Must-see restaurants in Cuba

  • Paladar Villa Odalis

    Las Tunas Province

    With a plant-festooned patio and quiet downtown location, the offerings at this local spot skew toward seafood specialties. Spaghetti, mutton, pork and…

  • La Fortaleza

    Santiago de Cuba

    In a conducive setting amid Vista Alegre's mansions, this spacious, inviting shady patio serves above-average food (pay in pesos) alongside live music at…

  • Restaurante El Cabo

    Granma Province

    The cheapest seafood in Cuba comes straight out of the Caribbean behind this restaurant that lies in the shadow of the Vargas lighthouse. Expect fresh…

  • Cremería Helados Pompón

    Matanzas

    Another artistic surprise on awakening Calle Narváez (aka Calle 97), Pompón is an ice cream–biased cafe that doubles as an art gallery, workshop and…

  • Fonda de Mercedes

    Las Terrazas

    On a terrace beside her home in an apartment block beneath Hotel Moka, Mercedes has been serving up vegetable soup and hearty home-cooked meat and fish…

  • Restaurante Mi Retiro

    Sancti Spíritus Province

    Situated 3km back down the road to Trinidad, Restaurante Mi Retiro does fair-to-middling comida criolla (Creole food) served against a backdrop of…

  • Restaurante-Bar San José

    Holguín

    A hub of locals slap-bang in the central square (Parque San José) with mismatched paint and uniformed servers. The menu is nothing fancy, but this is…

  • Parador La Silla

    Cayo Coco

    This thatched-roof snack bar is halfway along the causeway into Cayo Coco. After a coffee, beer or sandwich, you could climb the adjacent lookout tower…

  • Panadería Doña Neli

    Santa Clara

    This staunchly Cuban bakery amid the austere shopfronts on Calle Maceo has plenty of tables available in an adjacent cafe where you can relax with a piece…

  • Restaurante Los Helechos

    Cuba

    The best state-run eating option at El Nicho is this open-sided rustic restaurant offering the standard round of rice, beans, meat and root vegetables,…

  • Restaurante Don Carlos

    Holguín Province

    Salt-of-the-earth, meet-the-locals private restaurant where you can discover the other side of Cuba over some pretty decent seafood less than 30 minutes…

  • La Rampa

    Varadero

    A modest private place that's family-run and rightly lauded for its thoroughly decent food. Seating is half inside and half out. The lobster tails are…

  • Grill Caribe

    Playa Ancón

    On a lovely beach, this open-air restaurant serves fresh seafood, with the daily menu displayed on a chalkboard. Strict vegetarians will be disappointed…

  • Miguel's

    Artemisa & Mayabeque Provinces

    Cute paladar (privately-owned restaurant) serving unusual (for Artemisa) dishes including crab, tamales and bistec uruguayo (Uruguayan steak). Favored by…

  • Los Nardis

    Artemisa & Mayabeque Provinces

    Unsignposted, thus hard-to-find, private restaurant a block from the main drag (Av 28 de Enero) that serves unadorned Cuban dishes featuring mucho rice…

  • Cremería Guamá

    Holguín

    Havana's famous ice-cream parlor. Lose an hour underneath the striped red-and-white awning overlooking pedestrianized Calle Manduley and enjoy peso treats…

  • Don Pepe

    Habana del Este

    When the Guanabo pizza gets too much, head to this thatched-roof, beach-style restaurant about 50m from the sands of Playa Santa María. It specializes in…

  • Restaurante Café Cienfuegos

    Cienfuegos

    This is the most ambitious of the eating options at Club Cienfuegos. It's a refined place on the top floor, where you'll pay CUC$12 and up for a steak or…

  • Restaurante Cayo Jutías

    Pinar del Río Province

    The open-sided Restaurante Cayo Jutías right on the beach specializes in local seafood.

