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Restaurante Las Orishas
This Santería-themed place in Guanabacoa has a very pleasant garden bar in a courtyard with colorful Afro-Cuban sculptures. The menu is reasonable and varied, with everything from a dirt-cheap microwaved cheese pizza to a wallet-whacking lobster. There's good rumba music here at weekends.
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Restaurante Los Doce Apóstoles
Set in the shadow of El Morro, the Restaurante Los Doce Apóstoles is named for the battery of 12 cannons atop its ramparts. It serves comida criolla , and is a better-than-average government-run kitchen. Prices are fair.
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Restaurante Oasis
The Oasis is housed in the Centro Cultural de Arabe, but don't get your hopes up. The food here is bog-standard Cuban, and not particularly good at that - unless you've got a penchant for dodgy hot dogs or soggy cheese-and-ham sandwiches - but it's the kind of place where you'll see Cubans eating, and makes no provision for 'Western' palates. The shop downstairs is handy for late-night groceries, but the weekend disco is a jinetera -fest.
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Restaurante Wakamba
One of several restaurants in scruffy Calle O, the Wakamba has been serving customers since 1956. It is named after an African tribe and subregion in Kenya (Wakamba art decorates the wall) and, prior to the revolution, it was a famous nightclub. Today the Wakamba serves good cheap food such as chicken stuffed with ham, chorizo, olives and cheese. An adjacent cafeteria (24hr) has hot dogs and other snacks.
