Things to do in Bohemia
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The Colonnades
The spa proper starts at Poštovní bridge, where rows of late-19th- and early-20th-century mansions face off against the blockish communist-era (1976) Hotel Thermal sanatorium across the river.
The 13th spring is the most famous but there are 15 springs housed in or near five colonnades (kolonády) along the Teplá.
The first is the whitewashed and wrought-iron Park spring colonnade.
Further on is the biggest and most popular, the neo-Renaissance Mill colonnade, with five different springs, rooftop statues depicting the months of the year and a small bandstand. Petra Restaurant, opposite, is the spot (but not the original building) where Peter the Great allegedly stayed in…
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Museum of Plzeň's Historical Underground
The extraordinary Museum of Plzeň's Historical Underground is a web of passages under the town. The earliest were probably dug in the 14th century, perhaps for beer production or defence; the latest date from the 19th century. Of an estimated 11km excavated in the 1970s and '80s, some 500m is open to the public.
Plzeň's wealthier set used to have wells in their cellars. Overuse led to severe water shortages until a municipal water system was established in the 15th century. When wells dried up they were often filled with rubbish and buried; these have yielded an amazing trove of artefacts. The tunnels are dotted with exhibits of wooden water pumps, mining tools, pewter, …
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Maleček
During summer rent a variety of craft for lazy hours on the Vltava - canoes, kayaks - even inner tubes. Reliable companies include Maleček. Companies usually offer one-way transport to towns upriver, where you can begin your river journey back to Český Krumlov; around seven hours from Vyšší Brod, five hours from Rožmberk, or three from Branná. En route take things leisurely at riverside beer gardens and camp sites.
You can also head north from Český Krumlov to Zlatá' Koruna (five hours) and Boršov nad Vltavou (nine hours). Shorter, less expensive trips are also available. Maleček also runs more sedate river trips through Český Krumlov on wooden rafts seating up to…
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Prazdroj (Pilsner Urquell) Brewery
Across the Radbuza is the Prazdroj (Pilsner Urquell) Brewery that put Plzeň on the map, entered via the gate that has graced the label of its beer since 6 October 1842. Individual visitors can join an interesting (for beer aficionados) one-hour tour with a film, a visit to the brewing rooms and chilly fermentation cellars and, of course, beer tasting. You can also visit at the weekend, but you have to book ahead.
Head east on Pražská, then cross the river and bear left onto U Prazdroje; the gate is near a pedestrian bridge, 750m from náměstí Republiky. Through a similar gate 500m on is the Gambrinus brewery. Sorry, no tours here.
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Krumlov Chateau
Perched atop a soaring cliff, and capped by its proto-psychedelic Round tower, Krumlov Chateau is one of the most audaciously located sights in South Bohemia.
Český Krumlov was first documented in 1253, when the local ruling barons, the Vítkovecs, built their castle here. In 1302 it was acquired by the lords of Rožmberks, the biggest land owners in Bohemia, and in the late 16th century Vilém Rožmberk ordered a Renaissance-style makeover. When their line expired it was handed to the Eggenbergs in 1622. The Schwarzenbergs took the castle over in 1719, and owned it until 1945.
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Budvar Brewery
Touring the modern Budvar Brewery with all its sights, smells and science is less interesting than product sampling in the city's beer halls. Nevertheless, a pilgrimage to the home of Budvar, three kilometres north of the city (take bus No 2), is still mandatory. Book the 60-minute tour in advance by phoning the brewery, or through the tourist information office. Ask for the English language tour. Afterwards put your feet up in the attached Budvar beer hall.
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Patton Memorial Pilsen
North of the Great synagogue is the interesting Patton Memorial Pilsen detailing the liberation of Plzeň in 1945 by the American army under General George Patton. Especially poignant are the handwritten memories of former American soldiers who have returned to Plzeň in a new century, and the museum's response to the communist-era revisionist fabrications that claimed Soviet troops, not Americans, were responsible for the city's liberation.
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Old Town Hall
One of the most charming buildings in Bohemia is Plzeň's Old Town Hall. The bottom four floors, built in 1558, are pure Italian Renaissance. A few years later the top floor, tower, multiple gables and little brass flags were added; all it needs is a liveried ensemble doing trumpet fanfares from the roof. The sgraffito on the front dates from the 16th century. There is also a model of the old city centre here. In front is a 1681 plague column.
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Diocese Museum
In the former Franciscan monastery (klášter Františkánů) next door to the Assumption Church is the Diocese museum with tours of a fine collection of church statues. The real reason to visit is to see the little St Barbara chapel (kaple sv Barbory) on the cloister's eastern side; structurally unaltered since it was built in the 13th century, it bears the remains of decorative frescoes added as early as the 15th century.
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Brewery museum
The Brewery museum offers an insight into how beer was made (and drunk) in the days before Prazdroj was founded. Highlights include a mock-up of a 19th-century pub, a huge wooden beer tankard from Siberia and a collection of beer mats. All have English captions and there's a good English written guide available. Look out for the pic of Louis Armstrong enjoying a cold one, and enjoy a glass of tasty unfiltered beer afterwards in the attached pub.
