Shopping in Havana
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Variadades Galiano
The main shopping streets for Cubans are San Rafael and Av de Italia (Galiano). At the point where the thoroughfares meet stands Variadades Galiano, the Bloomingdales of Cuban department stores (and a former Woolworths), which sells everything from mesh tank tops to old records. With its strangely evocative interior that mixes aspiring 1950s New York with dingy 1970s Moscow, this place offers an authentic glimpse into how Cubans go shopping.
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Mercado del Oriente
Calle Mercaderes (Merchant St) is chockablock with eclectic shops such as this one. Revamped by the City Historian’s Office a few years back, the Mercado del Oriente has a Far Eastern theme (the Casa de Asia is next door) and sells furniture, textiles, porcelain, glass and silver objects from places such as China.
reviewed
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Publicaciones de la Oficina del Historiador
The definitive word on Habana Vieja’s colonial history can be uncovered here in large, photo-friendly coffee-table books that showcase the development and restoration of Old Habana. The small store sells mainly books, postcards and back copies of the cultural magazine Opus (which prints part of its text in English).
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Studio of Salvador González Escalona
Since 1990 a local painter named Salvador González Escalona has converted Callejón de Hamel into an open-air art center with vivid murals and funky street sculpture. Salvador has a studio at No 1054, where his paintings may be viewed (and purchased), and the studio organizes free cultural activities in the street outside.
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Palacio de la Artesanía
A former 18th-century colonial palace turned into a shopping mall – the Americans could learn from this! Gathered around a shaded central patio is one-stop shopping for souvenirs, cigars, crafts, musical instruments, CDs, clothing and jewelry at fixed prices. Join the gaggles of tour-bus escapees and fill your bag.
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Galería Victor Manuel
Taking pride of place in Plaza de la Catedral, this expensive gallery is about as high-end as Habana shopping gets. Displayed in a beautiful baroque building are wonderful humidors, captivating paintings, Tiffany-style glass lamps, fantastic wooden figurines and lots of fine silver jewelry.
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Plaza Carlos Iii
After Plaza de las Américas in Varadero, this is probably Cuba’s flashiest shopping mall – and there’s barely a foreigner in sight. Dresses, radios and bicycles – they’re all on sale here. Step in to see the double economy working at a feverish pitch.
reviewed
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Longina Música
This place on the pedestrian mall has a good selection of CDs, plus musical instruments such as bongos, guitars, maracas, guiros and tumbadoras (conga drums). It often places loudspeakers in the street outside to grab the attention of passing tourists.
reviewed
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La Casa del Habano
Cigar aficionados flock to this smoky cigar shop situated inside the beautiful Hostal Conde de Villanueva, popularly considered to be the expert’s choice. Dodge the rogue cigar sellers on Calle Obispo, and come and join them.
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Habana 1791
A specialist shop that sells perfume made from tropical flowers, Havana 1791 retains the air of a working museum. Floral fragrances are mixed by hand and you can see the petals drying in a laboratory out the back.
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Galería Manos
This gallery is effectively a small craft outlet, with dolls, masks and other handmade souvenirs supplied by local people. Many of the objects are inspired by the city’s vibrant Afro-Cuban community.
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Marco Polo
This is a popular spice and herb store that is always busy with both foreigners and locals. Run by Habaguanex, its large range of varied products can be used for both gastronomic and medicinal purposes.
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Galerías de Paseo
This place is a surprisingly upscale shopping center with Adidas and Chanel labels and even a car dealership. It sells designer clothes and other consumer items to tourists and affluent Cubans.
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Casa de la Música Miramar
An outlet of Egrem, Cuba’s national music recording and publishing company, at Miramar’s Casa de la Música, this place has an excellent selection of CDs.
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Feria de la Artesanía
This artisan market has much of the same as its Habana Vieja counterpart, with a few handmade shoes and sandals, and some old stamps and coins thrown in for good measure.
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ARTex
A fabulous selection of old movie posters, antique postcards, T-shirts and, of course, all the greatest Cuban films on videotape are sold at this shop inside the cinema.
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Harris Brothers
The best-stocked grocery store in Habana Vieja sells everything from fresh pastries to baby’s nappies. It’s just off Parque Central and is open until late.
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La Maison
The Cuban fashion fascination is in high gear at this place, with a large boutique selling designer clothing, shoes, handbags, jewelry, cosmetics and souvenirs.
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El Bulevar
This is the pedestrianized part of Calle San Rafael just behind the Hotel Inglaterra. Come here for peso snacks and surprises and 1950s shopping nostalgia.
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Supermercado Isla de Cuba
On the southern side of Parque de la Fraternidad, with yogurt, cereals, pasta etc. You have to check your bag outside, to the right of the entrance.
reviewed
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Supermercado Meridiano
Across the street from the Hotel Meliá Cohiba, this supermarket has a good wine and liquor selection, lots of yogurt, cheese and chips.
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La Época
A hard-currency department store with a supermarket in the basement. Check your bags outside before entering this epic Havana emporium.
reviewed
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Miramar Trade Center
The Miramar Trade Center is Cuba’s largest and most modern shopping and business center with myriad stores.
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Casa del Abanico
The Abanico is a small specialist store that sells fine-quality hand-painted fans. It is primarily aimed at the tourist market.
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Calles 19 & A
Havana’s ‘gourmet’ market, with cauliflower, fresh herbs and rarer produce during shoulder seasons.
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