Things to do in Plzeň
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Museum of Plzeň's Historical Underground
The extraordinary Museum of Plzeň's Historical Underground is a web of passages under the town. The earliest were probably dug in the 14th century, perhaps for beer production or defence; the latest date from the 19th century. Of an estimated 11km excavated in the 1970s and '80s, some 500m is open to the public.
Plzeň's wealthier set used to have wells in their cellars. Overuse led to severe water shortages until a municipal water system was established in the 15th century. When wells dried up they were often filled with rubbish and buried; these have yielded an amazing trove of artefacts. The tunnels are dotted with exhibits of wooden water pumps, mining tools, pewter, …
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Prazdroj (Pilsner Urquell) Brewery
Across the Radbuza is the Prazdroj (Pilsner Urquell) Brewery that put Plzeň on the map, entered via the gate that has graced the label of its beer since 6 October 1842. Individual visitors can join an interesting (for beer aficionados) one-hour tour with a film, a visit to the brewing rooms and chilly fermentation cellars and, of course, beer tasting. You can also visit at the weekend, but you have to book ahead.
Head east on Pražská, then cross the river and bear left onto U Prazdroje; the gate is near a pedestrian bridge, 750m from náměstí Republiky. Through a similar gate 500m on is the Gambrinus brewery. Sorry, no tours here.
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Patton Memorial Pilsen
North of the Great synagogue is the interesting Patton Memorial Pilsen detailing the liberation of Plzeň in 1945 by the American army under General George Patton. Especially poignant are the handwritten memories of former American soldiers who have returned to Plzeň in a new century, and the museum's response to the communist-era revisionist fabrications that claimed Soviet troops, not Americans, were responsible for the city's liberation.
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Old Town Hall
One of the most charming buildings in Bohemia is Plzeň's Old Town Hall. The bottom four floors, built in 1558, are pure Italian Renaissance. A few years later the top floor, tower, multiple gables and little brass flags were added; all it needs is a liveried ensemble doing trumpet fanfares from the roof. The sgraffito on the front dates from the 16th century. There is also a model of the old city centre here. In front is a 1681 plague column.
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Diocese Museum
In the former Franciscan monastery (klášter Františkánů) next door to the Assumption Church is the Diocese museum with tours of a fine collection of church statues. The real reason to visit is to see the little St Barbara chapel (kaple sv Barbory) on the cloister's eastern side; structurally unaltered since it was built in the 13th century, it bears the remains of decorative frescoes added as early as the 15th century.
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Brewery museum
The Brewery museum offers an insight into how beer was made (and drunk) in the days before Prazdroj was founded. Highlights include a mock-up of a 19th-century pub, a huge wooden beer tankard from Siberia and a collection of beer mats. All have English captions and there's a good English written guide available. Look out for the pic of Louis Armstrong enjoying a cold one, and enjoy a glass of tasty unfiltered beer afterwards in the attached pub.
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náměstí Republiky
Plzeň's main square, náměstí Republiky, is the hub of the city's lively and attractive old town. It is particularly notable for the gigantic Gothic St Bartholomew church which towers over the surrounding façades from the centre of the square. The southern half of the square becomes a lively craft market eight times a year, mainly around public holidays. Check at the helpful City Information Centre for exact dates.
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St Bartholomew church
The most notable building in náměstí Republiky, is the hub of the city's lively and attractive old town. It is particularly notable for the gigantic Gothic St Bartholomew church, which towers over the surrounding façades from the centre of the square. Have a look inside at the delicate marble 'Pilsen Madonna' (dating from about 1390) on the main altar, or climb 301 steps to the top of the tower for serious views.
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Water Tower
At the end of Pražská is a stone water tower dating from 1530 and part of the first town water system (this tower supplied fountains in the square until the beginning of the 20th century).
Opposite is a former arcade of medieval butchers' stalls (masné krámy), which is now part of the West Bohemian gallery with its changing exhibits of modern Czech art.
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West Bohemian Museum
The West Bohemian Museum fills a magnificent agglomeration of buildings. In the basement the original armoury (zbrojnice) features a weapons collection; the ground floor has changing exhibits while the second floor houses an exhibit of glass and porcelain in the magnificent Art Nouveau Jubilee hall (Jubilejní sál).
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Rhodos
More 'Alan the Very Good' than Alexander the Great, this spot serves up Greek fare in leafy surroundings with a sunny skylight. The 'assemble yourself' gyros with pita bread is good value and we recommend you finish with a slice of naughtily sweet baklava.
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Murals by Mikuláš Aleš
The streets of Nový Plzeň's original 'chessboard' layout are good for browsing.
At least three buildings bear bright Murals by Mikuláš Aleš, a central figure of the so-called 'National Theatre generation' of the Czech National Revival.
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Dominik Jazz Rock Café
Get lost in the nooks and crannies of this vast student hangout, or take on Plzeň's best at pool or foosball (table soccer). There are cool beats all day, every day, and good-value salads and sandwiches at lunchtime. After dark it gets enjoyably raucous.
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Chotešov House
Plzeň is less plastered with baroque façades than many Bohemian towns. The best Renaissance structures in the old centre are in and around the square. Check out Chotešov House and, around the corner, the delightful old Gerlach house.
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U Mansfelda
In a city of raucous pubs, this spot is a classier option with a summer terrace, an upstairs wine bar and interesting takes on Czech cuisine such as wild boar gulaš (spicy meat and potato soup).
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Assumption Church
South of the main square on Františkánská is the Assumption Church; when entering you pass an unusual crucifix with a clean-shaven Christ nailed to the cross by only one hand and one foot.
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Music Bar Anděl
By day a coolly hip café, the Anděl is transformed after dark into a rocking live-music venue featuring the best of touring Czech bands and occasional international acts.
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Great Synagogue
The neo-Renaissance Great Synagogue, the third-largest in the world after those in Jerusalem and Budapest, was built in 1892 by the 2000 or so Jews who lived in Plzeň then.
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Plzeňská Bašta
Wooden beams and cosy booths make this a nicely rustic spot for your first (and just maybe your best) Pilsner Urquell.
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Denní Bar & Pizzerie
Come for the interesting photographs of old Plzeň and stay for the tasty food in this snug little place.
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Kino Elektra
Film buffs can catch a flick before heading to the attached Rock Bar Elektra for late-night drinks and tunes.
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Archdeacon's House
The 1710 Archdeacon's House by Jakub Auguston, who was a local boy, is on the western side of the square.
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St Anne Church
South of the square on Smetany is the very baroque St Anne Church, another work by Jakub Auguston.
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Zach's Pub
Head to Zach's for live music, filling and tasty pub food and a suitably student atmosphere.
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Asia Bistro
Mr Han from Hanoi cooks up tasty Vietnamese fare including good spring rolls.
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