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náměstí Republiky
Plzeň's main square, náměstí Republiky, is the hub of the city's lively and attractive old town. It is particularly notable for the gigantic Gothic St Bartholomew church which towers over the surrounding façades from the centre of the square. The southern half of the square becomes a lively craft market eight times a year, mainly around public holidays. Check at the helpful City Information Centre for exact dates.
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Náměstí Přemysla Otakara II
This eclectic jumble of arcaded buildings, centred on Samson's fountain (Samsonova kašna; 1727), is the broadest plaza in the Czech Republic, spanning 133m. Among the architectural treats is the Renaissance 1555 town hall (radnice), which received a baroque face-lift in 1731 from AE Martinelli. The allegorical figures on the balustrade - Justice, Wisdom, Courage and Prudence - are matched by an exotic quartet of bronze gargoyles.
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St Bartholomew church
The most notable building in náměstí Republiky, is the hub of the city's lively and attractive old town. It is particularly notable for the gigantic Gothic St Bartholomew church, which towers over the surrounding façades from the centre of the square. Have a look inside at the delicate marble 'Pilsen Madonna' (dating from about 1390) on the main altar, or climb 301 steps to the top of the tower for serious views.
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Viewing Tower
For light relief, follow one of the steep trails from the Teplá into fragrant woods filled with statues and decaying pavilions. One of the most popular trails ascends 1.5km from the Grandhotel Pupp to a hilltop viewing tower. The woods on the way to the lookout are peppered with monuments, including one to that crusty old bourgeois, Karl Marx, who visited Karlsbad (Karlovy Vary) three times between 1874 and 1876.
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Egon Schiele Centrum
Below the square, in a former brewery, is Egon Schiele Centrum . Established in 1993, this excellent private gallery has a respectable retrospective of Viennese painter Egon Schiele (1890-1918), who lived briefly in Krumlov in 1911, and raised the ire of townsfolk by hiring young girls as nude models. For this and other sins he was eventually driven out. It also houses temporary exhibitions of other A-list artists.
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Water Tower
At the end of Pražská is a stone water tower dating from 1530 and part of the first town water system (this tower supplied fountains in the square until the beginning of the 20th century).
Opposite is a former arcade of medieval butchers' stalls (masné krámy), which is now part of the West Bohemian gallery with its changing exhibits of modern Czech art.
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Moser glasswork shop
The Moser company opened its first shop in Karlovy Vary in 1857 and by 1893 had established a glassworks in the town. Less than a decade later Moser became the official supplier to the Imperial Court of Franz Josef I, who obviously put in a good word with his friend, King Edward VII, as Moser also became the official supplier of glass to British royalty in 1907.
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West Bohemian Museum
The West Bohemian Museum fills a magnificent agglomeration of buildings. In the basement the original armoury (zbrojnice) features a weapons collection; the ground floor has changing exhibits while the second floor houses an exhibit of glass and porcelain in the magnificent Art Nouveau Jubilee hall (Jubilejní sál).
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North Bohemia Fine Arts Gallery
Along Michalská at the southwest corner of Litoměřice's main square you’ll find a house where esteemed 18-th century architect Ottavio Broggio left his mark: the excellent North Bohemia Fine Arts Gallery, which features the priceless Renaissance panels of the Litoměřice Altarpiece.
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Budějovická Gate
To approach Krumlov Chateau from the north, go via the Budějovická Gate (1598); pass the post office and go through the Red gate (Červená brána) into the chateau's first courtyard. Below the entrance bridge are two brown (and pretty unhappy) bears, traditional residents since the 16th century.
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Černej velbloud
One half is a cruisy kavárna with occasional live music and eclectic snacks, and the other half a camel-bedecked (velbloud means 'camel') unpretentious venue with lots of interesting sounds. In any week you'll hear anything from old-school ska to drum 'n' bass.
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Rhodos
More 'Alan the Very Good' than Alexander the Great, this spot serves up Greek fare in leafy surroundings with a sunny skylight. The 'assemble yourself' gyros with pita bread is good value and we recommend you finish with a slice of naughtily sweet baklava.
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Chateau Theatre
Just across the bridge behind Krumlov Chateau is the rococo Chateau Theatre, which can only be seen on Krumlov Chateau Tour III. This amazing theatre is one of the only two left in the world that still has all its original decorated stage set and working wooden machinery.
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Murals by Mikuláš Aleš
The streets of Nový Plzeň's original 'chessboard' layout are good for browsing.
At least three buildings bear bright Murals by Mikuláš Aleš, a central figure of the so-called 'National Theatre generation' of the Czech National Revival.
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Dominik Jazz Rock Café
Get lost in the nooks and crannies of this vast student hangout, or take on Plzeň's best at pool or foosball (table soccer). There are cool beats all day, every day, and good-value salads and sandwiches at lunchtime. After dark it gets enjoyably raucous.
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