Meze restaurants in Lefkosia (South Nicosia)
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Zanettos Taverna
This place has a great reputation in the city, as it is allegedly one of the oldest traditional taverns. The locals flock here in their dozens, and it's definitely worth joining them. A great place for meze, it's hidden away in a slightly shady part of town, where the painted ladies sit in their doorways, waiting for business.
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Tziellari
You won't have to look hard to find this place. All you have to do is open your ears as you get to the murky night-time Plateia Achiepiskopou Kyprianou, then follow the sound of the bouzouki down a dark alley and push the heavy doors into Tziellari. There is such a distinct atmosphere in this restaurant that you might feel as if you'd walked onto a film set from the 1930s: dark wooden walls, demure lighting, and often entire families dining and Greek dancing, arms outstretched.
The meze is as typical as you get, starring the Cypriot favourites such as olives, grilled haloumi, souvlaki and seftalia (grilled Cypriot sausage). There is house wine, zivania (local firewater)…
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A
Odos Othellou
This small Greek blue-and-white house is like an apparition on the dimly lit street. The little wooden tables outside are the perfect spot for a quiet dinner or drink, away from the traffic and the people. Like most traditional outfits, this place serves meze, but the emphasis is on the mainland Greek version, which is all about grilled meat. For a set price, you can eat, have one free drink and listen to bouzouki (inside the restaurant only).
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B
1900 Paei Kairos
The only place in the tourist part worth going to. It's a pretty little Greek-style mezedopolio (a small restaurant specialising in mezedes). It serves mix-and-match mezedes such as stryftari (a pie made up of five cheeses), eggplant stuffed with cheese in filo pastry, and eggplant patties. Have a tipple of tsipouro (a clear, distilled spirit) or try a selection of the mainly Greek wines on offer.
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Plaka Tavern
If you have plenty of time in the city and fancy a change, head west of the centre and dine at this superb little taverna. It's best visited during the summer months when dinner is served on the square. The mezedes are best here but be warned: there are many of them and you'll need a big appetite.
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Loukoullos
The management of Cleopatra Hotel may be stuffy, but it doesn't stop its in-house restaurant from being considered one of Lefkosia's better hotel restaurants. In summer, dine on mezedes or European cuisine next to the pool.
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C
Egeon
The ever-so-discreet yet very popular Egeon draws a faithful following of mainly local devotees. You dine in an atmospheric old house on a rich platter of imaginative mezedes. Bookings are essential.
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D
To Steki tis Loxandras
Live traditional music, good quality Greek-style mezedes and lots of people is the standard at Loxandras. Booking is an absolute must on weekends.
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E
Taverna Axiothea
A little, unassuming joint on the last street before the barricades. It is good for low-priced and tasty mezedes.
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