Caribbean restaurants in Havana
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A
El Aljibe
On paper a humble Palmares restaurant, but in reality a rip-roaring culinary extravaganza, El Aljibe has been delighting both Cuban and foreign diplomatic taste buds for years. The furore surrounds the gastronomic mysteries of just one dish, the obligatory pollo asado (roast pork), which is served up with as-much-as-you-can-eat helpings of white rice, black beans, fried plantain, French fries and salad. The accompanying bitter orange sauce is said to be a state secret.
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B
Las Ruinas
One of Havana's most celebrated restaurants – at least in an architectural sense – is situated on the southeast side of Parque Lenin. Melding off-beat modern architecture, including some eye-catching stained glass by Cuban artist René Portocarrero, onto the ruins of an old sugar mill, this place has an arty and elegant atmosphere, though the food (which is grossly overpriced) doesn't quite live up to the lavish setting. The menu includes lobster plus a selection of Cuban and Italian dishes, and you'll be lucky to get much change out of CUC$30. Overrated.
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C
La Ferminia
Havana gets swanky at this memorable restaurant set in an elegant converted colonial mansion in the leafy neighborhood of Flores. Dine inside in one of a handful of beautifully furnished rooms, or outside on a glorious garden patio – it doesn't matter. The point is the food. Try the mixed grill, pulled straight from the fire, or lobster tails pan-fried in breadcrumbs. There's a strict dress code here: no shorts or sleeveless T-shirts (guys). It's one of the few places where Fidel Castro has dined in public.
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D
La Mina
A mediocre menu but a top-class location, La Mina graces a scenic corner of Plaza de Armas, meaning every tourist in Havana walks past it at some point. The food options – displayed on a stand in the street outside and backed up by an army of verbose waiters – include chicken, pork and prawns cooked in a variety of different ways, but lack culinary panache. There's a tempting Heladería (ice-cream parlor) around the corner in Calle Oficios.
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E
Cafetería Torre la Vega
This is the flop-down lunchtime place that everyone hits in the middle of a sightseeing tour. It's perfectly placed in the middle of the Old Town, with tables spilling onto the street and into a little park opposite. Diners sit with their noses in guidebooks chomping on 'spag bol,' pizza, chicken and sandwiches, none of it particularly expensive.
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F
Restaurante el Patio
When the hustlers stay away, El Patio is one of the most romantic settings on the planet: the mint stalks in your mojito are pressed to perfection and the band breaks spontaneously into your favorite tune. This place – in the Plaza de la Catedral – must be experienced at night alfresco, when the atmosphere is almost otherworldly. The food doesn't quite match the setting.
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G
El Conejito
A red-bricked Tudor-style mansion with lederhosen-clad waiters that serves rabbit (CUC$8 and up); now that's classic! If the conejo (rabbit) doesn't grab you, try the chicken, beef, fish or lobster. The rather surreal ambience is lightened somewhat by a resident pianist serenading romantically in the background.
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H
El Lugar
Set in Parque Almendares just across the road from the river below the bridge, this place is fantastic value, offering juicy pork filets, a Pico Turquino of congrí (rice flecked with black beans), salad, tostones (fried plantain patties), ice cream and coffee. There's music in the evenings.
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I
La Cecilia
All-time Havana classic, this classy place is up there with El Aljibe in terms of food quality (check out the ropa vieja), but trumps all comers with its big-band music, which blasts out on weekend nights inside its large but atmospheric courtyard.
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J
Restaurante los Doce Apóstoles
Parts of the fortresses have been converted into good restaurants and atmospheric bars including this one below El Morro. The restaurant is so named (doce means '12') because of the battery of 12 cannons atop its ramparts. The restaurant serves comida criolla, and it's a better-than-average government-run kitchen with fair prices.
reviewed
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K
Paladar Doña Carmela
A private eating option that offers quality chicken and pork in a very pleasant alfresco setting (when it's open). Makes for a good dinner before or after the cañonazo, but check ahead, as opening times are sporadic.
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L
Dos Gardenias
You can choose from a grill or a pasta restaurant in this complex, which is famous as a bolero hot-spot. Stick around to hear the singers belting out ballads later on.
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M
La Casona & 17
Eclectic Vedado residence turned restaurant. Eat in the elegant dining room or outside at the barbecue grill.
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