  • Mama Inés

    Habana Vieja

    Mama's is run by Fidel Castro's ex-chef Erasmo, whose CV lists a veritable who’s who of celebrity 'lefties' he's cooked for, from Hollywood actors to…

  • Sitio del Compay

    Santiago de Cuba Province

    Siboney's only real dining option serves no-frills comida criolla (Creole food) with friendly service and good beach views. It's in the former house of…

  • Restaurante el Bambú

    Outer Havana

    Once the only example of vegetarian dining in Havana, El Bambú has long been a leading advocate of the benefits of a meatless diet (a tough call in Cuba's…

  • El Barracón

    Santiago de Cuba

    El Barracón tries to reignite the roots of Afro-Cuban culture and cuisine with mixed results. The state-run restaurant's interior, a mix of atmospheric…

  • Casa del Queso La Marriage

    Habana Vieja

    A good idea that started well but has since gone a bit mouldy, this specialist cheese shop serves cheese boards accompanied by glasses of Chilean wine –…

  • Bar-Restaurante Gran Nena

    Sancti Spíritus Province

    An ambient setting where Cuban food that's just OK is served (slowly) under a traditional open-sided sitting area. Bananas, papayas, avocados, oranges and…

  • 1869 Restaurant

    Cienfuegos

    The elegant restaurant in the Hotel La Unión has food that doesn't quite match the lush furnishings. Most days there's a buffet with à la carte options…

  • Cafe Hotel Casa Granda

    Santiago de Cuba

    Positioned like a whitewashed theater box overlooking the unscripted cabaret of Parque Céspedes, the Casa Granda's Parisian-style terrace cafe has to be…

  • Bar-Restaurante Olimpia

    Guantánamo Province

    A celebration of Guantánamo's remarkable Olympic Games performances, this bar-restaurant displays baseball shirts, athletics memorabilia and the boxing…

  • Restaurante Mesón del Quijote

    Varadero

    Next to a statue of Cervantes' famous Don who seems to be making off rather keenly toward the all-inclusive resorts, this restaurant is one of the eastern…

  • Cafetería Cristal

    Holguín

    Typical of such cafes across Latin America: Cristal's reliable and affordable chicken meals are dished up by formal waiters whose elegance prepares you…

  • La Bodega

    Bayamo

    On Bayamo's main square, head to the rear terrace overlooking Río Bayamo, fringed by a bucolic backdrop worthy of an isolated country villa. Set menus…

  • Restaurante Plaza

    Bayamo

    The Hotel Royalton hosts one of the town's best restaurants; nothing legendary mind you, but with an excellent setting including the option to sit outside…

  • La Mina

    Habana Vieja

    With a mediocre menu but a top-class location, state-run La Mina graces a shady corner of Plaza de Armas (so every tourist walks past it at some point)…

  • Paraito

    Trinidad

    Here's a rarity for Trinidad: a no-frills eatery with stand-up tables filled by locals engaged in quick-fire gossip. The fried rice is good, or opt for a…

  • Cubita Restaurant

    Trinidad

    Setting Cubita apart from Trinidad's other higher-end restaurants is the complimentary amuse-bouche commencing the dining experience. This is where its…

  • Restaurante Don Pepe

    Ciego de Ávila Province

    A bartender named Eladio invented the Cóctel Don Pepe here (two shots of orange juice, 1.5 shots of white rum and half a shot of crème de menthe, stirred)…

  • Restaurante La Bodeguita

    Las Tunas

    A Palmares state-run joint, meaning that it's a better bet than the usual peso parlors and is likely to be open when others are not. You'll get checkered…

  • Paladar los Amigos

    Vedado

    Not tempted to go modern and pretentious, Los Amigos sticks to the basics, offering traditional Cuban fare with lashings of rice and beans in a family…

  • Mesón del Regidor

    Trinidad

    A cafe-restaurant with a friendly ambience and a revolving lineup of local musicians, including the best trovadores (traditional singer-songwriters), who…

  • Mesón de la Plaza

    Sancti Spíritus

    Long a solid option, this state-run restaurant occupies a 19th-century mansion that once belonged to a rich Spanish tycoon. You can tuck into classic…