Things to do in Trinidad
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Disco Ayala
It might not be the first time you’ve gone jiving in a cave, but this surreal place up by the Ermita Popa church beats all others for atmosphere and animation. While it’s mainly a place to let rip and dance J-Lo style in the semi-darkness with as many mojitos as you care to sink, this disco also puts on a decent cabaret show with a pre-Columbian Indian theme.
reviewed
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Restaurante Plaza Mayor
The best bet courtesy of its on-off lunchtime buffet, which, for around CUC$10, ought to fill you up until dinnertime. Nighttime offerings aren’t bad either if you stick to the chicken and beef, though the atmosphere can be a little flat.
reviewed
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Paladar Estela
You can choose the dining room or pretty rear garden to take your meals in this popular place located above the Plaza Mayor (the owner also rents rooms). Cordero (lamb) served shredded is the house specialty, and the portions are large.
reviewed
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Museo Histórico Municipal
The showpiece museum here is the grandiose Museo Histórico Municipal, just off Plaza Mayor, housed in a mansion that belonged to the Borrell family from 1827 to 1830. Later the building passed to a German planter named Kanter or Cantero, and it’s still called Casa Cantero. Reputedly Dr Justo Cantero acquired vast sugar estates by poisoning an old slave trader and marrying his widow, who also suffered an untimely death. Cantero’s ill-gotten wealth is well displayed in the stylish neoclassical decoration of the rooms. The view of Trinidad from the top of the tower alone is worth the price of admission. Visit before 11am, when the tour buses start rolling in.
reviewed
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San Francisco de Asís
Perhaps the most recognizable building in Trinidad is the quaint yellow bell-tower of the former convent of San Francisco de Asís. Since 1986 the building has housed the Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra Bandidos (tel:4121, open from 09:00 to 18:00 Tuesday to Sunday).
The displays are mostly photos, maps, weapons and other objects relating to the struggle against the various counterrevolutionary bands that operated in Sierra del Escambray between 1960 and 1965. The fuselage of a US U-2 spy plane shot down over Cuba is also on display. Here, too, you can climb the tower for good views. It's on the corner of Piro Guinart.
reviewed
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Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra Bandidos
Perhaps the most recognizable building in Trinidad is the withered pastel-yellow bell-tower of the former convent of San Francisco de Asís. Since 1986 the building has housed the Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra Bandidos. The displays are mostly photos, maps, weapons and other objects relating to the struggle against the various counterrevolutionary bands that took a leaf out of Fidel’s book and operated illicitly out of the Sierra del Escambray between 1960 and 1965. The fuselage of a US U-2 spy plane shot down over Cuba is also on display. You can climb the tower for good views.
reviewed
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Iglesia Parroquial de la Santísima Trinidad
Despite its rather unremarkable outer facade, the Iglesia Parroquial de la Santísima Trinidad, on the northeastern side of Plaza Mayor, graces countless Trinidad postcard views. Rebuilt in 1892 on the site of an earlier church destroyed in a storm, the church mixes 20th-century touch-ups with older artifacts from as far back as the 18th century, such as the venerated Christ of the True Cross (1713), which occupies the second altar from the front to the left. Your best chance of seeing it is during Mass at 8pm weekdays, 4pm Saturday, and 9am and 5pm Sunday.
reviewed
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Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Popa
For a bird's-eye view of Trinidad, walk straight up Simón Bolívar, the street between the Iglesia Parroquial and the Museo Romántico, to the destroyed 18th-century Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Popa, part of a former Spanish military hospital. It's on a hill to the north of the old town, a favorite sunset-watching spot (use insect repellant).
From here it's a 30-minute hike up the hill to the radio transmitter atop 180m-high Cerro de la Vigía, which delivers broad vistas of Trinidad, Playa Ancón and the entire littoral.
reviewed
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Casa Templo de Santería Yemayá
No Santería museum can replicate the ethereal spiritual experience of Regla de Ocha, though the Casa Templo de Santería Yemayá has a try. Containing a Santería altar to Yemayá, Goddess of the Sea with myriad offerings of fruit, water and stones, the house is presided over by santeros (priests of the Afro-Cuban religion Santería) who’ll emerge from the back patio and surprise you with some well-rehearsed tourist spiel. On the saint’s anniversary, March 19, ceremonies are performed day and night.
reviewed
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Ranchón El Cubano
A pleasant spot 5km from Trinidad with a ranchón- style restaurant that specializes in pez gato (catfish), a fish farm, and a 2km trail to a refreshing waterfall. There are also stables here and opportunities to partake in horseback riding. If you hike to El Cubano from Trinidad, you’ll clock up a total of approximately 16km. With a stop for lunch in the ranchón, it can make an excellent day trip.
