Mediterranean restaurants in Prague
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A
Gitanes
Twee meets twisted at this idiosyncratic restaurant, where a technicolour storm of floral print wallpaper and upholstery meets a gallery of weird art – check out the upside-down table on the ceiling – to create an atmosphere akin to an English tearoom designed by Salvador Dali. On acid. The food is hearty and full-on, especially the Balkan specialities – dishes such as čevapčiči (chargrilled spicy meatballs) and sač (veal and lamb roasted over an open fire) are flung out like macho, meat-eating challenges, while the paella for two could probably feed four. Lighter dishes include smažené ančovičky (fried whitebait), chicken risotto and a range of salads.
reviewed
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B
Oliva
A small, friendly, family-run restaurant focusing on fresh Mediterranean cuisine, Oliva has become a victim of its own popularity. A menu of carefully prepared dishes that include rocket salad with caramelised red onion, olives, pine nuts and parmesan, roast octopus with okra and grilled peppers, and pan-fried sea bass with olive, anchovy and tomato has pulled in so many customers that on weekend evenings the waitstaff can be overwhelmed. But the food is so good that it’s well worth enduring the occasional spell of slow service.
reviewed
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C
Rio’s Vyšehrad
Located opposite the Church of Sts Peter & Paul in the Vyšehrad fortress, this is an attractive modern restaurant set in an ancient building. There’s elegant indoor dining room and an informal terrace, but the main attraction is the garden, a lovely spot for an outdoor meal in summer. The international gourmet menu includes dishes such as salad of seared tuna with Japanese pickled ginger, fillet of salmon with Pommery champagne sauce, and chargrilled Brazilian beef, plus Czech classics such as roast duck.
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