Things to do in Pafos
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Seven St Georges' Tavern
If only everyone was as loving and meticulous about food production and preparation as George, the tavern's owner. Everything you eat and drink in this place is grown, dried or pickled organically by the owner. He has a herb garden at the back, and a meat-smoking cabin from where drool-provoking smells tickle the nostrils. Even the wine is produced here, from organic home-grown grapes.
Your meze, the house speciality, comes in the usual trickle of olives and capers, beetroot and carrot salads, cold meats, casseroles and smoked ham. Everything is season-dependent so you might get hand-picked wild asparagus, herbed wild mushrooms, aubergines in tomato, or fantastically tend…
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Hondros
A fat Cypriot bloke in an undershirt gives you 'come hither' glances from the big board above Hondros. Below is a lovely terrace shaded by vines. Tables are covered in simple pink checked cloths, the service is good and the food traditional and delicious. The menu offers all the usual Cypriot dishes, with meaty stifado (rabbit or beef stew) and kleftiko, and a variation on the tasty Turkish dish Imam Bayildi, here known as Imam (aubergines and courgettes in a tomato and garlic sauce).
The children's menu ('Kids corner') looks as if it was lifted out of a McDonald's, with a choice of chicken nuggets, fishfingers and hamburgers.
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Pafos Mosaics
This mesmerising collection of intricate and colourful mosaics in the southern sector of the Pafos archaeological site, immediately to the south of the Agora, is a pleasure to discover.
Found by accident during levelling operations in 1962, these exquisite mosaics decorated the extensive floor area of a large, wealthy residence from the Roman period. Subsequently named the House of Dionysus (because of the large number of mosaics featuring Dionysus, the god of wine), this complex is the largest and best known of the mosaic houses.
The most wonderful thing about the mosaics is that, apart from their artistic and aesthetic merits, each tells a story. In particular, many are …
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Pafos Archaeological Site
Nea Pafos (New Pafos) is the name given to the sprawling Pafos Archaeological Site, which occupies the western segment of Kato Pafos. Nea Pafos is the ancient city of Pafos, which was founded in the late 4th century BC. Palea Pafos (Old Pafos) was in fact Kouklia, southeast of today's Pafos, and the site of the Sanctuary of Aphrodite.
At the time of Nea Pafos, Cyprus was part of the kingdom of the Ptolemies, the Graeco-Macedonian rulers of Egypt whose capital was Alexandria. The city became an important strategic outpost for the Ptolemies, and the settlement grew considerably over the next seven centuries.
The city was originally encircled by massive walls and occupied an …
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Tombs of the Kings
The Tombs of the Kings, a Unesco World Heritage site, is Pafos' main attraction. Two kilometres north of Kato Pafos, the site contains a set of well-preserved underground tombs and chambers used by residents of Nea Pafos from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD, during the Hellenistic and Roman periods.
Despite the name, the tombs were not actually used by royalty. Instead, they earned the title 'Tombs of the Kings' for their grand appearance and the Doric pillars that help support the structures. Members of the higher social classes were buried here.
The seven excavated tombs are scattered over a wide area and all are accessible to the public. The most impressive is …
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Hrysopolitissa Basilica
This fairly extensive site, which is still being excavated, was home to one of Pafos' largest religious structures. What's left are the foundations of a Christian basilica (built in the 4th century), which aptly demonstrate the size and magnificence of the original church; it was ultimately destroyed during Arab raids in 653. Green-marble columns from this church lie scattered around the site and mosaics from the church floor are still visible.
Further incarnations of the basilica were built over the years, leading to the present small Agia Kyriaki church. The overall area is loosely roped off, so you can't get a total picture of the remains.
What is visible on the western…
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Agios Georgios Museum
Of possible interest to buffs of recent Cypriot history is this rather bizarre and nationalistic Agios Georgios Museum located on the spot where the caïque Agios Georgios (now the museum's prime exhibit), captained by EOKA rebel Georgios Grivas, landed in November 1954 with a large supply of arms and munitions to start the uprising against British colonial rule.
Grivas and his band of rebels were finally arrested while attempting another landing two months later. The museum walls document the rebels' capture and subsequent trial, and make for some fascinating reading.
The site, known as 'Grivas Landing', is 4km north of Kato Pafos and is easily identified by the large Agi…
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Archaeological Museum
This small Archaeological Museum houses a varied and extensive collection of artefacts from eras ranging from the Neolithic period to the 18th century. Displayed in four rooms, the collection includes jars, pottery and glassware, tools, coins and coin moulds. Hellenistic and Roman artefacts include a limestone grave stele, marble statuettes, votive objects, pottery from the House of Dionysus and terracotta figures of dogs and stags.
All in all, it's a collection for the admirer of archaeological minutiae, although it lacks any outstanding items. It is worthy of a browse before visiting Ktima's other two museums.
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Saranta Kolones Fortress
In the Pafos archaeological site are the remains of the medieval Saranta Kolones Fortress, named for the 'forty columns' that were once a feature of the now almost levelled structure. Little is known about the precise nature or history of the original fortress, other than it was built by the Lusignans in the 12th century and was subsequently destroyed by an earthquake in 1222.
The structure had four huge corner towers and another four intermediary towers along the joining walls. A few desultory arches are the only visual evidence of its original grandeur.
