Things to do in Caribbean Coast
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Koki Beach
Doing its best to channel Miami Beach, this sleek spot cranking reggae-lite classics has fruit-colored paper lanterns and Adirondack chairs that face the ocean from an elevated wooden platform. There’s a decent selection of Peruvian-inflected ceviches, meat and seafood dishes as well as some watery cocktails. If you’re going to snack, the yucca chips and guacamole are quite good.
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Restaurante Coral Reef
This place attracts fish-lovers, who arrive for steaming portions of seafood stew served in a pleasant 2nd-story balcony overlooking the main drag. The place gets packed, especially in high season (make a reservation). It is located right next to Coco’s Bar, putting post-dinner drinks within easy reach.
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Coco's Bar
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@ E's
This restaurant and bar at Rocking J’s is much more than just a travelers hang-out. Run by a Cordon Bleu–trained chef, Eric, the menu is a pan-everything fusion of Thai, Mexican and US cuisine – covering the gamut from burgers to stir-fries as well as fancier dishes, like seared marlin.
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Finca La Isla Botanical Garden
To the west of town is a working tropical farm where the owners have been growing organic pepper, cacao, tropical fruits and ornamental plants for more than a decade. Part of the farm is set aside as a botanical garden, which is also good for bird-watching and for wildlife observation (look for sloths, poison-dart frogs and toucans). The informative guided tour (in English) includes admission, fruit tasting and a glass of fresh juice to finish, or you can buy a booklet (US$1) and take yourself on a self-guided tour.
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Veronica's Place
This delightful vegetarian cafe offers fresh, healthy interpretations of Caribbean food, using fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as soy products. Veronica rents cabins and has a macrobiotic health food store onsite.
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Playa Negra
The entire southern Caribbean coast - from Cahuita all the way south to Punta Mona - is lined with unbelievably beautiful beaches. Just northwest of town, Playa Negra offers the area's safest swimming, as well as excellent body boarding.
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Willie's Tours
Willie’s signature tour takes visitors to visit a Bribrí family and a KéköLdi iguana farm (US$25/55). He’s in a new location these days, on the main drag next to Cocorico Pizzeria Bar.
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Daryl Loth
A personable Canadian-born naturalist (formerly of Coterc) offers excellent boat trips in a super-silent electric motorboat, as well as turtle tours (in season) and guided hikes.
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Avarios del Caribe & Buttercup Center
About 10km north of Cahuita, this small wildlife sanctuary sits on an 88-hectare island in the delta of the Río Estrella. The now-famous orphaned sloth named Buttercup reigns over the grounds, ever since she was adopted by owners Luis and Judy at the age of five weeks.
Their passion for these funny creatures is contagious; informative guided tours (US$20 to US$30) allow visitors to meet some of the resident sloths. The center also offers a variety of excursions through the canals and lagoons of the Estrella delta, where 312 (and counting!) species of birds have been recorded. Besides the prolific birdlife, this lowland rain forest is home to monkeys, caimans, river otter…
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Surfing Salsa Brava
The biggest break in Costa Rica, for expert surfers only and dangerous even then, Salsa Brava is named for the heaping helping of 'sauce' it serves up on the sharp, shallow reef, continually collecting its debt of fun in broken skin, boards and bones.
There are a couple of take-off points: newbies waiting around to catch the popular North Peak should keep in mind that there are plenty of people in this town who gave up perks like mom's cooking and Wal-Mart just to surf this wave regularly. Don't get in their way. In a sense, it was the Salsa Brava that swept Puerto Viejo into the relaxed limelight it enjoys today.
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Playa Negra
At the northwest end of Cahuita, Playa Negra is a long, black-sand beach flying the bandera azul ecológica, a flag that indicates the beach is kept to the highest ecological standards. This is undoubtedly Cahuita’s top spot for swimming. Most importantly, it is generally never crowded. When the swells are big, this spot also has an excellent beach break. It is not one of the regular stops on the Costa Rica surfer circuit, which means more waves for you. Centro Turístico Brigitte in Playa Negra rents boards (half-day US$10) and offers lessons (two hours US$25).
