Sights in Skagen
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Grenen
Appropriately enough for such a neat and ordered country, Denmark doesn't end untidily at its most northerly point, but on a neat finger of sand just a few metres wide, known as Grenen. You can actually paddle at its tip where the waters of the Kattegat and Skagerrak clash and you can put one foot in each sea - but not too far. Bathing here is strictly forbidden because of the ferocious tidal currents and often-angry seas that collide to create mane-tossing white horses.
The tip is the culmination of a long, curving sweep of sand at Grenen, about 3km northeast of Skagen along Rte 40. Where the road ends there's a car park, restaurant and small art museum. From the car par…
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Tilsandede Kirke
The Tilsandede Kirke, or Buried Church, was erected during the late 14th century and was once the biggest church in the region, but in time it fell victim to a sand drift that began in the 17th century and became progressively worse - so much so that churchgoers eventually had to dig their way into God's sacred building. In 1795 the relentless sand drift broke the will of the congregation and the church was closed by royal decree.
The main part of the church was torn down in 1810 but the whitewashed tower still stands. It was used as a navigational tool for sailors back in the early days.
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B
Gammel Skagen
There's a touch of Cape Cod in refined Gammel Skagen, also known as Højen. Renowned for its gorgeous sunsets, upmarket hotels and well-heeled summer residents, it's a fine place to head late in the afternoon. It was a fishing hamlet before sandstorms ravaged this windswept area and forced many of its inhabitants to move to Skagen on the more protected east coast.
It's a pleasant bike ride 4km west of Skagen: just head towards Frederikshavn and turn right at Højensvej, which will take you to the waterfront.
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C
Skagens Museum
This wonderful museum showcases the outstanding art that was produced here between 1830 and 1930, much of it kitchen-sink portraits of the lives and deaths of those in the fishing community. PS Krøyer’s work is quite incredible, particularly his efforts to ‘paint the light’. He was particularly transfixed by the ‘blue hour’, the transition between day and night, when the sky and the sea seem to merge into each other in the same shade of blue.
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D
Skagen By- og Egnsmuseum
Evocatively presented, the open-air Skagen By- og Egnsmuseum, 200m southwest of the harbour, depicts Skagen’s maritime history and gives you an insight into the traditional fishing community that so transfixed the Skagen artists (but without the romanticism!). There are interesting displays on Skagen’s lifeboat rescue service, including dramatic photos of ships in distress, as well as the preserved homes of fisherfolk with their original furnishings.
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E
Skagen Odde Naturcenter
In a beautiful building designed by the prolific architect Jørn Utzon, this nature centre on the outskirts of town gives an insight into the natural elements that surround Skagen and make it unique (the shifting sands, the luminous light, the raging winds, the clashing waters). It’s a little pricey but well done, and there’s plenty of interactive kid-friendly fun (particularly the remote-controlled model boats).
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Fish Auctions
They say the early bird catches the worm but if you want to catch the heartbeat of Skagen's fishing community head down to the fish auctions at the port when the boats return with their catch. The theatre of it all is infectious, as the auctioneers and buyers go toe-to-toe in rapid Danish. The proud fishermen have harsh, weather-beaten faces and some fantastic yarns up their sleeves, so it's well worth sparking up a conversation once the sales are over.
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Skagen Klitplantage
The photogenic tower of the Tilsandede Kirke and the surrounding area comprise part of Skagen Klitplantage, a nature reserve. It's 5km south of Skagen and well signposted from Rte 40. The nicest way to get there is by bike; take Gammel Landevej from Skagen.
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