Bar entertainment in Prague
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Jáma
Jáma (‘the Hollow’), southeast off Vodičkova, is a popular American expat bar with vaulted ceilings plastered with old rock gig posters ranging from Led Zep and REM to Kiss and Shania Twain. There’s a leafy little beer garden out the back shaded by lime and walnut trees, smiling staff serving up Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus and Velkopopvický Kozel on draught, and a menu that includes good burgers, steaks, ribs and chicken wings.
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Zvonařká
Sitting at the far end of a quiet residential street where Vinohrady spills over into the Nusle valley, Zvonařká has a stylish, minimalist interior, but its biggest attraction is outdoors – a broad, tree-shaded terrace overhanging a steep hill, with expansive views across the valley to Vyšehrad, a great place for a beer on a summer evening.
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Saints
Sealing the deal on Prague's booming 'gay quarter' in Vinohrady, this British-run bar is laidback, friendly and serves decent drinks. With a multinational staff speaking many languages, for newcomers it's the perfect entrée to the local scene.
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La Bodega Flamenca
La Bodega is an atmospheric, red-brick cellar, painted and plastered to look like an adobe shack. With the Latin music turned down low, the buzz of conversation and the flickering candlelight, the crowd seems a bit more reflective (well, at least compared to the crew at Fraktal next door). Most people come for the sangria or the beer, but there’s also a nice selection of tapas on hand, including tortilla español, chorizo al vino tinto (chorizo sausage stewed in red wine) and gambas pil-pil (prawns in garlic and chilli). There’s also live music and dance some nights.
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Klub Újezd
Klub Újezd is one of Prague’s many ‘alternative’ bars, spread over three floors (DJs in the cellar, and a café upstairs) and filled with a fascinating collection of handmade furniture and fittings, original art and weird wrought-iron sculptures. Clamber onto a two-tonne bar stool in the agreeably grungy street-level bar, and sip on a beer while you watch a thick rope of herbal-scented smoke uncoil across the ceiling beside the scaly, fire-breathing sea-monster that dangles over your head. Trippy.
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Fraktal
This subterranean space under a corner house near Letenské náměstí is easily the friendliest bar this side of the Vltava. This is especially true for English speakers, as Fraktal serves as a kind of unofficial expat watering hole. It serves the Pilsner Urquell family of beers, including popular 10° Gambrinus. There’s also good Mexican-style nosh for spacing beers. The only drawback is the early closing time. Last orders are at 11.30pm, and every year they seem to bring it forward another 30 minutes.
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Duende
Barely five minutes’ walk from Charles Bridge but half a world away in atmosphere, this cute little bar is the opposite of touristy – a bohemian drinking den that pulls in an arty, mixed-age crowd of locals. Here you can enjoy a drink while casting an eye over the fascinating photos and quirky art that cover the wall, or listen to live guitar or violin. As well as wines and cocktails, the bar serves the excellent Bernard beer for 29Kč per 0.5L.
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Mill Kavarna
This artists' café-bar in Kampa Park has existed in various guises since the communist era, but you might still hear it called Tato Kejkej, its most recent previous incarnation. One or two tourists are starting to find their way over the wooden footbridge beside the wooden mill wheel, but mainly it's local alternative types who fill the smoky, dimly lit interior, arriving for coffee, beer and the occasional live gig.
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Kozička
The ‘Little Goat’ is a buzzing, red-brick basement bar decorated with cute steel goat sculptures, serving Krušovice on tap at 40Kč for 0.5L (though watch out – the bartenders will occasionally sling you a 1L tuplák if they think you’re a tourist). It fills up later in the evening with a mostly Czech crowd, and is a very civilised setting for a late-night session.
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U Zavěšenýho Kafe
This is a superb little drinking den barely five minutes’ walk from the castle. Head for the cosy, wood-panelled back room, quirkily decorated with weird art and mechanical curiosities by local artist Kuba Krejci (all for sale), and an ancient jukebox crammed with Beatles, Stones and Czech rock. Foaming Gambrinus is only 25Kč a half-litre, and the coffee (40Kč for a cappuccino) is damn fine too.
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Jágr's Sport Bar
Owned by NHL ice-hockey superstar Jaromír Jágr - mainstay of the Pittsburgh Penguins in the '90s, and winner of Olympic gold with the Czech national team in '98 - this cavernous sports bar offers fans four large projection screens and no fewer than 40 TVs, so you needn't miss a moment of that important match. Better priced than other sports bars, but get in early - it fills up quickly before big events.
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Hapu
Visiting Hapu is like popping around for a drink in a popular friend's living room. This shabby-chic, shallow basement is jam-packed even on weeknights with a familiar, frequently English-speaking crew who feel comfortable enough to bring the dog along if they please. The whole point, though, is that the place mixes a mean cocktail - arguably the best in town - with freshly squeezed fruit juices.
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St Nicholas Café
Descend from the bustle of Malá Strana into this dark and atmospheric Gothic cellar, a favourite midday refuge in the heart of the tourist zone. Dimly lit alcoves, flickering candlelight and worn wooden tables make an appealing setting for a few quiet beers or a bottle of wine; later in the evening it gets busier and develops a cool, jazzy atmosphere, with live music on weekend nights.
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Back Doors
The owners say this funky cellar bar is inspired by similar spaces in New York and Amsterdam (though the subterranean Gothic cellar look could really only be Prague). It offers decent Czech DJs and a relaxed vibe most nights, though it can get stuffy on a crowded weekend night. If you’re hungry, there’s a full menu of well-done international dishes.
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Friends
Friends is a welcoming gay music-and-video bar serving excellent coffee, cocktails and wine. It’s a good spot to sit back with a drink and check out the crowd, or join in the party spirit on assorted theme nights, which range from Czech pop music and movies to cowboy parties. DJs add their own spin from 10pm Wednesday to Saturday.
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Stromoffka
This popular student bar, with occasional DJs and dancing downstairs, draws a local, early 20-ish crowd, but is large enough to be welcoming to newcomers. It tends to get packed out late on Fridays and Saturdays, when the lower-level bar is three-deep in drink orders and sweaty bodies are pounding out the beat behind.
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Popo Café Petl
A popular student dive, usually packed to the rafters and hopelessly smoky, but loads of fun at the same time. Staropramen is on tap. If that doesn’t appeal, there’s tons of cheap wine on offer and tables filled with drunken members of the opposite sex. It doesn’t get any better.
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Dog’s Bollocks
This run-of-the-mill bar and nightspot is just down from the Staropramen brewery, and is a decent choice if you’re staying in the area and don’t want to go too far for your fun. In spite of the English-friendly name, it draws mostly Czech students and young professionals. Open late.
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Casa Blu
This Latin American bar feels a little secretive, and if the windows on Kozí are covered over, just turn the corner onto Bílkova to be let in. Inside, street signs in Spanish, Aztec blankets and lots of tequila create a cosy atmosphere. Get here before 18:00 to catch happy hour.
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Parukářka
Ramshackle wooden hut in park overlooking Žižkov, with plenty of outdoor tables and lots of sweet-smelling smoke wafting about in the evenings. Gambrinus on tap.
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Letní Bar
Basically a shack serving Budvar in plastic cups, this is the place to pick up a beer before hitting the little beach at the northern end of the island.
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Club Stella
Club Stella is an intimate, candlelit café-bar that seems to be the first place everyone recommends when you ask about gay and lesbian bars in Prague. There’s a long narrow bar where you can just squeeze onto a bar stool, an armchair-filled lounge that looks like somebody’s living room, and a welcoming crowd of locals. Ring the doorbell to get in.
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