Things to do in Aalborg
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Jomfru Ane Gade
Tourist brochures give Aalborg the moniker 'the Paris of the north'. Danish folk describe the scene as the only place in Denmark where you're likely to see a good, old-fashioned bar fight. The truth lies somewhere in between, but if it's a flirt, a drink or loud repetitive beats in the form of thumping techno, Euro-rock or house music you're after, trawl Jomfru Ane Gade, Aalborg's take-no-prisoners party street.
The venues themselves are pretty homogenous, so it's best to explore until you hear your kind of music or spy your type of crowd. Things are pretty tame early in the week (when the crowd of middle-agers dining along the strip may take you by surprise), but things…
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Lindholm Høje
The atmospheric Lindholm Høje is a Viking burial ground where nearly 700 graves from the Iron Age and Viking Age are strewn around a hilltop pasture ringed by a wall of tall beech trees. Many of the Viking graves are marked by stones placed in the oval outline of a Viking ship, with two larger end stones as stem and stern. At the end of the Viking era the whole area was buried under drifting sand and thus preserved until modern times.
Adjoining the site is Lindholm Høje Museet, which explains the history and has displays on archaeological finds made during its excavation. Huge murals behind the exhibits speculate on what the people of Lindholm looked like and how they li…
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Pingvin Tapas & Vincafé
Definitely one of our favourites and it seems we’re not alone. This warm restaurant-bar offers a brilliant selection of 30 ‘tapas’ (it’s not so much a place to order dishes to share among a group, but more an individual tasting-plate approach). Make your selection and sit back to enjoy taste sensations such as figs wrapped in Parma ham, smoked duck breast on coleslaw or prawns cooked with sun-dried tomatoes and chilli. There’s a superb wine list, plus lunch-friendly one-stop dishes such as soup, sandwiches and burgers.
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Mortens Kro
Hands down both the best and priciest place to eat in town, Mortens Kro is owned by celebrity chef Morten Nielsen, Denmark’s answer to Gordon Ramsay (minus the swearing, possibly). It’s a superstylish, well-hidden setting for the immaculately prepared food – you’re best to go with a menu of plentiful courses in order to experience the full ‘Morten magic’. This place is always hot, so advance booking is a good idea. Mølleå Arkaden is accessed from Danmarksgade or Peder Barkes Gade.
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Østerågade
East of Budolfi Domkirke on Østerågade are three noteworthy historic buildings: the Baroque-style old town hall (c 1762), opposite the tourist office; Jens Bangs Stenhus (c 1624); and Jørgen Olufsens Hus (c 1616) at Østerågade 25. The latter two are lovely Renaissance buildings - Jens Bang's house was built by a wealthy merchant and now functions as a pharmacy; Jørgen Olufsen's house was built by a wealthy mayor and now operates as a cosy Irish pub.
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Café Saltlageret
This is our favourite spot on Jomfru Ane Gade, with its cute outdoor seating and classy interior. If you can face this street again after a big night on the turps, there are good brunch offerings served until 2pm and the potential for hair of the dog. Otherwise, peruse the lengthy menu for classic café fare. It transforms into a bar-club later on (hey, don’t they all?) and stays open until 6am on Friday and Saturday nights.
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Aalborg Zoo
Teeming with feathered, furry and four-legged friends, it’s no surprise this zoo is one of Denmark’s most popular. Some 1300 animals call it home, including tigers, zebras, elephants, giraffes, chimpanzees, penguins and polar bears. The zoo is southwest of the city and can be reached by bus 11; closing times vary, from 3pm from November to February, to 9pm in July.
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Søgaards Bryghus
Every Danish town worth its salt now has a microbrewery, and Aalborg’s is a cracker. With a swank interior, loads of outdoor seating and a long menu of beer accompaniments, you could easily lose an afternoon or evening here sampling the seven different locals brews – favourite is the Jomfruhumle pilsner, followed closely by the Klosterbryg, a dark beer in the German style.
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Irish House
It’s almost too beautiful a setting in which to get drunk, but we’re sure you can rise to the challenge if need be. Inside a 17th-century building loaded with timber carvings and stained glass, this cheerful pub offers live music Thursday to Saturday, decent pub grub fresh from the Emerald Isle and a big range of draught and bottled beers – and whiskies too.
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Gråbrødrekloster Museet
The underground Gråbrødrekloster Museet allows you to step off one of Aalborg’s busiest shopping streets to explore the life of a Franciscan friary in Aalborg in medieval times. Entry is via an elevator outside Salling department store on Algade; the museum is free to enter, but you pay to ride the elevator (20kr per 250kg in the lift).
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Rosdahls
Rosdahls may look rustic but the cooking is sophisticated, and the locals love it – especially the good-value 189kr fish and seafood buffet on Friday and Saturday nights (come hungry!), or the legendary Saturday brunch (149kr) from 11am. A great fresh-produce market sets up down on the docks on Saturday morning.
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Nordjyllands Kunstmuseum
A striking marble building designed by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto houses this regional museum of modern art. Its lovely, light-filled interior houses a fine collection of Danish art dating from the late 19th century to the present day, including works by JF Willumsen, Asger Jorn and Richard Mortensen.
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Duus Vinkjælder
A superb way to cap off the evening is with a glass of wine at this smoulderingly romantic 300-year-old candlelit wine cellar in Jens Bangs Stenhus. If you can’t hear your lover’s sweet nothings over your rumbling tum, there’s plenty of traditional Danish food on offer here too.
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Helligåndsklostret
An alley between the Aalborg Historiske Museum and post office leads to the rambling Helligåndsklostret, which dates from 1431 and is home to some fascinating frescoes. The interior can only be visited on a guided tour arranged through the tourist office.
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Penny Lane
A heavenly little delicatessen offering its own freshly baked bread, local cheeses and cured meats for fine picnicking, plus there’s an in-house café offering a standout brunch platter (99kr) or snack-worthy sandwiches, quiche, cake and tarts.
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Aalborg Historiske Museum
A block west of Budolfi Domkirke is the Aalborg Historiske Museum, with artefacts from prehistory to the present and furnishings and interiors that hint at the wealth Aalborg’s merchants enjoyed during the Renaissance.
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Caféministeriet
Generous portions of fresh café fare includes burgers, sandwiches, salads and so on. The cool crowd seated inside and out on the summer terrace seem indifferent to the slow service. Becomes a popular drinking spot later in the night.
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Budolfi Domkirke
This 12th-century cathedral marks the centre of the old town and its elegant carillon can be heard throughout town every hour, on the hour. Its whitewashed interior creates an almost Mediterranean ambience.
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Café Klostertorvet
A funky, laid-back café with a studenty feel, thanks largely to its dirt-cheap meals (baguettes, lasagne and the like), strong coffee, cheap house wine and backgammon-playing clientele.
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Aalborghus Slot
The mid-16th-century Aalborghus Slot, near the waterfront, is more an administrative office than a castle but there’s a small dungeon you can visit.
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Schak Nielsen
This fishmonger sells cheap takeaway fish burgers and a range of fishy morsels, from sushi to fish and chips. Cheap and cheerful, and perfect for quelling hunger pangs on a budget.
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Hjelmerstald
The neighbourhood of half-timbered houses around Vor Frue Kirke on Peder Barkes Gade are worth seeing, particularly the cobbled street Hjelmerstald.
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Super Brugsen
For self-caterers, the Super Brugsen supermarket is a block south of the cathedral; the bakery here opens at 7.30am.
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Vor Frue Kirke
Vor Frue Kirke is a worth seeing, particularly the cobbled street Hjelmerstald.
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