Entertainment in Eastern Cuba
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Casa de la Trova
Nearly 40 years after its initial incarnation, Santiago's shrine to the power of traditional music is still going strong and continuing to attract big names such as Buena Vista Social Club singer Eliades Ochoa. Warming up on the ground floor in the late afternoon, the action slowly gravitates upstairs where, come 10pm, everything starts to get a shade more caliente. Arrive with a good pair of shoes and prepare to be – quite literally – whisked off your feet.
reviewed
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B
Estadio de Béisbol Guillermón Moncada
This stadium is on the northeastern side of town within walking distance of the main hotels. During the baseball season, from October to April, there are games at 7:30pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday, and 1:30pm Sunday (one peso). The Avispas (Wasps) are the main rivals of Havana's Industriales with National Series victories in 2005, 2007 and 2008. Cubanacán runs trips to Avispa games with a visit to the dressing room afterwards to meet the players.
reviewed
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C
Casa de las Tradiciones
The most discovered 'undiscovered' spot in Santiago still retains its smoke-filled, foot-stomping, front-room feel. Hidden in the gentile Tivolí district, some of Santiago de Cuba's most exciting ensembles, singers and soloists take turns improvising. Friday nights are reserved for straight-up, classic trova, à la Ñico Saquito and the like.
reviewed
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D
Patio ARTex
Art lines the walls of this shop-and-club combo that hosts live music both day and night in a quaint inner courtyard; a good bet if the Casa de la Trova is full, or too frenetic.
reviewed
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E
Casa de la Música
Similar to the venues in Havana, this Casa de la Música features a mix of live salsa and taped disco and is usually a cracking night out.
reviewed
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Tropicana Santiago
Anything Havana can do, Santiago can do better – or at least cheaper. Styled on the Tropicana original, this 'feathers and baubles' Las Vegas–style floor show is heavily hyped by all the city's tour agencies who offer it for CUC$35 plus transport (Havana's show is twice the price, but no way twice as good). Located out of town, 3km north of the Hotel las Américas, a taxi or rental car is the only independent transport option, making the tour-agency deals a good bet. The Saturday night show is superior.
reviewed
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F
El Ranchón
Atop a long flight of stairs at the western end of Coroneles Galano, El Ranchón mixes an exhilarating hilltop setting with taped disco and salsa music and legions of resident jineteras (women who attach themselves to male foreigners). Maybe that's why it's so insanely popular. Watch your step on the way down – it's a scary 146-step drunken tumble.
reviewed
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G
Foco Cultural el Tivolí
Carnaval practice for the Sarabanda Mayombe happens weekly at this Tivolí foco (a show that takes place in Tivolí). Saturdays at 5pm it performs a mágica religiosa program of orishas (Afro-Cuban religious deities), bembé (Afro-Cuban drumming ritual) and palo monte (Bantu-derived Afro-Cuban religion) at the nearby Casa de las Tradiciones.
reviewed
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Teatro José María Heredia
Santiago's huge, modern theater and convention center went up during the city refurbishment in the early 1990s. Rock and folk concerts often take place in the 2459-seat Sala Principal, while the 120-seat Café Cantante Niagara hosts more esoteric events. Ask about performances by the Compañía Teatro Danza del Caribe.
reviewed
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Café de la Catedral
A frigidly air-conditioned cafe sheltered beneath the cathedral that offers 24 different types of coffee – with a biscuit, if you're lucky. There are some coffee-farming artifacts scattered around the interior and a colorful cafetal mural emblazoned on the wall.
reviewed
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J
Bar la Fontana di Trevi
Could it be that the lounge trend has hit Santiago de Cuba? You might think so walking into this cocoon off José A Saco with low stools grouped around individual tables lining the wall. Just don't order any apple martinis; it's strictly peso beer and rum at this cool saloon.
reviewed
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K
Club el Iris
Just off Plaza de Marte, with an old-fashioned neon sign (which rarely works), the Iris is Santiago de Cuba's loudest, hottest and most 'happening' disco. The cover includes one drink, but at night it's couples only. Things generally get moving around midnight.
reviewed
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Bar La Fontana
Could it be the lounge trend has hit Santiago de Cuba? You might think so walking into this cocoon off José A Saco with low stools grouped around individual tables lining the wall. Just don't order any apple martinis; it's strictly peso beer and rum at this cool saloon.
reviewed
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M
Foco Cultural Tumba Francesa
Ask about practice sessions at the studios of the Conjunto Folklórico de Oriente and the Foco Cultural Tumba Francesa at General Banderas. Traditional dancing also takes place at other focos culturales (cultural shows) around town most evenings.
reviewed
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Casa de la Cultura
This venue does a wide variety of shows including some good rumba incorporating the textbook Cuban styles of guaguancó, yambú and columbia (subgenres of rumba). Go prepared for mucho audience participation.
reviewed
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Casa de la Trova Victorino Rodríguez
Cuba's smallest, zaniest, wildest and most atmospheric casa de la trova (trova house) rocks nightly to the voodoo-like rhythms of changüí-son. Order a mojito in a jam jar and sit back and enjoy the show.
reviewed
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P
Sala de Conciertos Dolores
Housed in a former church on Plaza de Dolores, you can catch the Sinfónica del Oriente here, plus the impressive children's choir (at 5pm). The cartelera is posted outside.
reviewed
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Q
Discoteca Espanta Sueño
This is the Meliá Santiago de Cuba’s house disco; entry is through the hotel lobby, ostensibly to keep out jineteras, though they’re more relaxed these days.
reviewed
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Marylin
Standing room only at this rough-hewn counter on Saco where you can quickly fortify yourself with an eye-watering shot of Ron Caney before walking in a straight line up the street.
reviewed
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Cine Cuba
Recipient of a recent refurbishment, this place is the best in town with an inviting lobby, a decent array of movies and plenty of crowds.
reviewed
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Teatro Martí
Children's shows are staged at 5pm on Saturday and Sunday at this theater near General Portuondo, opposite the Iglesia de Santo Tomás.
reviewed
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Taberna de Dolores
Classic local place on Plaza de Dolores that serves light food but is much better for its beer and rum. The patio tables are the best.
reviewed
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Pista de Baile Pacho Alonso
Check out the charanga (brass band) orchestra playing alfresco at this place behind Teatro José María Heredia.
reviewed
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Sala Teatro El Mambí
This venue near the cathedral presents Spanish-language plays in the evening and puppet/clown theater for children on weekends.
reviewed
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Orfeón Santiago
This classical choir sometimes allows visitors to attend its practice sessions from 9am to 11:30am Monday to Friday.
reviewed