To see a different side of Havana, hang out with the arty crowd at the Centro Cultural Cinematográfico in Vedado, a hive of talented creativity and youthful energy. The HQ of the Instituto Cubano del Arte e Industria Cinematográficos (Icaic), the center hosts film premieres, discussion nights, art expos, live music and is home to Havana’s best DVD movie outlet. The adjacent Café Fresa y Chocolate is a great place to get acquainted with the Icaic’s movers and shakers, especially on Wednesday nights when there’s an excellent live clarinet quartet. The most enlightening shows are the interactive debate nights known as El Último Jueves de Cada Mes (The Last Thursday of Each Month) for when they’re held. Hosted by a small panel of academics, intellectuals and experts from the arts magazine Temas, respectful but enthusiastic public audiences discuss everything from politics to TV soap operas. It’s a fascinating insight into the parameters of public debate in a supposedly totalitarian society. Admission is free and the debates are in Spanish.