Things to do in Matanzas
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Teatro Sauto
Wilting from the outside, the Teatro Sauto is one of Cuba’s finest theaters (1863) and famous for its superb acoustics. The lobby is graced by marble Greek goddesses and the main hall ceiling bears paintings of the muses. Three balconies enclose this 775-seat theater, which features a floor that can be raised to convert the auditorium into a ballroom. A work of art, the original theater curtain is a painting of the Puente de la Concordia over the Río Yumurí. Enrico Caruso performed here, as did the Soviet dancer Anna Pavlova in 1945. Your best chance of catching a performance is on Friday, Saturday or Sunday nights.
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Cuevas de Bellamar
The Cuevas de Bellamar, 5km southeast of Matanzas, are 300,000 years old and are promoted locally as the oldest tourist attraction in Cuba. The 2500m-long caves were discovered in 1861 by a Chinese workman in the employ of Don Manual Santos Parga. There’s an underground stream inside; two restaurants, a pool and playground outside. One-hour visits into the cave leave every hour seven times a day starting at 9:30am. To get there, take bus 16, 17 or 20 east toward Canímar and ask the driver to let you out near Calle 226. From there it’s a 30-minute walk uphill to the caves.
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Laguna de Maya
The Laguna de Maya is a Flora and Fauna Reserve where professional Ecotur guides can rent you snorkeling gear and guide you out to the reef for a bargain CUC$5. There are a reported 300 species of fish here and visibility is a decent 15m to 20m. The Laguna de Maya also incorporates a snack bar, a ranchón-style restaurant overlooking a small lake with boat rental and opportunities for horseback riding. A package including all the activities is offered for CUC$25. You can hike 2.5km to the Cueva Saturno from here.
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Ruinas de Matasiete
Want to find the town’s best drinking hole? Then ask a local. Even better, ask five. Chances are they’ll all reply Ruinas de Matasiete, an engaging convertible bar housed in the ruins of a 19th-century warehouse, next to the bay. Drinks and grilled meats are served on an open-air terrace, but a better reason to come is to hear live music (from 9pm Friday, Saturday and Sunday). There’s a minimum cover charge of CUC$3.
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Cueva Saturno
Cueva Saturno is promoted as a snorkeling spot and Varadero companies include it on many tours, but don’t believe the hype: it’s really just a ho-hum cave with limited access, unless you’re an experienced cave diver with all the relevant equipment. Beware the odd hustler or three and the screaming crowds clamoring to get into the water. There’s a snack bar here that sells good coffee.
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Castillo de San Severino
The formidable Castillo de San Severino was built by the Spanish in 1735 as part of Cuba’s defensive ring. Slaves were offloaded here in the 18th century and, later, Cuban patriots were imprisoned within the walls – and sometimes executed. San Severino remained a prison until the 1970s and in more recent times became the Museo de la Ruta de los Esclavos, a rather scant slavery museum.
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Castillo del Morrillo
The Castillo del Morrillo (1720) is now a museum dedicated to the student leader Antonio Guiteras Holmes (1906–35), who founded the revolutionary group Joven Cuba (Young Cuba) in 1934. After serving briefly in the post-Machado government, Guiteras was forced out by army chief Fulgencio Batista and shot on May 8, 1935. A bronze bust marks the spot where he was executed.
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Playa Coral
The old coastal road to Varadero is great on a moped, providing better scenery and a mellower pace than the Autopista. There are some OK swimming spots en route and Playa Coral has 2km of offshore reef with the best snorkeling in the area. The airport access road is just beyond Playa Coral at the small crossroads town of Carbonera (a fresh fish lunch can be arranged here; ask around).
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Río Canímar Boat Trips
Boat trips 12km up the jungle-clad Río Canímar depart from Bar Cubamar, below the bridge on the inland side. Varadero tour companies offer this excursion with lunch, horseback riding, fishing and snorkeling, but you can work out a similar deal for approximately around 25 by showing up at the landing before noon. Rowboats are for rent (around 2 per hour) at the bar any time.
