Things to do in The Northwest
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Ancient Soloi
Ancient Soloi is one of the ancient city kingdoms of Cyprus. Soloi traces its origin back to an Assyrian tribute list (700 BC) where the original city was referred to as Si-il-lu. In 580 BC, King Philokyprios moved his capital from Aepia to Si-il-lu on the advice of his mentor, the Athenian philosopher Solon. Philokyprios promptly renamed the citadel Soloi in honour of Solon.
In 498 BC, Soloi, along with most of the other city kingdoms of Cyprus (Amathous being the exception), rose up against the Persians but was ultimately defeated. It languished until Roman times, when it flourished once again, thanks to the rich copper mines nearby. As happened in other parts of Cyprus…
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Morfou (Güzelyurt)
The quiet and generally uneventful town of Morfou (Güzelyurt) )(known as Güzelyurt by Turkish Cypriots) was once the centre for Cyprus' lucrative citrus industry. Sunzest, the company owned by renegade and runaway Cypriot businessman, Asil Nadir, used to produce vast quantities of orange juice for the export market. The factory now languishes in receivership, and the potentially lucrative citrus industry has taken a severe downturn.
This is bittersweet news to the Greek Cypriots, who were particularly aggrieved when the citrus groves were lost to Turkish forces in 1974. Most were proudly owned by Greek Cypriots who, when meeting someone who has been to the North, invari…
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Gemikonaği (Karavostasi)
Gemikonaği (Karavostasi) Citrus groves stretch westwards from Morfou, towards Morfou Bay. The thin strips of beach are not so great: there's no shade, the pebbles are uncomfortable, and it's all a bit narrow. But there aren't many people about and the sea is pretty calm. The villagers from the Troödos foothills in the South used to make the short trip to Morfou Bay to swim before 1974, but due to the border, they now have to trek over 100km away to Larnaka.
The once-flourishing port of Gemikonağı dominates the bay, and you will spot the long-abandoned and slowly disintegrating jetty before you actually catch sight of the port itself. The town was once home to a large Am…
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Ancient Vouni
Viewed in the early morning or late afternoon, this rather surreal and 'what's-it-doing-here?' site is a bit of a mystery. The hilltop location of Ancient Vouni is simply superb, and is reached along a narrow road off the main highway. Look for the black-and-yellow Vouni Sarayı sign pointing north and up the hill. Go up to the car park and the ticket office at the very top.The site, which originally housed a palace or large complex of buildings, dates back to the 5th century BC.
The palace was built by the leaders of the pro-Persian city of Marion (today's Polis) following the failed revolt by the Ionian Greeks against the Persians. The details of this incident were desc…
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Lefke (Lefka)
The turn-off is not well signposted, but nonetheless it's hard to miss. The village, which is an easy 10-minute drive along a fast, straight road, is bizarrely the home of a hardy bunch of British expats. The village derives its name from the Greek word lefka (meaning 'poplar').
There are seemingly more palm trees than poplars these days, and Lefke's position amid riotous greenery and rolling hills gives the place a pleasant, fresh feel. The years of Lefke's isolation on the country's western corner are almost over, with a new border crossing at Zodhia, which can be reached by the road going to Morfou. The vast hinterland of Tylliria and Pafos Forest, which is in reality …
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Agios Mamas
By the large roundabout in the town centre of Morfou (Güzelyurt), you'll see the Orthodox church of Cyprus' most beloved saint, the tax-collector-repelling Agios Mamas, which was once the site of a pagan temple. The faithful used to visit this place before 1974 to see the ancient marble tomb of the patron saint, said to have oozed a mysterious liquid when pierced by the Ottomans who were looking for treasure.
The liquid, which was supposed to have curing effects on earaches, flowed freely at irregular intervals; this is why ear-shaped offerings surround the tomb. The church, which is normally closed, vies for attention with a splendid-looking new mosque that has been bui…
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Asmalı Beach
You are better advised to ignore the rather scrappy beaches to the west of Zafer Gazinosu Beach and head instead for Asmalı Beach, fronting the border village of Yeşilırmak (Limnitis). This is a clean pebble beach with four restaurants catering to those who make it this far out. Of curious interest is a huge grapevine. Planted in 1947, the enormous vine completely covers the outside dining area of the Asmalı Beach Restaurant at the western end.
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Zafer Gazinosu Beach
A 12km stretch west of Gemikonağı has sandy and pebbly beaches, ending at the border with the Republic. First up is the prominently signposted Zafer Gazinosu Beach. It's mainly a pebble beach with some imported sand for those who prefer it. There is a wooden diving and swimming pier, changing rooms and toilets, as well as an attendant bar and restaurant.
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Green River Bar
At the eastern end of Asmali Beach is Green River Bar, run by Turkish/Cockney-speaking Erdal (Eddie). Apart from dishing up large meals of kebabs, fish or kleftiko, he also offers a small, shaded area with seats and tables for independent picnickers.
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Mardin Restaurant
The nearby Mardin Restaurant has excellent fish and meze, but the Adana kebabs are also pretty yummy. There is an artificial beach next door, and the restaurant terrace overlooks the sea.
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Şah
Morfou has one of the best meze houses in the North, according to some. The Şah, south of the north-end roundabout, has quail and lamb sausages included in the meze.
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