Things to do in Cyprus
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Seven St Georges' Tavern
If only everyone was as loving and meticulous about food production and preparation as George, the tavern's owner. Everything you eat and drink in this place is grown, dried or pickled organically by the owner. He has a herb garden at the back, and a meat-smoking cabin from where drool-provoking smells tickle the nostrils. Even the wine is produced here, from organic home-grown grapes.
Your meze, the house speciality, comes in the usual trickle of olives and capers, beetroot and carrot salads, cold meats, casseroles and smoked ham. Everything is season-dependent so you might get hand-picked wild asparagus, herbed wild mushrooms, aubergines in tomato, or fantastically…
reviewed
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Zanettos Taverna
This place has a great reputation in the city, as it is allegedly one of the oldest traditional taverns. The locals flock here in their dozens, and it's definitely worth joining them. A great place for meze, it's hidden away in a slightly shady part of town, where the painted ladies sit in their doorways, waiting for business.
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Diving
If you love discovering remains, rocks or shipwrecks at the bottom of the sea, Cyprus is a perfect spot for a varied and interesting choice of dives. Either Larnaka or Lemesos is a good base for diving. The prime location is the Zenobia shipwreck, rated as one of the world's top-ten diving wrecks. Situated off the coast of Larnaka, this sunken cargo ship is almost completely the same as it was when it sank in 1980. You have to be a qualified diver to go to the depths of 17m to 43m.
The ship is around 200m long and still has its cargo on board. The fish have made the wreck their home, and you'll see lovely creatures such as giant tuna, barracuda, amberjack and eel swimming…
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Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite's Rock & Beach)
Possibly the most famous and mythical beach in Cyprus, Aphrodite's Beach is most certainly one of the island's most beautiful. Driving along the old B6 road from Lemesos to Pafos (a highly recommended journey), you'll stop in awe as you see the vast indigo expanse of the Mediterranean beneath the intense blue of the cloudless summer sky, the white rock and the beach that curls around it. The view from the road is stunning. The two upright rocks look as if they might just walk out of the water.
Mysteriously, swimmers sit on top of them, making the less-acrobatic wonder how they've managed to climb all the way up. The sea here is cool and fresh, and the beach is wonderful…
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Green Line Walk
Despite the fact that crossing into the North is now easy and some of the 'mystery of the other side' has therefore vanished, the Green Line and the spooky buffer zone with its abandoned, crumbling houses still fascinate foreigners. The Green Line is unmissable and it exudes a sense of division. While there's not a lot to see once you are there (save for some creative graffiti work), its mere presence gives Lefkosia its bizarre edge.
You'll see the double minarets of the Agia Sofia mosque, North Nicosia's most remarkable landmark, with the Turkish and Turkish Cypriot flags that hang between them like washing. The Green Line embodies the eeriness of the capital's and the…
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Museum of Barbarism
While the Turkish Cypriots may have taken down the gruesome posters and photographs that used to greet arrivals at the Ledra Palace Hotel crossing, they have not forgotten the atrocities committed by Greek Cypriots and in particular EOKA thugs against the Turkish Cypriot community. The Museum of Barbarism is in a quiet suburb to the west of the Old City and takes a bit of seeking out.
On 24 December 1963, a mother and her children, along with a neighbour, were shot dead in their bath by EOKA gunmen. The bloodstained bath is retained as one of the exhibits in this rather macabre museum. There are other photo-documentary displays, particularly of Turkish Cypriots murdered…
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Hondros
A fat Cypriot bloke in an undershirt gives you 'come hither' glances from the big board above Hondros. Below is a lovely terrace shaded by vines. Tables are covered in simple pink checked cloths, the service is good and the food traditional and delicious. The menu offers all the usual Cypriot dishes, with meaty stifado (rabbit or beef stew) and kleftiko, and a variation on the tasty Turkish dish Imam Bayildi, here known as Imam (aubergines and courgettes in a tomato and garlic sauce).
The children's menu ('Kids corner') looks as if it was lifted out of a McDonald's, with a choice of chicken nuggets, fishfingers and hamburgers.
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Syrian Arab Friendship Club
Apart from being one of the best places to eat in Lefkosia, this is the ideal place for vegetarians. The meze is massive, so approach it with respect, and if you come for lunch, you won't be eating dinner. The large garden is laden with cooling fans and greenery, and children are welcome to play.
