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1900 Paei Kairos
The only place in the tourist part worth going to. It's a pretty little Greek-style mezedopolio (a small restaurant specialising in mezedes ). It serves mix-and-match mezedes such as stryftari (a pie made up of five cheeses), eggplant stuffed with cheese in filo pastry, and eggplant patties. Have a tipple of tsipouro (a clear, distilled spirit) or try a selection of the mainly Greek wines on offer.
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Abu Faysal
Lebanese cuisine is a gourmet's heaven, and if you want to sample or simply indulge in some fantastic Lebanese dishes, this is Lefkosia's best place. Three blocks south of the Constanza Bastion, the restaurant is an old house in a quiet backstreet with a leafy courtyard. The mezedes are recommended, as is a bottle of Lebanese Ksara Riesling.
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Agios Georgios Taverna
Worth checking out - it's unadorned, simple and basic but offers good home-cooked dishes. Located on the northern side of the market.
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Arheon Gefsis
'The root of all pleasures is the satisfaction of the stomach' said Epicurus (341-270 BC). The owners of this place have taken this to heart and offer up foods that the ancient Greek philosopher himself may have feasted upon. Dine on dishes featuring figs, nuts, honey, beets, chickpeas and olives.
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Bonsai
The best Japanese place in town. Sitting deep inside the Holiday Inn, Bonsai serves tasty sushi that goes around the counter, as you sit on high stools and get hypnotised by the moving choice. Nigiri sushi consisting of raw tuna, hamour, sword fish, omelette, salmon, mackerel, octopus, shrimp, squid and California rolls is a delicacy. An all-you-can eat sushi buffet is on offer every Monday and Thursday lunchtime, and Tuesday dinner time.
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Café La Mode
Believe it or not, Marks & Sparks hosts one of the city's most stylish cafés. Alongside delicious coffee, this place also serves rather swish food.
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China Spice
Chinese cuisine like they eat it in the posh parts of Shanghai or Hong Kong perhaps. The décor is minimalist, with black wood, white walls, and beige cushions, and a plant adorns the centre of each table. The delicious, elegantly presented dishes are prepared by nine Chinese chefs.
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Da Capo
The mother of all trendy Leoforos Arhiepiskopou Makariou III cafés. This is the place that started the sipping-coffee-outdoors trend. It also has wi-fi internet points.
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Da Paolo
A small Italian place with pizza that smells so divine you will throw caution to the wind and forget all about your low-carb diet. The interior (only used in winter) is a red-brick room, with high ceilings and tall, wooden-shuttered windows. Everything smells of the herbs and garlic that dangle above the ovens. Waiters risk their lives carrying your food across the street to the summer garden, which sits right on top of the Venetian walls.
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Date Club Restaurant
Flashy and a little hard to find, this place is really popular with the well-heeled of Lefkosia, including prime ministers and presidents who come for the casserole lunches. The vanilla-white interior is a little glitzy, so dress up before you come to eat here.
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Double Six Coffee Bar
This great café is decked out in smooth ebony furniture, hauled all the way from Bali by Vassos, the owner. The atmosphere is relaxed, there are cushions to recline on and delicious fresh juices to boost your system. Try the sweet Cypriot prickly pear, hydrating watermelon, or delicious kiwi juice. Breakfast on haloumi, tomato and lountza (pork-loin sausage) sandwiches, and a delicious cappuccino.
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Dragon
If you fancy a Chinese takeaway, try this place. There is a good range of dishes, all cooked by a Chinese chef.
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Egeon
The ever-so-discreet yet very popular Egeon draws a faithful following of mainly local devotees. You dine in an atmospheric old house on a rich platter of imaginative mezedes . Bookings are essential.
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Erodos
This is certainly the loveliest front yard in the Old City, on Plateia Tyllirias, abutting the Omeriye Hammam. The food is reasonable, although by no means exquisite.
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Estiatorio Savvas
Worth checking out - it's unadorned, simple and basic but offers good home-cooked dishes.
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Finbarr's
This Irish pub is an up-market version of its more 'earthy' clones around the world. The menu is all Irish cuisine: either traditional, or 'fusion', such as beef-and-stout pie, or a jazzed up basil-and-chicken boxty (traditional stuffed potato pancake).
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Kalymnos
A fish tavern that also attracts the Cypriot high-flyers, as well as el Presidente; it's a modest little place and the fish is to die for. There's a small bar for a predinner drink.
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Kana Kai
An intimate place close to the Old City, which does a mean Peking duck. You can also order takeaway.
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Le Café
This is the place to be seen for everyone who's anyone in Lefkosia's fashionable elite. Witness the Prada and Gucci brigade nibble on salads, or businessmen deep in conversation on their mobiles while eating pasta dishes, as you sip your frappé. No alcohol is served.
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Loukoullos
The management of Cleopatra Hotel may be stuffy, but it doesn't stop its in-house restaurant from being considered one of Lefkosia's better hotel restaurants. In summer, dine on mezedes or European cuisine next to the pool.
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Mondo
A spacious café and bar with an upstairs terrace, catering for all types and not only the usual blonde-highlights and plenty of lip-gloss girls, or muscle and designer-wear boys.
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Odos Othellou
This small Greek blue-and-white house is like an apparition on the dimly lit street. The little wooden tables outside are the perfect spot for a quiet dinner or drink, away from the traffic and the people. Like most traditional outfits, this place serves meze, but the emphasis is on the mainland Greek version, which is all about grilled meat. For a set price, you can eat, have one free drink and listen to bouzouki (inside the restaurant only).
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Orfeas
A sprawling taverna with tables in the park, always packed full of Cypriots coming to eat their national favourite: souvlaki. An old solitary mama observes the evening activity from inside, reading a newspaper, unperturbed by her successful business.
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Pago Pago
Get your grass skirt on and grab a pineapple and umbrella-adorned cocktail as you wait for a table. Pago Pago is located in Castelli Hotel. Tahitian duck is recommended, as is lots of dancing to live Cuban music.