reviewed
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Museo Romántico
The Museo Romántico is in the glittering Palacio Brunet. The ground floor was built in 1740, and the upstairs was added in 1808. In 1974 the mansion was converted into a museum with 19th-century furnishings, a fine collection of china and various other period pieces. Pushy museum staff will materialize out of the shadows for a tip. The shop adjacent has a good selection of photos and books in English.
reviewed
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Casa de la Música
One of Trinidad’s and Cuba’s classic venues, this casa is an alfresco affair that congregates on the sweeping staircase beside the Iglesia Parroquial off Plaza Mayor. A good mix of tourists and locals take in the 10pm salsa/dance show here. Alternatively, full-on salsa concerts are held in the casa’s rear courtyard (also accessible from Juan Manuel Márquez; cover CUC$2).
reviewed
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Cafetería Las Begonias
The day-time nexus for Trinidad’s transient backpacker crowd, meaning it’s a good font of local information and the best place in town to meet other travelers over sandwiches, espresso and ice cream. There’s a bar behind a partition wall, clean (ish) toilets in a rear courtyard, and four or five cheap – but always crowded – internet terminals.
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Museo de Arquitectura Trinitaria
A public display of wealth is in the Museo de Arquitectura Trinitaria, on the southeastern side of Plaza Mayor, showcasing upper-class domestic architecture of the 18th and 19th centuries. The museum is housed in buildings erected in 1738 and 1785 that were joined together in 1819. It was once the residence of the wealthy Iznaga family.
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Paladar Sol y Son
All the ingredients of a fine Trinidad evening – think antiques, an elegant patio and the dulcet strains of an eloquent trovador – plus good food thrown in. Even the waiting room (yes, it gets busy) is a veritable museum piece. The house special is roast chicken and it’s worth the wait. English is spoken here.
reviewed
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Bar Daiquirí
Presumably Papa Hemingway never dropped by this cozy joint named after the drink he so famously popularized because the prices are extremely reasonable. Shoehorned into lively Lino Pérez, this is where locals and backpackers warm up on their way to an all-night salsa binge. There are snacks, if you’ve got the stomach.
reviewed
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Mesón del Regidor
A cafe-cum-restaurant with a friendly ambience and a revolving lineup of local musicians, including the town’s best trovador, Israel Moreno, who’ll drop by during the day and serenade you with a song over grilled cheese sandwiches and café con leche (coffee with milk). Savor the surprise.
reviewed
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Casa Fischer
This is the local ARTex patio, which cranks up at 10pm with a salsa orchestra (on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday) or a folklore show (Friday). If you’re early, kill time at its art gallery (free) and chat to the staff at the on-site Paradiso office about salsa lessons and other courses.
reviewed
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Palenque de los Congos Reales
A must for rumba fans, this open patio on Trinidad’s music alley has an eclectic menu incorporating salsa, son (Cuban popular music) and trova (traditional poetic singing). The highlight, however, is the 10pm rumba drums with soulful African rhythms and energetic fire-eating dancers.
reviewed
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Galería de Arte
Admission is completely free at the 19th-century Palacio Ortiz, which today houses the Galería de Arte, on the southwestern side of Plaza Mayor. Worth a look for its quality local art, particularly the embroidery, pottery and jewelry; there’s also a pleasant courtyard.
reviewed
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Finca de Recreo María Dolores
Closer to town is the Finca de Recreo María Dolores, a rustic Cubanacán hotel that runs horseback-riding trips to El Cubano (CUC$15, four hours) and boat trips down the Río Guaurabo to La Boca (CUC$5), and hosts sporadic fiestas campesinas (country fairs).
reviewed
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Iglesia de Santa Ana
Only the shell remains of the Iglesia de Santa Ana, but just across the square is a former Spanish prison (1844) that has been converted into a tourist center, the Plaza Santa Ana (Calle Camilo Cienfuegos). The complex includes an art gallery, handicraft market, ceramics shop, bar and restaurant.
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Palacio Ortíz
Admission is completely free at the 19th-century Palacio Ortíz, which today houses the Galería de Arte, on the southwestern side of Plaza Mayor. Worth a look for its quality local art, particularly the embroidery, pottery and jewelry, there's also a nice courtyard and spiffy bathroom.
reviewed
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Arts & Crafts Market
This excellent open-air market situated in front of the Casa de la Trova is the place to buy souvenirs, especially textiles and crochet work – just avoid the black coral and turtle-shell items that are made from endangered species and are forbidden entry into many countries.
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Casa de Los Mártires de Trinidad
It’s easy to miss the small Casa de los Mártires de Trinidad, dedicated to 72 Trinidad residents who died in the struggle against Fulgencio Batista, the campaign against the counterrevolutionaries, and the little-mentioned war in Angola.
reviewed
