Things to do in Český Krumlov
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Maleček
During summer rent a variety of craft for lazy hours on the Vltava - canoes, kayaks - even inner tubes. Reliable companies include Maleček. Companies usually offer one-way transport to towns upriver, where you can begin your river journey back to Český Krumlov; around seven hours from Vyšší Brod, five hours from Rožmberk, or three from Branná. En route take things leisurely at riverside beer gardens and camp sites.
You can also head north from Český Krumlov to Zlatá' Koruna (five hours) and Boršov nad Vltavou (nine hours). Shorter, less expensive trips are also available. Maleček also runs more sedate river trips through Český Krumlov on wooden rafts seating up to…
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Krumlov Chateau
Perched atop a soaring cliff, and capped by its proto-psychedelic Round tower, Krumlov Chateau is one of the most audaciously located sights in South Bohemia.
Český Krumlov was first documented in 1253, when the local ruling barons, the Vítkovecs, built their castle here. In 1302 it was acquired by the lords of Rožmberks, the biggest land owners in Bohemia, and in the late 16th century Vilém Rožmberk ordered a Renaissance-style makeover. When their line expired it was handed to the Eggenbergs in 1622. The Schwarzenbergs took the castle over in 1719, and owned it until 1945.
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Egon Schiele Centrum
Below the square, in a former brewery, is Egon Schiele Centrum . Established in 1993, this excellent private gallery has a respectable retrospective of Viennese painter Egon Schiele (1890-1918), who lived briefly in Krumlov in 1911, and raised the ire of townsfolk by hiring young girls as nude models. For this and other sins he was eventually driven out. It also houses temporary exhibitions of other A-list artists.
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Budějovická Gate
To approach Krumlov Chateau from the north, go via the Budějovická Gate (1598); pass the post office and go through the Red gate (Červená brána) into the chateau's first courtyard. Below the entrance bridge are two brown (and pretty unhappy) bears, traditional residents since the 16th century.
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Chateau Theatre
Just across the bridge behind Krumlov Chateau is the rococo Chateau Theatre, which can only be seen on Krumlov Chateau Tour III. This amazing theatre is one of the only two left in the world that still has all its original decorated stage set and working wooden machinery.
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Convent of the Poor Clares
The Convent of the Poor Clares, down the hill from Krumlov Chateau, has pretty gardens that provide an escape from the tourist hordes. At the time of writing the convent was closed for refurbishment. Check with Infocentrum for the current status.
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Round Tower
From the second courtyard of Krumlov Chateau, you can climb the multi-hued Round Tower, painted in 1590 by Bartholomew Beránek. Another passageway leads into courtyards three and four, their walls covered in trompe l'oeil painting.
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Krčma v Šatlavské
Nirvana for meat-lovers is this barbecue cellar serving sizzling platters in a medieval labyrinth illuminated by candles and the flickering flames of open grills. Wash it all down with wine served in earthenware goblets. Book ahead.
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Marian Plague Column
The Marian Plague Column in náměstí Svornosti dates from from 1716. Several buildings here feature valuable stucco and painted decorations. See the hotel at No 13 and the house at No 14.
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Regional Museum
The Regional Museum features folk art from the Šumava region, archaeology, history, fine arts, furnishings and weapons. The highlight is a room-sized model of Český Krumlov (c 1800).
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Laibon
Candles and vaulted ceilings create a nicely 'boho' ambience in Bohemia's best vegetarian teahouse. Start with Middle Eastern and Indian flavours, and finish with fluffy blueberry dumplings.
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U Dwau Maryí
Dive into the authentic medieval interior and emerge onto a sunny riverside terrace. Inside or outside, the food and drink go down easily in this enjoyably raucous tavern.
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Minorite Monastery
Down the hill from Krumlov Chateau is the Minorite Monastery. At the time of writing it was closed for refurbishment. Check with Infocentrum for the current status.
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Lazebnický Bridge
To approach Krumlov Chateau from the south, cross the wooden Lazebnický Bridge and climb to the courtyard via the Chateau steps (Zámecké schody).
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Eggenberg Brewery
The former armoury is now the Eggenberg Brewery, built in 1630, and the source of the town's freshest (and cheapest) beer. Book tours at Infocentrum or Unios.
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Church of St Jošt
South from the chateau along Latrán you pass the former Church of St Jošt on the way to Lazebnický bridge, from where the Inner Town opens up.
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Cikánská jizba
Known locally as the Gypsy Room, this is the best spot in town to try the flavours of the Roma with pumping live music at weekends.
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Museum of Torture
Near Infocentrum you will find the Museum of Torture displaying ghoulish implements, and a heavy metal 'iron maiden' in the foyer.
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Church of St Vitus
From náměstí Svornosti, follow Horní uphill and past Kostelní to the 14th-century Church of St Vitus.
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Shakespeare & Sons
Shakespeare & Sons is good for English-language paperbacks. Cult movies are screened in a downstairs cinema.
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Town Hall
On Na ostrově, a tiny island with views across the river to the chateau, sits the 16th-century Town Hall.
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Papa's Living Restaurant
Try the hearty steak 'n' ribs in this riverside ode to the Mediterranean with good food and a silly name.
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Former Riding School
Behind the Chateau Theatre, a ramp to the right leads up to the former riding school, now a restaurant.
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Hrozen Music Bar
If you're into intense beats and foam parties, you'll probably love this Eurobrash kind of place.
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Jesuit College
Check out the 1588 Jesuit College, now housing the plush Hotel Růže.
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