Estación Astronómica Muisca (El Infiernito)

The Estación Astronómica Muisca (El Infiernito) dates from the early centuries AD and, like a sort of Stonehenge, was used by the Indians to determine the seasons. The site contains 30-odd cylindrical stone monoliths sunk vertically into the ground about 1m from each other in two parallel lines 9m apart.

By measuring the length of shadows cast by the stones, the Indians were able to identify the planting seasons. The complete lack of shadow (corresponding to the sun's zenith), which occurred for a short instant twice a year, on a day in March and September, is thought to have been the time for great festivities.

The observatory was also a ritual site, a fact that got in the way of Spanish plans to lure the Indians into church. To prevent the Indians from going to the site, the Spanish renamed it El Infiernito (The Little Hell) and promoted its association with the devil. It's still widely known as El Infiernito, but locals appreciate the reference to the Muisca Observatory.

The site is 8km from Villa de Leyva, 2km north of El Fósil. There's no public transport, but you can walk there from the fossil in 25 minutes. Bicycle, horse and taxi are other possible means of transport. A return taxi trip (for up to four people) from Villa de Leyva to El Fósil, El Infiernito and Ecce Homo will cost about around US$20, including waits allowing for visiting the three sights.