Must-see restaurants in Havana

  • Restaurante la Divina Pastora

    Regla, Guanabacoa & the Forts

    Near Dársena de los Franceses and a battery of 18th-century cannons, this dramatically sited waterside restaurant lies in the shadow of La Cabaña fort…

  • Casa Española

    Havana

    A medieval parody built in the Batista era by the silly-rich Gustavo Gutiérrez y Sánchez, this crenellated castle in Miramar has found new life as a…

  • Las Majaguas

    Outer Havana

    Sandwiched between Parque Lenin and the Jardin Botánico Nacional, Las Majaguas is a tourist-free zone where locals come to play pool and other bar games…

  • El Idilio

    Vedado

    A bold, adventurous neighborhood joint with checked tablecloths, Idilio epitomizes the Cuban culinary scene as it spreads its wings and flies. Anything…

  • La Ceiba

    Outer Havana

    La Ceiba is a thatched ranchón at the northern entrance to Parque Lenin, close to where the galloping horse hustlers congregate. Come here for the…

  • Restaurante Tien-Tan

    Havana

    One of the few authentic Chinese restaurants in Barrio Chino, Tien-Tan (Temple of Heaven) is run by a Chinese-Cuban couple and serves an incredible 130…

  • La Terraza de Cojímar

    Habana del Este

    Another shrine to the ghost of Hemingway, La Terraza specializes in seafood and does a roaring trade with the hordes of Papa fans who are bused in daily…

  • Casa Abel

    Havana

    Rum and cigars dominate proceedings at Casa Abel. Several dishes contain meats doused in Cuba's favorite tipple (including chicken marinated in rum and…

  • Café del Oriente

    Habana Vieja

    A posh, elegant side to Havana greets you as you walk through the door at this long-standing state-run establishment in Plaza de San Francisco de Asís…

  • Pan.com

    Habana del Este

    It’s cheap, it’s state run and it’s pretty gritty inside, but this Cuban fast-food joint in Guanabo lures in locals with hot sandwiches on wonderful…

  • La Ferminia

    Havana

    The out-of-the-way Ferminia is old-school Havana posh. During rougher economic times it drew in diplomats and famous visitors in spades (Fidel Castro ate…

  • Restaurante 421

    Habana del Este

    Ask a local where to eat in Guanabo and they'll probably direct you up the gentle hill behind the main roundabout to this pleasant perch that has a…

  • Casa 1740

    Outer Havana

    One of the quieter eating options in Parque Lenin is set in a small house south of the lake and is air-conditioned to replicate a chilly day in Canada…

  • Toke Infanta y 25

    Vedado

    Buried amid the bruised edifices of Calzada de la Infanta on the border of Vedado and Centro Habana, Toke is a simple cafe serving economical hamburguesas…

  • La Vitrola

    Habana Vieja

    A retro '50s place on the corner of Plaza Vieja where the live band never seems to stop playing, La Vitrola is routinely swamped by tourists in the…

  • Siete Días

    Havana

    This seaside spot has a very decent menu, but it’s really the ambience, location and view that make it so memorable. Housed in a beautiful mansion, the…

  • La Herradura

    Outer Havana

    This indoor restaurant at Parque Lenin's Centro Ecuestre (horse center) will deliver the goods if you've just been trotting around the trails. Its…

  • Oasis Nelva

    Habana Vieja

    Havana’s new experts on sweet and savory crepes have built a strong reputation on simple foundations. There’s an eco-minded recycling aesthetic (jam jars…

  • Restaurante la Dominica

    Habana Vieja

    Back in the Castro era this was one of Havana's few decent Italian restaurants, but in recent years it has been overtaken by better private competition…

  • Mi Cayito

    Habana del Este

    A small bar-restaurant reached via a raised boardwalk that overlooks Laguna Itabo, a small lagoon abutting Playa Boca Ciega, Mi Cayito is a quiet spot…

  • Chicken Little

    Habana del Este

    Forgive it the kitschy name – Chicken Little could yet make it big. Defying Guanabo’s ramshackle image, this deluxe restaurant has polite waitstaff with…

  • Pan.com

    Havana

    In McDonald's-free Havana, Pan.com is about as fast as food gets. This small, state-run Cuban chain does hearty sandwiches (on proper Cuban bread!), cheap…

  • Nao Bar Paladar

    Habana Vieja

    Nao occupies a 200-year-old building near the docks and its decor plays on the appropriate seafaring theme. The small upstairs space is good for main…

  • Don Pepe

    Habana del Este

    When the Guanabo pizza gets too much, head to this thatched-roof, beach-style restaurant about 50m from the sands of Playa Santa María. It specializes in…

  • Mama Inés

    Habana Vieja

    Mama's is run by Fidel Castro's ex-chef Erasmo, whose CV lists a veritable who’s who of celebrity 'lefties' he's cooked for, from Hollywood actors to…

  • Restaurante el Bambú

    Outer Havana

    Once the only example of vegetarian dining in Havana, El Bambú has long been a leading advocate of the benefits of a meatless diet (a tough call in Cuba's…

  • Casa del Queso La Marriage

    Habana Vieja

    A good idea that started well but has since gone a bit mouldy, this specialist cheese shop serves cheese boards accompanied by glasses of Chilean wine –…

  • La Mina

    Habana Vieja

    With a mediocre menu but a top-class location, state-run La Mina graces a shady corner of Plaza de Armas (so every tourist walks past it at some point)…

  • Paladar los Amigos

    Vedado

    Not tempted to go modern and pretentious, Los Amigos sticks to the basics, offering traditional Cuban fare with lashings of rice and beans in a family…

  • Café Santo Domingo

    Habana Vieja

    Squeezed above a busy local bakery in one of Habana Vieja's oldest buildings, this no-frills, light-on-the-wallet place is aimed more at locals than…

  • Restaurante Paris

    Habana Vieja

    The 'Paris' is all about the setting: one of Havana's finest 18th-century baroque mansions, situated slap-bang in the middle of its most beautiful square,…

  • Hanoi

    Habana Vieja

    The name might suggest solidarity with 'communist' Vietnam, but don't get too excited: you won't find any Saigon-flavored spring rolls here. Instead, what…

  • El Viejo Amigo

    Havana

    In an upstairs location on Calle Dragones, this place is run by Chi Tack Tong Chinese Association and has long been famous for its extensive menu and…

  • Restaurante la Cova

    Havana

    Part of the Pizza Nova chain, this place, like much of Marina Hemingway, has seen better days. It's an OK choice if you're short on options (which you…

  • Restaurante Costarenas

    Habana del Este

    This scruffy place is part of Villa Los Pinos, but it'll serve you its OK-ish fish dishes and pizzas either on a breezy 1st-floor terrace or under…

  • Pizzería Mi Rinconcito

    Habana del Este

    Located near Villa Los Pinos, this place serves up a reasonably good pizza-fest, plus cannelloni, lasagna, salads and spaghetti. Ideal for beach day…

  • El Cubano

    Habana del Este

    This is a spick-and-span place at Guanabo's western, Boca Ciega end, with a full wine rack (French and Californian), checked tablecloths and a good…

  • Supermercado Meridiano

    Vedado

    Across the street from the Hotel Meliá Cohiba, this supermarket has a good wine and liquor selection, and lots of yogurt, cheese and crisps.

  • Supermercado 3ra & 70

    Havana

    Formally known as the 'Diplomercado,' from the days when only diplomats came here, this place is large by Cuban standards and has a decent selection of…

  • La Época

    Havana

    This supermarket is in the basement of a department store. Check your bags outside before entering this old-school Havana emporium.