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Fort of Pafos
This small, empty fort guards the harbour entrance and is entered by a little stone bridge over a moat. Most visitors climb the fort for the good views of the harbour from its roof. The fort also serves as an event venue during the Pafos Aphrodite Festival.
The fort is in fact all that remains of an earlier Lusignan fort built in 1391; the rest of it was destroyed by the Venetians less than a hundred years later. The Ottomans fixed only the roof, on which they built eight cannon slots aiming in all directions.
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Agia Paraskevi
One of the loveliest churches in the Pafos area is the six-domed Byzantine church of Agia Paraskevi, in Geroskipou, east of Pafos. Most of the surviving frescoes date back to the 15th century, but many, restored in the 1970s, are covered at present and cannot be seen. The first frescoes visible when entering are the Last Supper, the Washing of Feet and the Betrayal. A primitive but interesting depiction of the Virgin Orans (the Virgin Mary with her arms raised) can be seen in the central cupola.
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Zaffron
Zaffron has caused a stir among Cypriot gastronomes, and the place is always full of people who want to be spotted in this most fashionable of restaurants. But being seen is not what it's all about: the food is truly delicious. The menu is Mediterranean, so try the rack of lamb with pesto or the homemade pâtés, and end your meal with a chocolate dessert you will remember for months. There is also a good cocktail lounge bar. Basically, in Pafos, this is where it's at.
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Fetta's Corner
A little old lady cooks and dishes things out through a low window on the side of the house; the grill's smoke is so thick it makes you think she might come running out with her apron on fire. Through the clouds of smoke, efficient waiters dodge the cars, crossing the little street between the lady's window and the tables sprawled on the pavement and in the little park. The food is simple, meze and grills, but it's cheap and tasty, and the service is great.
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Municipal Beach
The most popular town beach is the municipal beach. Although it is next to Posidonos in central Kato Pafos, tourists love it and the swimming is good.
The blue waters around Pafos are clean and alluring, and the beaches have earned EU Blue Flags for cleanliness, so you can swim freely. Keep in mind, however, that the open sea often develops a swell, making swimming a bit of a hit-and-miss affair unless you like choppy seas.
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Byzantine Museum
This noteworthy museum is south of the main square in Ktima. It is worth visiting for its collection of icons from the 13th and 14th centuries, ecclesiastical vestments, vessels, documents and copies of scriptures. The collection contains a 9th-century icon of Agia Marina, thought to be the oldest icon on the island, and an unusual double-sided icon from Filousa dating from the 13th century.
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Ethnographical Museum
The privately owned and maintained Ethnographical Museum houses a varied collection of coins, traditional costumes, kitchen utensils, Chalcolithic axe heads, amphorae and other assorted items. There is more of the same in the garden, including a Hellenistic rock-cut tomb. The guidebook available at the entrance will help you sort out the seemingly jumbled collection.
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Mandra Taverna
This place sells itself as the 'genuine article' among the vast number of cheap, bad eateries and restaurants by virtue of having been there since 1979 and its name having originated from the word for barn. But it really does look like yet another mass-tourism place. The dozens of tables and chairs scream quantity over quality, but many guests swear by the fish meze.
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Pafos Bird Park
Might be Cyprus' best zoo and best children's attraction rolled into one. Apart from birds, there are giraffes, antelopes, deer, gazelles, moufflon, reptiles, giant tortoises, emus, ostriches, small goats and so on. There is also a restaurant and snack bar, and a kiddies' playground. It's located on the road to Coral Bay.
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Club S-cape
Two enormous bars (less queuing) and a seated chill-out area mean that once you're danced out, there's plenty of space to rest. Be present for the weekly carwash disco parties (prepare to be sudsed and rinsed!) and enjoy classic tracks from the '70s and '80s, and house music and R & B on the new sound system.
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Agios Lambrianos Rock-Cut Tomb
On the side of Fabrica Hill, are a couple of enormous underground caverns most likely dating from the early Hellenistic period. These are also burial chambers associated with the saints Lambrianos and Misitikos. The interiors of the tombs bear frescoes that indicate they were used as a Christian place of worship.
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Cydive
The waters off Pafos are ideal for diving, and with around 30 sites to explore, some with evocative names such as 'Bubbles', the 'Wreck of the Achilleas', 'Stan's Dilemma' or the 'Valley of Caves', there are enough dives to fill a month or more. Cydive can help you take full advantage of the opportunity.
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Baywatch
If bright-green cushioned chairs, pool playing, and large-breasted waitresses are your thing, then this is the place for you. All the tables are facing the street for yet more visual stimulation, and the cocktails just keep on coming. There's also an internet cafe here.
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Argo
Decent kleftiko is made freshly and twice a week (Tuesday and Saturday), when it's advisable to book. The moussaka is recommended. The restaurant has a small terrace and is in the (relatively) quiet part of tourist-tastic Kato Pafos.
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Koh-i-Noor
From the dozens of Indian restaurants in Pafos, this is the one that everyone recommends. The North Indian cuisine has aromatic tandoori dishes, and the lamb korma is great. There is also a good wine list, so you could be here for hours.
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La Place Royale
One of the classiest café-cum-bars, right on the people-watching strip at the eastern end of Posidonos. This little oasis of glass, cane and wrought iron in a shaded paved patio is perfect for a prepub or preclub cocktail.
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