Czech restaurants in Czech Republic
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Staročeská Krčma
A very good traditional Czech tavern, Staročeská Krčma specialises in huge portions of grilled meats, such as steaks, pork and chicken. The setting is meant to evoke an old-fashioned koliba (inn or country cottage), with big wooden tables, an open fireplace and stacks of wood sitting around. The pork dishes excel, while the steaks are only good. Reserve in advance, especially on weekends.
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Hanácacká Hospoda
Just when you're finally getting to grips with a Czech menu, this incredibly popular spot lists everything in the local Haná dialect. It's worth persevering though because the Moravian meals are robust, tasty and supreme value.
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V Zátiší
‘Still Life’ is one of Prague’s top restaurants, famed for the quality of its cuisine (which was rewarded with a Michelin recommendation in 2007). The décor is bold and modern, with dark wood, quirky lamps and candle-holders, and bold stripes of red and orange – there’s even a wall fashioned from stacked books. Of the dozen or so main courses on offer, four are seafood and two or three are vegetarian. There are also gourmet versions of traditional Czech dishes – the crispy roast duckling with red cabbage and herb dumplings is superb. There’s a two-course lunch menu, including one drink (695Kč), or you can lash out on the five-course degustation menu (1595Kč; plus 895Kč ex…
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U Matěje Kotrby
It’s only 50m away from the tourist trap that is U Fleků, but this place is the real deal – an atmospheric Czech pub strewn with more bric-a-brac, musical instruments and old photos than the average antique shop and, more importantly, sporting a menu of classic Czech grub from goulash made with Pilsner Urquell to pork knuckle braised in dark beer, mustard and horseradish. There’s also a range of traditional ‘beer snacks’ including utopenci (sausage pickled in vinegar), Czech cheeses with walnuts and olives, and libová tlačenka (pork brawn, or potted head), amusingly translated on the menu as ‘home-made headcheese’.
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Chudoba
This upscale Czech tavern-restaurant occupies a choice corner on a leafy section of Vinohradská. The customers are mostly young professionals and couples out for an after-work drink and a very good and reasonably priced Czech meal. The décor plays with the ‘Olde Vinohrady’ theme, with sepia-tone photos on the wall and polished wooden floors. The food is a mix of Czech and Continental, with standards like roast duck and goulash sharing the menu with pork ribs and a very hearty meat fondue. There’s a sidewalk terrace in nice weather.
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Branický Sklípek
This is one of the few rough-and-ready, old-fashioned beer halls left in central Prague, serving meaty, good-value Czech dishes washed down with cheap beer. Menus and staff are Czech only and service can be grumpy, which puts off most tourists, but persevere – this is the real deal, serving up some of the finest pork, dumplings and sauerkraut in town (look for purkmistrová mísa on the menu). Nonsmokers, beware –the atmosphere is smoky enough to kipper a truckload of herring.
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Zlatý Klas
Easily the best and most tourist-friendly of the traditional Czech pubs in the immediate Anděl area, Zlatý klas offers super-fresh ‘tank beer’ (tankové pivo), a local badge of honour, meaning the beer is served from large tanks and is free of the carbon dioxide used to pump the beer through the taps. It also offers well-done Czech grub, such as roast pork, goulash and fried breast of chicken in a kitsch but comfortable space. The service is fast and friendly.
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U Maltézských Rytířů
‘At the Maltese Knights’ is a cosy and romantic olde-worlde restaurant, with candlelit tables tucked into niches in the stone-and-brick Gothic vaults downstairs (the ground-floor tables are much less atmospheric). Classic Bohemian offerings include roast wild boar with rosehip sauce, and organic carp stuffed with tomato and mushroom, but there are also international dishes such as steak Chateaubriand, and a couple of vegetarian dishes; it’s a popular spot, so book well ahead.
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Restaurant Peklo
Peklo is an eerily atmospheric restaurant set in a stone-and-brick vaulted wine-cellar beneath the grounds of Strahov Monastery (p000) - it was named Peklo ('Hell') because the gardens above are called 'Paradise'. The menu of Czech and international cuisine is heavy on grilled and roast meat and filled with infernal puns, from filet mignon diavolo (flambéed steak with potato dumplings) to chicken à la Mefisto (roast chicken with caramelised onions and sour cherry sauce).
