Museum of Decorative Arts

Lonely Planet review

This neo-Renaissance museum, opened in 1900, arose as part of a European movement to encourage a return to the aesthetic values sacrificed to the Industrial Revolution. Its four halls are a feast for the eyes, full of 16th- to 19th-century artifacts, including furniture, tapestries, porcelain and a fabulous collection of glasswork.

The building itself is a work of art, the façade decorated with reliefs representing the various decorative arts and the Bohemian towns that are famous for them. The staircase leading up from the entrance hall to the main exhibition on the 2nd floor is beautifully decorated with colourful ceramics, stained-glass windows and frescoes representing graphic arts, metal-working, ceramics, glass-making and gold-smithing. It leads to the ornate Votive Hall, which houses the Karlštejn Treasure, a hoard of 14th-century silver found hidden in the walls of Karlštejn Castle in the 19th century.

To the right is a textiles exhibit and a fascinating collection of clocks and watches, but the good stuff is to the left in the glass and ceramics hall - exquisite baroque glassware, a fine collection of Meissen porcelain, and a range of Czech glass, ceramics and furniture in Cubist, Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, the best pieces by Josef Gočár and Pavel Janák. The graphic arts section has some fine Art Nouveau posters, and the gold and jewellery exhibit contains some real curiosities - amid the Bohemian garnet brooches, 14th-century chalices, diamond-studded monstrances and Art Nouveau silverware you will find a Chinese rhino-horn vase in a silver mount, a delicate nautilus shell engraved with battle scenes, and a silver watch-case in the shape of a skull.

Labels are in Czech but detailed English and French texts are available in each room. What you see is only a fraction of the collection; other bits appear now and then in single-theme exhibitions.