Things to do in The Atlantic Slope
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Parque Vargas
The city’s main attraction is the waterfront Parque Vargas, an incongruous expanse of bench-lined sidewalks beneath a lost little jungle of tall palms and tropical flowers, centered on an appealingly decrepit bandstand.
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Isla Uvita
This island is most famous as the site of Columbus' landing on his last trans-Atlantic voyage. It's also a popular destination for surfers, for its thrilling (and often punishing) left reef break. Those in the know claim that this is the most powerful left in Costa Rica, with 3m (9.8ft) waves on good days. Ask around the pier to hire a boat for the trip. Pack a picnic, as there are no facilities on the island.
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Playa Bonita
While not the finest beach in the Caribbean, Playa Bonita offers sandy stretches of seashore and good swimming, conveniently close to Limón. Surfers head to Bonita for its point/reef break, which makes for a powerful (and sometimes dangerous) left. Just north, Portete is a small bay with a wicked right working off the southerly point.
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Sea Wall
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Veragua Rainforest Research & Adventure Park
In Las Brisas de Veragua, you’ll find this bells-and-whistles rainforest adventure park, nestled into the foothills of the Talamanca Mountains. A sprawling complex, it has guided tours of the forest along elevated walkways and maintained trails, as well as attractions such as an aerial tram, a reptile vivarium, an insectarium and hummingbird and butterfly gardens. There is also a zip-line canopy tour, available at an extra charge. Installations include a cafeteria and gift shop and many of the attractions are wheelchair-accessible – and a good way of exploring nature if traveling with an elderly person or small children. To get here, take the signed turned-off south from …
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Tortuguero Wildlife Tours
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Taquería y Antojería Yenori
This cute little Mexican spot serves tacos (₡600) and casados (₡2000). You have to ring the bell to get buzzed in, where you’ll find clean tables, chilled soda and a blaring air-con unit.
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Soda Restaurant Meli
One of many sodas surrounding the central market. It’s popular for its low prices and big servings of fried rice and casados.
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Soda Buenos Aires
Situated 1km west of Guápiles, on the south side of the main highway, is this popular soda (cheap, informal lunch counter) that comes highly recommended for its well-prepared fish dishes.
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Restaurante El Campesino
You’ll find good ol’ country cooking at this wholesome family spot (no alcohol sold) across the highway from the Burger King. Dip into tasty chorreadas (savory fresh-corn pancakes), arroz con pollo (chicken and rice) and torta de queso (a pile of cubed beef or chicken doused in melted cheese and served with corn tortillas).
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Restaurante Bionatura
In a town where everything seems to be deep-fried, this restaurant stands out for its focus on healthy vegetarian cuisine, including fresh fruit salads, veggie burgers and bistek de soya (soy steak) casados.
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Restaurant Brisas del Caribe
The best view in town isn’t over the waves, it’s over Parque Vargas, where outdoor tables and a breezy balcony make for good people-watching and decent Caribbean fare.
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Rainforest Aerial Tram
The brainchild of biologist Don Perry, a pioneer of rainforest canopy research, the Rainforest Aerial Tram is a worthwhile splurge if you want to visit the heights of the forest canopy in a gondola. The 2.6km ride takes 40 minutes each way, affording unusual plant-spotting and bird-watching opportunities. The fee includes a knowledgeable guide, which is helpful since the density of the vegetation can make observing animals difficult. A variety of other tours are also available.
If you are staying in San José, you can easily arrange a shuttle to the tram. The company has a booking office in San José, but it’s just as easy to make reservations over the phone. If you are dri…
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Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo
Enter this underexplored national park and you will have an idea of what Costa Rica looked like prior to the 1950s, when 75% of the country’s surface area was still covered in forest: steep hills cloaked in impossibly tall trees are interrupted only by cascading rivers and canyons. It has an extraordinary biodiversity due to the range of altitudes, from steamy 2906m cloud forest alongside Volcán Barva to lush, humid lowlands on the Caribbean slope. It’s most incredible feature, however, is that this massive park (the size of Rhode Island) is only 30 minutes north of San José.
Founded in the 1970s, Braulio Carrillo’s creation was the result of a unique compromise bet…
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Park Hotel
Sporting a 1970s Miami vibe, this semi-swanky (for Limón) eatery inside the town’s top hotel has bright pink and green linens and ocean views. There is a long menu, but the specialty here is seafood, including fish brochettes, shrimp-studded rice and sea bass served countless ways.
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Musmanni
For breakfast, you can’t go wrong with the baked goods at Musmanni.
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Más X Menos
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Más X Menos
This big supermarket, across the avenue, is useful for self-caterers.
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Jardín Botánico Las Cusingas
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El Rubio
The clutter of pick-up trucks out front is a clue that you have stumbled onto this popular family eatery. It offers a wide selection of grilled fish and roasted meats (the churrasco – flank steak – is truly excellent). And there is a good selection of bocas (savory bar snacks), including our favorite: chifrijo, a pile of rice and pinto beans studded with fried pork and capped with fresh tomato salsa and corn chips. From the Burger King, go 100m north, then 100m east on the dirt road.
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El Cevichito
The outdoor patio along the pedestrian mall is one of the city’s more pleasant spots. You’ll find locals gathering here to guzzle beer, talk soccer and devour tasty garlic fish.
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Ecofinca Andar
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Deleites
This attractive, well-stocked bakery sells, cookies, cakes, bread and even cappuccino.
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Coopetortuguero
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Cerro Dantas Wildlife Refuge
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