Church Of St James

Lonely Planet review

The great Gothic mass of kostel sv Jakuba, to the east of Týnský dvůr, began in the 14th century as a Minorite monastery church, but was given a beautiful baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Pride of place inside goes to the over-the-top tomb of Count Jan Vratislav of Mitrovice, an 18th-century lord chancellor of Bohemia, in the northern aisle.

In the midst of the gilt and stucco is a grisly memento: on the inside of the western wall (look up to the right as you enter) hangs a shrivelled human arm. The story goes that around 1400 a thief tried to steal the jewels from the statue of the Virgin. Legend claims the Virgin grabbed his wrist in such an iron grip that his arm had to be lopped off. (The truth may not be far behind: the church was a favourite of the guild of butchers, who may have administered their own justice.)

It's well worth a visit to enjoy St James' splendid pipe organ and famous acoustics. Recitals - free ones at 10:30 or 11:00 after Sunday Mass - and occasional concerts are not always advertised by ticket agencies, so check the noticeboard outside.