Tziellari

Lonely Planet review

You won't have to look hard to find this place. All you have to do is open your ears as you get to the murky night-time Plateia Achiepiskopou Kyprianou, then follow the sound of the bouzouki down a dark alley and push the heavy doors into Tziellari. There is such a distinct atmosphere in this restaurant that you might feel as if you'd walked onto a film set from the 1930s: dark wooden walls, demure lighting, and often entire families dining and Greek dancing, arms outstretched.

The meze is as typical as you get, starring the Cypriot favourites such as olives, grilled haloumi, souvlaki and seftalia (grilled Cypriot sausage). There is house wine, zivania (local firewater) and Cyprus brandy, all of which will come in handy if you try to master some of that dancing.