The service is superfriendly, and the wonderful food is an experience of its own: green beans, chick peas, tabouleh (bulgur-wheat and parsley salad) and plenty of meat too. Try the delicious mahalabia (a light, rice custard, served cold) dessert and, once you're so stuffed you can't move, puff on a nargileh.
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Governor's Beach
Lemesos' tourist appeal starts 30km east of the city, at Governor's Beach. With a private bus serving the area from Lemesos, many decide to spend their day chilling out (or, more appropriately, baking) on the several coves of dark sand, contrasted by the white chalk cliffs behind them. There are a couple of restaurants here and at least one place to stay, though the overall ambience is slightly marred by the sight of the large Vasilikos power station looming 3km to the west.
Beach techno parties are frequent during the summer here, so keep an eye out for leaflets advertising such events across the island.
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Sabor
Right next to Selimiye Mosque, this is decidedly North Nicosia's trendiest restaurant. Stylish wooden tables inside are surrounded by leather sofas in the lounge area; colourful lamps swing low; fashion photos adorn the walls. The large terrace is on the square, and on Wednesdays and Fridays there is live jazz piano music.
Its excellent Italian and Spanish food is especially good for those days when you can't take another kebab, although there are oriental-style noodles too, and the prices are surprisingly low. The espresso and cappuccino are just right.
reviewed
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Antonaros Tavern
For a no-frills, genuinely Cypriot, local-style evening meal. Only mezedes are served here. Choose from a wide range of dishes such as snails and mussels as well as fish. The handwritten notes on the wall are Greek philosophical sayings.
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K-Cineplex
The best cinema experience to hit Lefkosia, 2.5km out of the city in Strovolos. Sporting multiple screens, K-Cineplex runs all the latest-release movies and provides movie-goers with ample parking, a cafeteria and hi-tech sight-and-sound systems.
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Academic & General
The best place to go for English-language books, stationery and maps.
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Pasta Villa
A self-service pasta restaurant that also does some OK pizza.
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Pafos Mosaics
This mesmerising collection of intricate and colourful mosaics in the southern sector of the Pafos archaeological site, immediately to the south of the Agora, is a pleasure to discover.
Found by accident during levelling operations in 1962, these exquisite mosaics decorated the extensive floor area of a large, wealthy residence from the Roman period. Subsequently named the House of Dionysus (because of the large number of mosaics featuring Dionysus, the god of wine), this complex is the largest and best known of the mosaic houses.
The most wonderful thing about the mosaics is that, apart from their artistic and aesthetic merits, each tells a story. In particular, many are…
reviewed
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Venetian Walls
The Venetian Walls are like Lefkosia's logo. They form a border around the Old City that is so unique that when you see it once, on a map or from a high viewpoint, you'll never forget it. And that's partly to do with its odd shape: is it like a snowflake? A star? A hand grenade? Or a horizontally sliced artichoke?
Despite its impressive appearance, this circular defence wall that surrounds both the northern and southern halves of Old Lefkosia unfortunately failed in the purpose for which it was built. The Venetian rulers erected the walls between 1567 and 1570 with the express aim of keeping the feared Ottoman invaders out of Lefkosia. The appointed engineer Ascanio…
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Ancient Soloi
Ancient Soloi is one of the ancient city kingdoms of Cyprus. Soloi traces its origin back to an Assyrian tribute list (700 BC) where the original city was referred to as Si-il-lu. In 580 BC, King Philokyprios moved his capital from Aepia to Si-il-lu on the advice of his mentor, the Athenian philosopher Solon. Philokyprios promptly renamed the citadel Soloi in honour of Solon.
In 498 BC, Soloi, along with most of the other city kingdoms of Cyprus (Amathous being the exception), rose up against the Persians but was ultimately defeated. It languished until Roman times, when it flourished once again, thanks to the rich copper mines nearby. As happened in other parts of…
reviewed
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Ancient Kourion
Defiantly perched on the hillside overlooking the sea, Ancient Kourion is a spectacular site whether you're an archaeology lover or not. It attracts lots of visitors every day, so if you want to view it with a modicum of peace and quiet, come early in the morning or late in the afternoon, although buses with groups often arrive in the afternoons, when the really hot part of the day is done. If you wish to photograph the place, mornings and afternoons are better anyway.
