southwest of the harbour, depicts Skagen’s maritime history and gives you an insight into the traditional fishing community that so transfixed the Skagen artists (but without the romanticism!). There are interesting displays on Skagen’s lifeboat rescue service, including dramatic photos of ships in distress, as well as the preserved homes of fisherfolk with their original furnishings.
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Østerågade
East of Budolfi Domkirke on Østerågade are three noteworthy historic buildings: the Baroque-style old town hall (c 1762), opposite the tourist office; Jens Bangs Stenhus (c 1624); and Jørgen Olufsens Hus (c 1616) at Østerågade 25. The latter two are lovely Renaissance buildings - Jens Bang's house was built by a wealthy merchant and now functions as a pharmacy; Jørgen Olufsen's house was built by a wealthy mayor and now operates as a cosy Irish pub.
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Silkeborg Kunstmusem
If you like modern art or, more specifically, modern art by world-renowned Dane (and Silkeborg native) Asger Jorn, you’ll love Silkeborg Kunstmusem. Jorn’s abstract works provide the backbone to the museum’s paintings and sculptures, though the collection also features works by other modern artists, including Max Ernst, Le Corbusier and Danish artists from the influential CoBrA group. The museum is 1km south of the town centre.
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