Island sights in Cuba
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A small, populated key near the jaws of the bay, Cayo Granma (formerly known as Cayo Smith) is a little fantasy island of red-roofed wooden houses – many of them on stilts above the water – that guard a traditional fishing community. Come here to enjoy a slower, more hassle-free Santiago. You can hike the short route up to the small whitewashed Iglesia de San Rafael at the key's highest point, or walk around the whole island in 15 minutes, but the best thing about this place is just hanging out, soaking up a bit of the real Cuba.
The only official eating establishment is the seafood-biased Restaurante el Cayo, but local families often offer to cook up excellent fish…