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Na Urale
A formerly grotty Czech pub that’s greatly cleaned up its act in recent years, adding some beautiful crimson walls and solid stone-tile floors. The kitchen has also had an upgrade, but the prices for well-done Czech dishes such as guláš and roast pork are barely higher than at a typical workers’ pub. Na Urale anchors an increasingly interesting set of shops on lovely Puškinovo náměstí (Pushkin Square), which now includes both an Italian and a Japanese grocery store.
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U Neklana
U Neklana is a welcoming local pub nestled in the corner of one of Prague’s coolest apartment buildings, a Cubist classic dating from 1915. Decked out in the cheerful red colours of the Budvar brewery, it dishes up hearty Czech fare such as potato and mushroom soup served in a scooped-out loaf of rye bread (the menu is in English and German as well as Czech), and there’s a hits-of-the-‘80s jukebox providing a suitably retro soundtrack.
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U Míkuláše Dačíckého
An honest-to-goodness, old-fashioned vinárna (wine restaurant). These slightly more upmarket wine-oriented equivalents of the beer-focused hospody (pubs) – complete with traditional atmosphere and excellent Czech cooking – have been dying out in recent years. The owners here have gone for the ‘Ye Olde Middle Ages’ look, with dark woods, red tablecloths, and pictures showing the lords enjoying their wine. Reserve in advance.
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Pastička
A warm, inviting ground floor pub with a little garden out the back, Pastička is great for a beer or a meal. The décor is part 1920s Prague and part Irish pub. In the evenings, the rows of tables stretching past the bar are normally filled with students. Most come for the beer, but the mix of international and traditional Czech dishes is very good. The garden is popular with a local office crowd at lunchtime.
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U Zlaté Hrušky
‘At the Golden Pear’ is a cosy, wood-panelled gourmets’ corner, serving beautifully prepared Bohemian fish, fowl and game dishes and frequented as much by locals and visiting dignitaries as by tourists (the Czech foreign ministry is just up the road, and Margaret Thatcher once dined here). In summer get a table in its leafy zahradní restaurace (garden restaurant) across the street.
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Kolkovna
Owned and operated by the Pilsner Urquell brewery, Kolkovna is a stylish, modern take on the traditional Prague beer hall, with décor by top Czech designers, and posh (but hearty) versions of classic Czech dishes such as goulash, roast duck and Moravian Sparrow, including the Czech favourite, pork and dumplings (the dish of the day is only 95Kč). All washed down with exquisite Urquell beer, of course.
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Klub Architektů
Trust an architects' society to combine a candlelit 12th-century cellar with exposed industrial ducting and modern metalwork...whatever, they're doing something right, as this place is always busy. The extensive menu caters to vegetarians and vegans as well as carnivores but, as in any place with a big menu, the daily specials are always a good idea.
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Hanavský Pavilón
Perched on a terrace high above the river, this ornate, neobaroque pavilion dating from 1891 houses a smart restaurant with a postcard-perfect view of the Vltava bridges – from April to September you can dine on the outdoor terrace. There’s a three-course set menu (from 375Kč) of Czech classics.
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U Modré Kachničky
A chintzy, baroque hunting lodge hidden away on a quiet side street, 'At the Blue Duckling' is a plush, old-fashioned place with quiet, candlelit nooks perfect for a romantic dinner. The menu is heavy on traditional Bohemian poultry, game and fish dishes.
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Špaliček
Brno's oldest (and just maybe its 'meatiest') restaurant sits on the edge of the Cabbage market. Ignore the irony and dig into the huge Moravian meals partnered with something from the good local wine list.
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U Anděla
After you order, wander round and look at the fascinating memorabilia displayed in every nook and cranny. Don't be too long though because the service is prompt and the Moravian food very good.
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U Tři Sedláku
Locals celebrate that nothing much has changed at U Tři Sedláku since it opened in 1897. Tasty meaty dishes go with the Pilsner Urquell constantly being shuffled to busy tables.
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Diana Restaurant
The garden Diana Restaurant sits at the base of the hilltop viewing tower near Teplá. The view, needless to say, is good enough to eat.
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