Things to do in Puerto Viejo De Talamanca
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Koki Beach
Doing its best to channel Miami Beach, this sleek spot cranking reggae-lite classics has fruit-colored paper lanterns and Adirondack chairs that face the ocean from an elevated wooden platform. There’s a decent selection of Peruvian-inflected ceviches, meat and seafood dishes as well as some watery cocktails. If you’re going to snack, the yucca chips and guacamole are quite good.
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@ E's
This restaurant and bar at Rocking J’s is much more than just a travelers hang-out. Run by a Cordon Bleu–trained chef, Eric, the menu is a pan-everything fusion of Thai, Mexican and US cuisine – covering the gamut from burgers to stir-fries as well as fancier dishes, like seared marlin.
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Finca La Isla Botanical Garden
To the west of town is a working tropical farm where the owners have been growing organic pepper, cacao, tropical fruits and ornamental plants for more than a decade. Part of the farm is set aside as a botanical garden, which is also good for bird-watching and for wildlife observation (look for sloths, poison-dart frogs and toucans). The informative guided tour (in English) includes admission, fruit tasting and a glass of fresh juice to finish, or you can buy a booklet (US$1) and take yourself on a self-guided tour.
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Veronica's Place
This delightful vegetarian cafe offers fresh, healthy interpretations of Caribbean food, using fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as soy products. Veronica rents cabins and has a macrobiotic health food store onsite.
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Playa Negra
The entire southern Caribbean coast - from Cahuita all the way south to Punta Mona - is lined with unbelievably beautiful beaches. Just northwest of town, Playa Negra offers the area's safest swimming, as well as excellent body boarding.
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Surfing Salsa Brava
The biggest break in Costa Rica, for expert surfers only and dangerous even then, Salsa Brava is named for the heaping helping of 'sauce' it serves up on the sharp, shallow reef, continually collecting its debt of fun in broken skin, boards and bones.
There are a couple of take-off points: newbies waiting around to catch the popular North Peak should keep in mind that there are plenty of people in this town who gave up perks like mom's cooking and Wal-Mart just to surf this wave regularly. Don't get in their way. In a sense, it was the Salsa Brava that swept Puerto Viejo into the relaxed limelight it enjoys today.
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Reef Runner Divers
In Puerto Viejo this is the principal operator. If you are not certified, you can use a temporary license for US$65 or spring for the full PADI certification for US$325. In Punta Uva, check in with Punta Uva Dive Center, and in Manzanillo book trips with the highly reputable Aquamor Talamanca Adventures.
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Exploradores Outdooors
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Jungles of Talamanca
West of Puerto Viejo, the Jungles of Talamanca is actually a small tropical nursery and cacao finca (chocolate farm). This Bribrí family welcome visitors to their home, where you can see them toast the cacao over an open fire then hand grind it into delicious chocolate or rich cocoa butter. For flavor, they might add nutmeg, black pepper or cinnamon, all grown on site. The resulting product is truly decadent.
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Parque Nacional Cahuita
Parque Nacional Cahuita contains one of the last living coral reefs in Costa Rica. It's accessible from the beach, but the best way to see the creatures under the sea is to hire a guide with a boat in Cahuita. If you prefer to walk, hike along the beach trail - you'll reach a sandy stretch cut off from the coastline by a rocky headland known as Punta Cahuita. The offshore coral reef has Cahuita's best snorkeling.
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El Loco Natural
This pleasant candle-lit patio cafe located 200m east of town serves up creative fusion cuisine, combining elements of Caribbean, Indian, Mexican and Thai cooking. Steamed spicy mussels in red-curry sauce and tandoori chicken in coconut are just a couple of stand-outs. But if you really want to give your taste-buds a joy ride, try the exquisite fish tacos – excellent with an icy guaro sour (₡2800) from the bar. Owner and chef Stash Golas is a rock star in the kitchen and an artist to boot. There is an encyclopedic list of vegetarian items (with Friday nights featuring additional vegan specialties). Do not miss.
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Patagonia Steak House
This friendly, family-run restaurant is a real-deal Argentinean-owned steak house. There is not much going on in the basic interior - just plain wooden tables and chairs - and there's an open kitchen, where you can see (and smell) the steaks sizzling on the grill. Washed down with a delicious Malbec from Mendoza, it's a meal you won't forget.
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Café Viejo
This pricey, sceney Mediterranean lounge and restaurant gets good marks for fresh pastas, tasty pizzas and fancy cocktails. The upscale, romantic ambience makes it a safe bet for important dates – and its location right on the main drag makes for excellent people-watching.
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Chile Rojo
If you are craving a little Asian fusion, head to this trendy, 2nd-storey spot that offers excellent views of the main drag (ideal at sunset). Here you’ll find everything from sushi to Thai curries to Indian samosas stuffed full of veggies. Arrive early in the evening for wallet-friendly two-for-one beer specials.
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Playa Cocles
Playa Cocles has impressive waves for surfers who aren't so keen to break skin and bones on nearby Salsa Brava (Costa Rica's biggest break). It has lefts and rights, which both break close to the steep beach. Conditions are usually best from December to March, and early in the day before the wind picks up.
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Lechería Las Lapas
For a more traditional helado, Lechería Las Lapas is in a little kiosk fronting the beach, near the bus stop. The creamy, cool stuff comes in a wide variety of tropical flavors (the macadamia nut is highly recommended), and there is also arroz con leche (rice pudding).
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Soda Miss Sam
If you can't get enough of the Caribbean flavors, Soda Miss Sam and Miss Lidia's Place are the local favorites for gallo pinto and spicy coconut sauce. Both ladies have been around for years, pleasing the palates and satisfying the stomachs of locals and tourists alike.
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Miss Lidia's Place
If you can't get enough of the Caribbean flavors, Miss Lidia's Place is one of the local favorites for gallo pinto and spicy coconut sauce. This lady has been around for years, pleasing the palates and satisfying the stomachs of locals and tourists alike.
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Bread & Chocolate
This cafe invites early risers to sit on the spacious, covered porch, sip fresh-brewed coffee and chill. Favorites include old-school oatmeal, fluffy omelets and crunchy granola and yogurt.
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Pan Pay
This popular beachside spot is excellent for strong coffee, fresh baked goods and hearty wedges of fluffy Spanish omelet served with crisp tomato-bread. There are sandwiches and other light meals, but it’s thoughts of their flaky chocolate croissants that make us want to jump out of bed in the morning.
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EZ-Times
The reggae music and groovy vibe lure in hungry beach bums for pizza, pasta and salads. The outdoor terrace is a good place to sit back and enjoy the munchies, not to mention the live music on Friday nights.
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Aventuras Bravas
With offices in town and at Rocking J’s hostel, this company works largely as a booking agent arranging almost every tour imaginable. Popular activities include kayak trips (US$25), rafting excursions (US$75) and canopy tours (US$55).
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Soda Tamara
With its signature red, green and yellow paint job, this is a popular spot to grab breakfast and watch the village wake up. During the day seafood is the specialty, but don’t miss out on the moist coconut bread. Yum!
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Café Hot Rocks
In a big red tent in the center of town, this place shows fine flicks for free most evenings and also hosts live (and often new) calypso, reggae and rock bands. Recommended for fun, not for food.
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Restaurant Salsa Brava
This recommended hot spot specializes in fresh seafood and open-grill cooking. The ever-popular ‘juice joint’ is an oasis for thirsty beachcombers and the sangría is refreshingly good, too.
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