Ancient Kourion is close to two other attractions in the immediate vicinity, the Sanctuary of Apollon Ylatis and Kolossi Castle. All three can be visited in the same day; as a cooling break, incorporate a…
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Pafos Archaeological Site
Nea Pafos (New Pafos) is the name given to the sprawling Pafos Archaeological Site, which occupies the western segment of Kato Pafos. Nea Pafos is the ancient city of Pafos, which was founded in the late 4th century BC. Palea Pafos (Old Pafos) was in fact Kouklia, southeast of today's Pafos, and the site of the Sanctuary of Aphrodite.
At the time of Nea Pafos, Cyprus was part of the kingdom of the Ptolemies, the Graeco-Macedonian rulers of Egypt whose capital was Alexandria. The city became an important strategic outpost for the Ptolemies, and the settlement grew considerably over the next seven centuries.
The city was originally encircled by massive walls and occupied an…
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Agios Ionnis Lambadistis Monastery
The Unesco-listed Agios Ionnis Lambadistis Monastery is signposted from the long main street of Kalopanayiotis and is reached by following a road downwards and then upwards again at the opposite side of the valley. Built in the traditional Troödos style with a large barnlike roof, it is actually three churches in one, built side-on to one another over 400 years from the 11th century. The original Orthodox church has a double nave, to which has been added a narthex and a Latin chapel.
This composite church is one of the better preserved of the Troödos churches and has the most intricate and colourful frescoes. The best are the 13th-century works in the main domed Orthodox…
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Ancient Amathous
This archaeological site, 11km east of Lemesos, belies its original importance. Ancient Amathous was one of Cyprus' original four kingdoms (the others were Salamis, Pafos and Soloi). Legend has it that the city was founded by Kinyras, the son of Pafos. It is also said that Kinyras introduced the cult of Aphrodite to Cyprus.
Founded in about 1000 BC, the city had an unbroken history of settlement until about the 14th century AD, despite depredation at the hands of Corsairs during the 7th and 8th centuries. In 1191, when Richard the Lionheart appeared on the scene, the city was already on the decline. Since its harbour was silted up, King Richard was obliged to disembark on…
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Selimiye Mosque
North Nicosia's most prominent landmark - also clearly visible from the southern half of the city - is the Selimiye Mosque. This strange-looking building, a cross between a French Gothic church and a mosque, has an interesting history. Work started on the church in 1209 and progressed slowly. Louis IX of France, on his way to the Crusades, stopped by in 1248 and gave the building process a much needed shot in the arm by offering the services of his retinue of artisans and builders.
However, the church took another 78 years to complete and was finally consecrated in 1326 as the Church of Agia Sofia. Up until 1570 the church suffered depredation at the hands of the Genoese…
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Morfou (Güzelyurt)
The quiet and generally uneventful town of Morfou (Güzelyurt) )(known as Güzelyurt by Turkish Cypriots) was once the centre for Cyprus' lucrative citrus industry. Sunzest, the company owned by renegade and runaway Cypriot businessman, Asil Nadir, used to produce vast quantities of orange juice for the export market. The factory now languishes in receivership, and the potentially lucrative citrus industry has taken a severe downturn.
This is bittersweet news to the Greek Cypriots, who were particularly aggrieved when the citrus groves were lost to Turkish forces in 1974. Most were proudly owned by Greek Cypriots who, when meeting someone who has been to the North,…
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Pierides Archaeological Foundation Museum
Dimitrios Pierides started his conservation efforts in 1839, as an attempt to salvage artefacts from notorious tomb raiders. Most famous among them was Luigi Palma di Cesnola, Larnaka's first US consul, who spirited away a large number of artefacts, which are now in New York's Metropolitan Museum. The collection was then expanded by Pierides' descendants, resulting in the well-coordinated Pierides Archaeological Foundation Museum, which is housed in Pierides' old residence, an elegant mansion.
The Pierides Archaeological Foundation Museum competes vigorously with the state-operated Archaeological Museum and features artefacts and finds from all over Cyprus, which have…
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Tombs of the Kings
The Tombs of the Kings, a Unesco World Heritage site, is Pafos' main attraction. Two kilometres north of Kato Pafos, the site contains a set of well-preserved underground tombs and chambers used by residents of Nea Pafos from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD, during the Hellenistic and Roman periods.
Despite the name, the tombs were not actually used by royalty. Instead, they earned the title 'Tombs of the Kings' for their grand appearance and the Doric pillars that help support the structures. Members of the higher social classes were buried here.
The seven excavated tombs are scattered over a wide area and all are accessible to the public. The most impressive is…
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