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Tropicana Matanzas
Capitalizing on its success in Havana and Santiago de Cuba, the famous Tropicana cabaret has a branch 8km east of Matanzas, next to the Hotel Canimao. You can mingle with the Varadero bus crowds and enjoy the same entertaining formula of lights, feathers, flesh and frivolity in the open air. Rather like a cricket match, rain stops play here if the weather cracks.
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Museo Farmacéutico
The Museo Farmacéutico is the city's showcase sight. Founded in 1882 by the Triolett family, this antique pharmacy was the first of its type in Latin America and continued to function until 1964 when it became a museum. The fine displays include all the odd bottles, instruments, porcelain jars and medical recipes used in the trade.
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Café Atenas
Atenas is used to receiving the odd stray tourist on a moped-trip from Varadero and can rustle up a rather delicious bruschetta at short notice. Settle down in the clean, if bland, interior with the local students, taxi drivers and hotel workers on a day off, and contemplate the everyday occurrences of Plaza Vigía outside.
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Estadio Victoria de Girón
From October to April, baseball games take place at this stadium, near the Río San Juan, 1km southwest of the market. The schedule varies, so ask when the local team, Citricultores, will be playing. Don't expect Cuba's best ball here: this is equivalent to a farm team.
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Puente Calixto García
The steel, 1899 Puente Calixto García - number one bridge in a city that boasts 21 of them - spans the Río San Juan and leads directly into Plaza de la Vigía from the south. Three centuries ago the original settlement of Matanzas was established on this site.
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Restaurante Teni
A large thatched roof affair alongside the beach in Reparto Playa on the road to Varadero, this pleasant place with keen service offers a substantial set comida criolla (Creole food) meal, with rice, root vegetables, salad and meat, for just CUC$5.
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El Ranchón Bellamar
If you’re visiting the caves, you’d do well to grab a comida criolla lunch at this ranchón -style restaurant before heading back into town. Good pork or chicken meals with the trimmings go for between CUC$7 and CUC$8.
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Restaurante Monserrate
Included in the rejuvenation and restoration of the Ermita de Monserrate viewpoint is this ranchón-style restaurant designed to lure tourists to the city’s best overlook. In the culinary desert of Matanzas it goes straight in at number one.
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Casino Español
At the former Casino Español, the first performance of the danzonete (ballroom dance) Rompiendo La Rutina, by Anceto Díaz, took place. It’s now the Biblioteca Gener y Del Monte.
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Cuartel Goicuría
On the corner of Calles 63 and 260 stands the sinister-looking Cuartel Goicuría, a former barracks of Batista's army that was assaulted on April 29, 1956, by a group of rebels led by Reinold T García. Today it's a school.
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El Retablo
Kids and theater lovers shouldn't miss El Retablo, a gallery filled with all the fantastic costumes, marionettes and creations made by Cuba's masterful puppet makers. Performances are held here every second Saturday of the month.
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Archivo Histórico
The city’s Archivo Histórico, is in the former residence of local poet José Jacinto Milanés (1814–63). A bronze statue of Milanés stands on the Plaza de la Iglesia.
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Casa de Bienes Culturales La Vigía
Incurable shopping addicts can mosey on down to this place on Plaza de la Vigía or browse for original handmade books at Ediciones Vigía, which can be found at the other end of the same block.
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Café Libertad
If you’re going Cuban in Matanzas, this cafe on the main square is a fairly painless introduction, though the peso hamburguesas (hamburgers) could do with a little bit of extra garnish.
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Parque Libertad
A few blocks directly west of Plaza de la Vigía is Parque Libertad with several more of Matanzas' most stimulating sights, including a bronze statue (1909) of José Martí in the center.
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Iglesia de Monserrate
For an excellent view of Matanzas and the picturesque Valle del Yumurí, march north up Calle 306 to the ruined Iglesia de Monserrate, dating from 1875 and perched loftily above the town.
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