Café entertainment in Prague
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A
První Holešovická Kavárna
This sterile, street-level coffee house is about as intellectual as it gets in the far eastern end of Holešovice. The name means ‘First Holešovice Coffee house’, but it isn’t quite accurate. The old Globe Bookstore & Coffeehouse on Janovského (now Ouky Douky, above) was technically first, but this is a true survivor. Average coffee drinks, indifferent service and minimal food offerings don’t seem to diminish the charm; it’s packed most afternoons and evenings. Excellent original art occasionally features on the walls.
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B
Café Gaspar Kasper
Gaspar Kasper is a convivial, nonsmoking café-bar in an L-shaped nook overlooking the courtyard at the Celetná Theatre, hidden away from the tourist crowds. Its arty credentials include lots of theatrical literature lying around for your perusal, and a naked scarlet lady with green nipples perched above the bar. The inexpensive snack menu includes sandwiches, potato pancakes and cheeseburgers.
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C
Těsně Vedle Burundi
A curious pub–coffee house hybrid that draws a mix of intellectuals, students, ageing rockers, and garden-variety neighbourhood drinkers. It has a vaguely old-school dissident whiff about the place, making it a more satisfying spot to linger than the swish bars in the city centre. Limited food options include a couple of salads and toasts.
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D
Velryba
The ‘Whale’ is an arty café-bar – usually quiet enough to have a real conversation – with vegetarian-friendly snacks, a smoky back room and a basement art gallery. A clientele of Czech students, local office workers and foreign backpackers attracted by the low prices keep the place jumping.
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E
Institut Français
Prague's French cultural institute has a nice little café at the back (go in the main entrance and bear right), frequented by French expats but open to all, where you can read the latest issues of Le Monde and Le Figaro over café au lait and a croissant or pain au chocolat.
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F
Café Bambus
Bambus is a dimly lit and often smoky café-bar sporting potted bamboo plants, a pleasantly laid-back atmosphere, and a good cocktail menu. It pulls in a mixed crowd of young locals plus occasional backpackers who have found their way from nearby hostels.
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G
Park Café
Perched on top of precipitous Riegrovy Park, this bustling beer garden has awesome night-time views of the castle, a big screen showing sport and the opportunity to play table football and table hockey with half of Prague. Pilsner Urquell and Gambrinus.
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