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Reef Runner Divers
In Puerto Viejo this is the principal operator. If you are not certified, you can use a temporary license for US$65 or spring for the full PADI certification for US$325. In Punta Uva, check in with Punta Uva Dive Center, and in Manzanillo book trips with the highly reputable Aquamor Talamanca Adventures.
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Cacao Trails
Visit this exquisite new botanical garden and outdoor museum, where educational tours demonstrate the various uses of medicinal plants and the workings of a cacao plantation (plus you can see and sample the final product), with plenty of opportunities for wildlife sightings along the way.
An additional expedition allows further exploration by kayak. It's midway between Cahuita and Puerto Viejo; any bus between the two can drop you at the entrance. This is a great outing for kids.
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Exploradores Outdooors
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Roberto's Restaurant
Owned by one of the top fishing guides in the region, you know the seafood is going to be fresh at this charming candlelit spot. The restaurant uses organic ingredients whenever possible.
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Parque Vargas
The city’s main attraction is the waterfront Parque Vargas, an incongruous expanse of bench-lined sidewalks beneath a lost little jungle of tall palms and tropical flowers, centered on an appealingly decrepit bandstand.
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Jungles of Talamanca
West of Puerto Viejo, the Jungles of Talamanca is actually a small tropical nursery and cacao finca (chocolate farm). This Bribrí family welcome visitors to their home, where you can see them toast the cacao over an open fire then hand grind it into delicious chocolate or rich cocoa butter. For flavor, they might add nutmeg, black pepper or cinnamon, all grown on site. The resulting product is truly decadent.
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Parque Nacional Cahuita
Parque Nacional Cahuita contains one of the last living coral reefs in Costa Rica. It's accessible from the beach, but the best way to see the creatures under the sea is to hire a guide with a boat in Cahuita. If you prefer to walk, hike along the beach trail - you'll reach a sandy stretch cut off from the coastline by a rocky headland known as Punta Cahuita. The offshore coral reef has Cahuita's best snorkeling.
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Isla Uvita
This island is most famous as the site of Columbus' landing on his last trans-Atlantic voyage. It's also a popular destination for surfers, for its thrilling (and often punishing) left reef break. Those in the know claim that this is the most powerful left in Costa Rica, with 3m (9.8ft) waves on good days. Ask around the pier to hire a boat for the trip. Pack a picnic, as there are no facilities on the island.
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Cha Cha Cha!
In a corner veranda of an old house, this attractive expat favorite offers recommended cuisine del mundo (cuisine of the world). Dishes range from Jamaican jerk chicken to Cuban specialties to plenty of vegetarian options, including a ‘zen salad’ crafted from mandarin oranges, basil, cashews and macadamia nuts.
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El Loco Natural
This pleasant candle-lit patio cafe located 200m east of town serves up creative fusion cuisine, combining elements of Caribbean, Indian, Mexican and Thai cooking. Steamed spicy mussels in red-curry sauce and tandoori chicken in coconut are just a couple of stand-outs. But if you really want to give your taste-buds a joy ride, try the exquisite fish tacos – excellent with an icy guaro sour (₡2800) from the bar. Owner and chef Stash Golas is a rock star in the kitchen and an artist to boot. There is an encyclopedic list of vegetarian items (with Friday nights featuring additional vegan specialties). Do not miss.
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Patagonia Steak House
This friendly, family-run restaurant is a real-deal Argentinean-owned steak house. There is not much going on in the basic interior - just plain wooden tables and chairs - and there's an open kitchen, where you can see (and smell) the steaks sizzling on the grill. Washed down with a delicious Malbec from Mendoza, it's a meal you won't forget.
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Playa Bonita
While not the finest beach in the Caribbean, Playa Bonita offers sandy stretches of seashore and good swimming, conveniently close to Limón. Surfers head to Bonita for its point/reef break, which makes for a powerful (and sometimes dangerous) left. Just north, Portete is a small bay with a wicked right working off the southerly point.
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Café Viejo
This pricey, sceney Mediterranean lounge and restaurant gets good marks for fresh pastas, tasty pizzas and fancy cocktails. The upscale, romantic ambience makes it a safe bet for important dates – and its location right on the main drag makes for excellent people-watching.
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