Arty and bathed in faded glory, beachside Bassam was Cote d'Ivoire's former French capital, until a yellow-fever epidemic broke out there, prompting the French to move their capital to Bingerville. The city is laid out on a long spit of land with a quiet lagoon on one side and the turbulent Atlantic Ocean on the other. If you take a dip, watch the strong currents.
Quiet little Assinie tugs at the heartstrings of overlanders, washed-up surfers and rich weekenders from Abidjan who run their quad bikes up and down its peroxide-blonde beach. It's actually a triumvirate of villages: Assinie village, Assinie Mafia and Assouindé. Watch the rip tides; they can be powerful.
When you've had your fill of the sun and sand in the south, or the hot winds and dust in the north, head to the green, green peaks and valleys of Man. Here the air is cooler, the food lighter and the landscapes muddier: perfect hiking territory. For local art, check out the Tankari Gallery and Jacky Gallery in the centre of town.
If you're considering scaling Mt Tonkoui, give La Dent de Man (Man's Tooth) a shot first. Northeast of town, this steep, molar-shaped mountain hits a height of 881m. Allow at least four hours for the round trip and bring snacks. The hike starts in the village of Zobale, 4km from Man. At 1223m, Mt Tonkoui is the second-highest peak in Côte d'Ivoire.
Framed by a strip of soft white sand on one side, and the distant shadows of the fertile Parc National de Taï on the other, a stop in San Pedro promises a sweet marriage of beach life and forest treks. It's also the best place to overnight if you're heading overland into Liberia via Tabou and Harper.
Sassandra & Around
Sassandra, a low-key beach resort in the far western corner of Cote d'Ivoire, may be a little dog-eared these days but there's something endearing – and enduring – here, for travellers keep going back. Perhaps it's the warm welcome at the gorgeous Best of Africa resort 35km east of Sassandra at Dagbego. The owners can help arrange trips in the area.