Green Line Walk

Despite the fact that crossing into the North is now easy and some of the 'mystery of the other side' has therefore vanished, the Green Line and the spooky buffer zone with its abandoned, crumbling houses still fascinate foreigners. The Green Line is unmissable and it exudes a sense of division. While there's not a lot to see once you are there (save for some creative graffiti work), its mere presence gives Lefkosia its bizarre edge.

You'll see the double minarets of the Agia Sofia mosque, North Nicosia's most remarkable landmark, with the Turkish and Turkish Cypriot flags that hang between them like washing. The Green Line embodies the eeriness of the capital's and the country's division, especially when coupled with so many 1974 stories that you hear from every Cypriot.

UN and Greek Cypriot bunkers punctuate the line across the city, and you are not supposed to approach them too closely or get your camera out. The CTO-signposted walking tour takes you hard up to the line at the far eastern side of the city close to the military-controlled Flatro (Sibeli) Bastion. Take the last turn left off Leoforos Athinas along Agiou Georgiou and look for the little street on the right with Taverna Axiothea. Walk to the end of Axiotheas and squeeze through the gap into the next street, following the walking-tour sign. There is an area of particular desolation and destruction towards the end of Pendadaktylou where it meets Ermou, the street that originally bisected the Old City more or less equally into two.

It is thought that many of the streets and ruined buildings are booby-trapped with mines.