Live Music entertainment in Havana
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A
Callejón de Hamel
Aside from its funky street murals and psychedelic art shops, the main reason to come to Havana’s high temple of Afro-Cuban culture is for the frenetic rumba music that kicks off every Sunday at around noon. For aficionados, this is about as raw and hypnotic as it gets, with interlocking drum patterns and lengthy rhythmic chants powerful enough to summon up the spirit of the orishas (Santería deities). Due to a liberal sprinkling of tourists these days, some argue that the Callejón has lost much of its basic charm. Don’t believe them. This place can still deliver.
reviewed
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B
El Hurón Azul
If you want to rub shoulders with some socialist celebrities, hang out with the intellectuals at Hurón Azul, the social club of the Unión Nacional de Escritores y Artistas de Cuba (Uneac; Union of Cuban Writers and Artists), Cuba’s leading cultural institution. Replete with priceless snippets of Cuba’s under-the-radar cultural life, most performances take place outside in the garden. Wednesday is the Afro-Cuban rumba, Saturday is authentic Cuban boleros, and alternate Thursdays there’s jazz and trova. You’ll never pay more than CUC$5.
reviewed
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Casa de la Amistad
Housed in a beautiful rose-colored mansion on leafy Paseo, the Casa de la Amistad mixes traditional son sounds with suave Benny Moré music in a classic Italian Renaissance–style garden. Buena Vista Social Club luminary, Compay Segundo, was a regular here before his death in 2003 and there is a weekly ‘Chan Chan’ night in his honor. Other perks include a restaurant, bar, cigar shop and the house itself – an Italianite masterpiece.
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D
Casa de la Música
Launched with a concert by renowned jazz pianist Chucho Valdés in 1994, this Miramar favorite is run by national Cuban recording company, Egrem, and the programs are generally a lot more authentic than the cabaret entertainment you see at the hotels. Platinum players such as NG La Banda, Los Van Van and Aldaberto Álvarez y Su Son play here regularly; you’ll rarely pay more than CUC$20. It has a more relaxed atmosphere than its Centro Habana namesake.
reviewed
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E
La Madriguera
Locals bill it as a ‘hidden place for open ideas, ’ while outsiders are bowled over by its musical originality and artistic innovation. Welcome to La Madriguera – home to the Hermanos Saíz organization, the youth wing of Uneac. This is where the pulse of Cuba’s young musical innovators beats the strongest. Come here for arts, crafts, spontaneity and the three Rs: reggaetón (Cuban hip-hop), rap and rumba.
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F
Salón Rosado Benny Moré
For something completely different, check out the very caliente action at this outdoor venue. The Rosado (aka El Tropical) packs in hot, sexy Cuban youths dancing madly to Los Van Van, Pupi y Su Son Son or Habana Abierta. It’s a fierce scene and female travelers should expect aggressive come-ons. Friday to Sunday is best. Some travelers pay pesos, others dollars – more of that Cuban randomness for you.
reviewed
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La Casa de la Música Centro Habana
One of Cuba’s best and most popular (check the queues) nightclubs and live-music venues; all the big names play here, from Bamboleo to Los Van Van – and you’ll pay peanuts to see them. Of the city’s two Casas de la Música, this Centro Habana version is a little edgier than its Miramar counterpart (some have complained it’s too edgy), with big salsa bands and little space. Price varies depending on the band.
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H
Casa de la Trova
Strangely, Habana’s Casa de la Trova is a bit of a damp squib compared to other famous Casas de la Trova in Santiago de Cuba and Camagüey. It’s traditionally a haven for son music of the type popularized by Ry Cooder’s Buena Vista Social Club, but the schedule here is sporadic. Check the upcoming program before turning up.
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Café Taberna
Founded in 1772 and still glowing after a recent 21st-century makeover, this drinking and eating establishment is a great place to prop up the (impressive) bar and sink a few cocktails before dinner. The music – which gets swinging around 8pm – doffs its cap, more often than not, to one-time resident mambo king Benny Moré. Skip the food.
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La Lluvia de Oro
It’s on Obispo and there’s always live music belting through the doorway – so it’s always crowded. But with a higher-than-average jinetero/jinetera to tourist ratio, it might not be your most intimate introduction to Havana. Small snacks are available and the musicians ‘hat’ comes round every three songs.
reviewed
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K
Piano Bar Delirio Habanero
This suave lounge upstairs in the Teatro Nacional de Cuba hosts everything from young trovadores to smooth, improvised jazz. The deep red couches abut a wall of glass overlooking the Plaza de la Revolución, and it’s stunning at night with the Martí Memorial alluringly backlit.
reviewed
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La Casa del Escabeche
La Casa del Escabeche is a good early diversion, a tiny bar with an accompanying restaurant that somehow manages to squeeze a guitarist, singer, drummer and double bass into its packed and smoky interior. Enjoy the music from the street outside as it drifts through the wooden grilles.
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L
Café París
Jump into the mix by grabbing one of the rough-hewn tables at this Habana Vieja standby, known for its live music and gregarious atmosphere. On good nights, the rum flows, talented musicians jam and spontaneous dancing and singing erupt from the crowd.
reviewed
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M
Bar-Club Imágenes
This upscale piano bar attracts something of an older crowd with its regular diet of boleros (ballads) and trova, though there are sometimes comedy shows; check the schedule posted outside. Affordable meals are available (minimum CUC$5).
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