Introducing Tröodos Massif

For a small country, the variety of landscape in Cyprus is sometimes quite astounding. And the Troödos Massif, holding up the country’s highest peak, Mt Olympus, like a proud beacon, offers the perfect antidote to the hot, lazy life of the beach. When temperatures in the high thirties blister the backs of the tourists and parch the island’s soil, the atmosphere in the Troödos relieves and refreshes even the most heat-muddled mind. Cool shade and the smell of the tall pines beckon many Cypriots, who spend their summer holidays in the lap of the mountain. And, come winter, they take up their skis and submit themselves to gravity and snow (sometimes with entertaining effects).

But it hasn’t always been an area for frolicking in the shade or snow. Over the years, the mountains have provided refuge to religious communities and various underground fighters on the run, as well as the wealthy of the Levant and the colonial civil servants who also tried to get away from the heat. And in their wake, they left magnificent frescoed village churches, unexpected mansions and some quite bizarre museums. But what has also remained, thanks to Troödos’ mountain remoteness, is the essence of Cypriot life, most often undisturbed (or, at least, not as disturbed) by the rampaging tourist industry.

Visiting the Troödos during the summer is great for hiking and cycling, simple relaxing, and visiting the frescoed churches and monasteries that date from at least the 15th century. The churches’ magnificent frescoes are unique in Cyprus.

Driving is a good way to see all of the little villages, and the roads, although windy, are good. Apart from services to and from the villages of Kakopetria, Troödos, Platres and Pedoulas, public transport to the Troödos is sketchy at best and cannot be relied upon for properly exploring the area.